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Discussion Starter #1
I cleaned my oil overed engine to track down the leak. It seems to be aroung the oil filter. How tight should the oil filter be? Any torque specs? This seeems to have happened before but it seems that I have it rather tight.
 

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some cars exhibit a leak from the oil filter adapter.

and , some filters are subject to a failure whereby the filter's seal bunches-up or wrinkles when installed. Might be worse on inexpensive aftermarket units, and maybe worse if over-tightened.
 

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If this is an H6 or a turbo it could be the oil cooler under the filter that's leaking.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
no it is a 07 2.5 non turbo. seems to be around the filter. I start by hand tight then a 1/4 twist with a wrench. if there is a leak i will go a 1/4 at a time.
 

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Sometimes a rubber ring from the old filter sticks to the engine, not the filter when removing. You should pull off the current filter and check the sealing surface.
 

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Every spin on filter I have installed I never used a wrench on, I spin it on until the gasket makes contact and then spin it by hand for an additional 3/4 turn.


The only time I have ever seen a filter leak around the base is where someone didn't notice that the previous filter left it's gasket on the mount when they removed it and spun a new filter over the top of it resulting in having two gaskets and they never seals like that
 

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Could be an external head gasket leak. Does the oil pool on the bottom of the filter? That is what happened on my friend's 07 Outback.
 

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Ditto what Cobalt said in post #6. Turn the filter about 3/4 turn beyond the point where it appears the gasket has just barely contacted the flat surface of the block. If the old rubber gasket wasn't left on the block, the 3/4 turn should be fine.

The Subaru filter instructions say to turn the filter 7/8 inch. That works, but sometimes the filter case bottoms out on the engine block before 7/8 turn is reached -- it depends on how well the "first contact" of the gasket is identified. But certainly hand tight, and no use of a wrench. Also, be sure to put some oil on the gasket mating surface before installing the filter.

One question: What filter are you using, Subaru or an aftermarket brand?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I am using a fram extra gaurd. yes it has a drip on the bottom of the filter and oil flowing towards the back on the engine
 

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I am using a fram extra gaurd. yes it has a drip on the bottom of the filter and oil flowing towards the back on the engine
There's your problem. I've never heard one good thing about anything made by fram. I try to use Purolator PureOne filters with the oxidized coating outside for a good grip, or a good K&N/Bosch when the store is out of them. It's worth the extra $4 in my opinion. The filter you have probably has a defective gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I think u may be right as this seems to be a common occurance with fram. It was always so tempting to get the free fram filter with the synthetic oil. every other oil change i forget about the leakey fram
 

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I think u may be right as this seems to be a common occurance with fram. It was always so tempting to get the free fram filter with the synthetic oil. every other oil change i forget about the leakey fram
When you change it, make sure there is not an extra gasket stuck up on the flange. That is the most common cause of oil filter leaks......And Frams are more likely to leave a gasket behind than most.
 

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And Frams are more likely to leave a gasket behind than most.
Stats on this?

Many filter makes use a rectangular (square) cut gasket. This type of gasket should not be overtightened. When it is compressed too much while tightening, it can deform, which can leave tiny gaps that can leak when under the pressure that's built up behind them. Moreover, the square cut, regardless of the make, is prone to attaching itself to the block when the filter is removed if the filter was installed without first oiling the surface of the gasket, and if the filter was left in place for an unusually long time, facilitating the rubber bonding to the engine block.

The 3/4 turn by hand after first contact that was mentioned earlier is usually sufficient -- snug, for all filters, but not (never) tightened down with a wrench.
 

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Stats on this?

Many filter makes use a rectangular (square) cut gasket. This type of gasket should not be overtightened. When it is compressed too much while tightening, it can deform, which can leave tiny gaps that can leak when under the pressure that's built up behind them. Moreover, the square cut, regardless of the make, is prone to attaching itself to the block when the filter is removed if the filter was installed without first oiling the surface of the gasket, and if the filter was left in place for an unusually long time, facilitating the rubber bonding to the engine block.

The 3/4 turn by hand after first contact that was mentioned earlier is usually sufficient -- snug, for all filters, but not (never) tightened down with a wrench.
Dito.

Wix makes a really good filter for Subarus. Filtration is excellent. I've never had an issue with them. I use them for the engine and transmission.

And yeah, Fram suks.
 

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Dito.

Wix makes a really good filter for Subarus. Filtration is excellent. I've never had an issue with them. I use them for the engine and transmission.

And yeah, Fram suks.
I've dismantled a number of different engine oil filters, and found the Wix to be unique. It uses a top-side bypass valve (others have the valve at the back end, opposite the end that attaches to the engine). In the Wixes I examined, I found that the bypass valve took up relatively more space, and the filter media was significantly smaller in area than others, but assume that's compensated by the filter material itself. My findings were reported in http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...-oil-filters-only.html?highlight=scale+bypass, beginning around post 36.

One thing that has changed since those experiments is that Wix has recently come out with an engine oil filter for the Subaru H4 that has meets Subaru's higher, 23 psi by-pass valve spec. (Most other aftermarket engine oil filters have by-pass valves that open at far lower psi.)

In regard to the transmission, I haven't found an aftermarket that is in any way similar to the genuine Subaru AT filter. See: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...762-subaru-transmission-filter-different.html.

Always appreciate your take on things, so this isn't meant to be a disagreement, but I really wonder why Fram is constantly vilified when there doesn't seem to be any evidence of the products being inferior to others.
 

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With Fram, its mostly sealing characteristics. In the past, I saw a lot with poor seals. Had thought about trying them in the last few years, but with posted issues, I left it in the rearview.
 

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With Fram, its mostly sealing characteristics. In the past, I saw a lot with poor seals. Had thought about trying them in the last few years, but with posted issues, I left it in the rearview.
I don't imagine the Frams are 100% perfect 100% of the time, but I'm sure neither are the others. Manufacturing, especially where the production numbers are very high, isn't foolproof.

Talking about leaks, some years ago, SOA was using Purolator-made filters and guess what -- they had a run of leaky units. (The problem was at the folded seam between the can and the mounting base. In more than one instance, Subaru apparently ended up replacing an engine.) But posts here, and elsewhere, don't say that as a result of that, Purolator filters aren't good. I guess we all have our own way of interpreting things, and of applying our experiences.
 

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I use NAPA oil filters, air filters, cabin air filters, etc.etc. for years without any problems whatsoever.
 

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I agree it may be an external HG leak. While mine is worse now, that is the general area mine started leaking oil a few years ago. It drips down around the oil filter so it makes it look like the oil filter is the cause. Wipe everything off and check it daily very carefully, you may find the oil source is either the HG seam, or maybe in front from the timing cover area (maybe the cam seal if so) and blowing backwards at freeway speeds.

Also, while Fram isn't an internet favorite, I've used it for years without issues. My parents have a 2005 Legacy and I've used Fram on it many times without any leak issues, so don't automatically blame the filter. In fact, one plus with Fram is that it flows well, so it delivers oil quicker to the engine on cold starts. You can read about this on some old bobistheoilguy.com postings where someone did a very elaborate test.
 

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Stats on this?

Many filter makes use a rectangular (square) cut gasket. This type of gasket should not be overtightened. When it is compressed too much while tightening, it can deform, which can leave tiny gaps that can leak when under the pressure that's built up behind them. Moreover, the square cut, regardless of the make, is prone to attaching itself to the block when the filter is removed if the filter was installed without first oiling the surface of the gasket, and if the filter was left in place for an unusually long time, facilitating the rubber bonding to the engine block.

The 3/4 turn by hand after first contact that was mentioned earlier is usually sufficient -- snug, for all filters, but not (never) tightened down with a wrench.
Only anecdotal. Fram does use the more likely to stick square seals, and those seals are not as firmly attached to the filter as the O ring type.

I have seen a good number of fram seals stuck to the block. Not on any of my vehicles, because I will not use them. I do not recall ever seeing another brand of filter with the seal left behind. I am using the OEM filters so far on the Subie, which I believe are manufactured by fram......But they have the O ring type seal, and (I hope) better specifications required by Subaru.

I have seen, exactly once in my long life, a Wix filter with a cracked flange. It leaked very slightly when I checked for leaks after a oil/filter change. Crack was barely visible when I removed the filter, and it was one of two manufacturer defects I have seen in an oil filter. The other was a fram that the drain back valve failed to function, and it took 5+ seconds to get oil pressure on startup.
 
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