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2005 Outback 2.5i - 5 speed - 191K
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Discussion Starter #1
I have a oil leak that is progressively getting worse. I have had it since I bought the car and the previous owner disclosed it to me.

As it gets worse I have simply added oil as required however it is becoming a PITA

This questions would be the same asked if I had to replace the clutch.

Is it easier to remove the engine to get to the flywheel to fix the oil leak or lower the 5MT tranny to get to the oil leak?

I can do either, I am just looking for the path of least resistance.

I plan to do this job in the spring with the warmer weather. I figure it will take me 3 days since the car will be on jack stands and I will do the job by myself. I have a transmission jack and two floor jacks.

Thanks for any advice and stories from other that have traveled this path.
 

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2005 Outback 2.5i - 5 speed - 191K
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276 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Interesting. I have seen all the videos on timing belt replacement and they simply push the AC, PS and other parasitic attachments to the side. Is it the same for engine removal?? Id rather NOT have to discharge the AC first or drain the PS.

Any good links for engine removal? Guess I will search YouTube over the holidays.
 

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Lawn ornament XT
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14,366 Posts
Interesting. I have seen all the videos on timing belt replacement and they simply push the AC, PS and other parasitic attachments to the side. Is it the same for engine removal?? Id rather NOT have to discharge the AC first or drain the PS.

Any good links for engine removal? Guess I will search YouTube over the holidays.
I'm not positive you can get away without draining PS, but that might just be for some years. I recall that not all use remote reservoirs.

The AC has enough reach and flex in the hoses that you can just detach the compressor and shove it out of the way, all years, all models.

Most of the reason it's easier with the hoist is that they did a good job making it easy to go on the hoist- so you can do much of the project standing up. You'll want to rig a temporary hood stay to hold it up higher than normal when the hoist comes in, and make sure you check your lift ranges ahead of time to be certain you can clear over once it's swinging free.

When you use the jack underneath, almost 100% of the job is flat on your back on the cold hard ground and it's just such a slowdown when you need another tool. Especially true once the trans is out of the way and you're trying to spot what leaked.
 

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03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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many soobs seem to have an alternate hood prop location - it 'may' be enough to clear for engine removal; I used it on my WRX when I pulled my intercooler. And my 03 has a hole in the shock tower for alternate prop use. On some cars I think you invert the prop ????;








 

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2005 Outback 2.5i - 5 speed - 191K
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276 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
So, push AC aside, maybe push PS aside, remove fuel rails, electric harnesses, intake and a few smaller items I'm sure. Get engine hoist, detach from tranny and lift out. Guessing I'll need to remove radiator too. Missing anything?
 

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2005 Outback 2.5i - 5 speed - 191K
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Discussion Starter #7
If it isn't the rear main seal, it will be one of the two smaller covers. Any tricks with them? Do they have gaskets or am I using sealant? I want to fix this and not have to do it again.
 

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Lawn ornament XT
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I don't think you need to pop the fuel rails or the intake- if anything that's extra work.. All the electrical connections on all the sensors all go to each other or the master engine harness connector that pops off in one mighty thunk. No need to go disconnecting all those gizmos.

I recall you'd need a set of the modern style fuel line disconnect tools to separate the engine fuel lines from the body lines at the regulator.

Yes, radiator & battery come out early in the process to give you some working space.
 

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2005 Outback 2.5i - 5 speed - 191K
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Discussion Starter #9
Does anyone have a red neck engineered tool to keep the flywheel stationary while torquing the flywheel bolts?
 

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2003 OBW 2.5L 4EAT
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Does anyone have a red neck engineered tool to keep the flywheel stationary while torquing the flywheel bolts?
Put a breaker bar with a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt to hold the crankshaft while torquing the flywheel bolts.
 

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2009 Subaru Outback 2.5i
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Yup...I agree with what has already been stated here. If doing the work on a driveway, I think it would be easier to pull the engine from the top via a hoist than to drop the trans from the bottom. If you had access to a lift and trans jack maybe a different story...

But yeah...no need to disconnect the P/S or A/C systems. When I pulled the EJ253 in my '09 PBW 2.5i, I just unbolted the A/C compressor and P/S pump with the hoses still connected and moved them out of the way when it was time to pull the engine up. Of course, aside from the engine harness, fuel lines, etc you'll also need to pull the radiator to make room at the front of the engine bay since in order for the engine to come off the dowels and clear the studs, it'll have to come forward a bit.
Also, with an engine balance bar on the hoist, and attaching it as close as possible to the top of the engine, I was able to get it out and back in with the hood at the standard height of the prop rod. Overall, relatively easy. Good luck!
 

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2005 OBXT Limited, VF37, STI intake, 5MT
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FWIW, it's ALWAYS easier to pull the engine (unless you're doing trans work).

Pull the rad

Unbolt the PS pump BRACKET (leaving the PS pump attached to the bracket) and throw over to the empty air box area (pull the half air box and intake piping).

unbolt the ENTIRE alternator/compressor BRACKET assembly. Trying to pull the compressor bolts while the bracket is still mounted is a PITA. Bungee cord compressor to battery well.

Reattach the alt/compressor bracket (as this is an engine lift point).

Disconnect the fuel lines (you can probably undo the connection at the fuel damper on the firewall). At the intake, you will need a plastic quick-disconnect tool for 5/16" fuel lines.

Heater hoses

Starter (leave the cables connected, it will move around enough)

unbolt pitch stop from trans

unbolt exhaust manifold from heads (but leave attached to rest of exhaust system)

unbolt grounding straps to cylinder heads

unplug O2 sensors by passenger side head

unplug main harness plug

6 bolts, 2 nuts for engine connection

Support trans while lifting engine. This will make it easier to remove/install engine.

You can leave the intake attached, no need to disturb it.
 

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2005 Outback 2.5i - 5 speed - 191K
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Discussion Starter #13
Huge thanks for the steps. I am looking at YouTube videos with identical or proximate instructions. I am looking at them over and over in spare time.

Gonna try to get this done before it gets too cold here in Philly but cant start until I get the Differential Bushings replaced. Having a fit removing them and will probably burn them out tomorrow. HOPING and PRAYING the Whitelines install easier!!!
 

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1999 30th Anniversary Legacy Outback DOHC 2.5L 4EAT, 2008 Impreza WRX 2.5L 5MT, 2008 Impreza Wagon 2.5L 4EAT
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Here is one way to lock the engine to remove crank bolt



This is where it is likely leaking oil (or it could be the piston pin access port (left side) or the rear main seal



Get a metal Oil Separator plate if yours is plastic. Seal it with Fuji Bond (Three bond) cheaper from Nissan Dealer

New Style Oil Separator Plate

 

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2005 OBXT Limited, VF37, STI intake, 5MT
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Like miker said, swap the plastic for metal. However, if you swap, you WILL need the new, matching screws. Some dealers won't tell you this and it won't seal up correctly.

But chances are, you have a metal plate already; they stopped using the plastic one some time in 2001, IIRC.
 

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2005 Outback 2.5i - 5 speed - 191K
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Discussion Starter #16
Here is one way to lock the engine to remove crank bolt

This is where it is likely leaking oil (or it could be the piston pin access port (left side) or the rear main seal

Get a metal Oil Separator plate if yours is plastic. Seal it with Fuji Bond (Three bond) cheaper from Nissan Dealer

New Style Oil Separator Plate
NOW THAT IS WHAT I AM TALKING ABOUT!!! Those are the two images I was seeking. I am fairly sure mine is leaking from the same location. It is a 2005 engine so I am sure it has the metal plate. I just need to get it out now.

The screwdriver to stop the crank is perfect. The engine will be hanging from the engine hoist to simply holding the crank bolt will be awkward. This is the exact info I needed!!
 
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