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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am no good at these types of write-ups, but here is my best shot. I posted a video link at the bottom. I didn't actually film the assembly, just the completed product. I didnt think about making it at the time. Sorry about that.

Here is the material you will need for the install...
28mm Prosport water hose adapter
⅛ BSPT male to 4AN male adapter
⅛ NPT female to 4AN male adapter
Stainless steel turbo oil tee w/ 1-⅛ BSPT port, and 2 - ⅛ NPT port
6-foot 4AN stainless steel braided oil hose w/steel (not aluminum) ends
⅜ inch diameter plastic conduit
Package of plastic tie wraps
Roll of 14 gauge wire
Package of male and female blade connectors, and crimper tool
Electrical tape

I chose these gauges and pod...
1 Prosport JDM oil pressure gauge
1 Prosport JDM water temperature gauge
1 Prosport JDM voltmeter gauge
Ortiz Customs triple gauge pod

Assemble the oil turbo tee with the factory sender at the top, which should be the ⅛ BSPT fitting. Place the provided gauge sensor in the side port, which should ⅛ NPT. Screw the "⅛ NPT female/4AN male" adapter in the bottom port. Make sure to use some teflon tape on the pipe threads, but not the 4AN threads. When you complete this step, you should have this...

496127


I added the "L" adapter on the gauge sensor but it isnt necessary.

Screw the "⅛ BSPT male/4AN male"adapter to the one end of the 6ft steel-braided hose. You want to use steel-braided with steel ends, because it eliminates the need for a seperate ground on the sensor. It will ground through the braid to the block.

Remove the factory oil pressure sensor wire and sensor. Add some gasket sealer to the ⅛ BSPT threads of the adapter, and then screw the adapter with the attached hose into the oil pressure sender port. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO OVERTIGHTEN AS THIS WILL CRACK THE BLOCK! I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH! It should look like this...

496128


Run the hose up the the side of the engine towards the firewall. Attach the sensor assembly to the other end of the hose.

Measure the amount of 14 gauge wire you will need, cut and strip the ends, and crimp a male and a female blade connector on the ends.

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Attach the male end of the wire to the female end of the factory sensor connector...

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...and the female end to the factory sensor on the sensor assembly.

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Cover the entire wire, including the connector, with plastic conduit, and wrap in electrical tape. I used small ties wraps to secure the ends and at various points on the conduit to secure the tape. Use tie wraps to secure the cable and hose to the vehicle. Leave a little slack to allow for engine movement. Make sure you put electrical tape on areas of the stainless hose that will contact anything metal, or rubber on the vehicle to prevent chaffing.

496135


Run the wiring for the gauges through the holes at the base of the A-pillar down to the bottom of the dash, and though one of the holes in the firewall to the engine compartment. Route the gauge oil pressure sensor wire to the gauge sensor in the sensor assembly, cover with conduit and tape. Secure the entire assembly with tie wraps to the vehicle, and double check all your connections.

When you're finished, it should look something like this...

496141


For the water temperature sender, it is pretty straight forward. Splice in the 28mm adapter onto the passenger side return water hose at a point closest to the block. Add sealer or teflon tape to the provided gauge sensor, and screw it into the adapter, being careful not to overtighten. Run your sensor wire to the sensor along the firewall, then down the passenger side of the compartment towards the front and connect it to the sensor. Cover in conduit and tape.

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The voltmeter gauge only needs power. There are no sensors.

Wire the gauges' power and ground wires as per the instructions that come with the gauges you decide to use. Run the power wire for the all three gauges to the fuse box with a fused connection to an "always on" fuse port. There is a seperate wire from the gauges for "ignition power".

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I hope this helps, and if there is anything I missed, or if you have any questions, or need an additional photo, please let me know. I will try to answer any questions you may have and I will edit the post. For what it's worth, here is the video link I promised.


It shows the wiring completed, and a gauge demo.
 

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nice work, I never thought to relocate the factory sensor the way you did, rather than fiddle with the tap at the block; brilliant!

now where are the pics of the triple pod and gauges themselves?!
 

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'17 OB 3.6 , '11 OB 2.5 , '11 Legacy 2.5
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Nice job, thanks for this :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I hope you all find it useful. Send me a note if you need any other info, or photos. I will be posting a short video soon of the finished product. Thanks guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I posted the video link at the bottom of the original post. I hope it helps.
 

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2020 Onyx
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I don't know how I missed this the first time around - fantastic!
 
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2017 Outback Premium 2.5 with Eyesight. 19mm Rear Sway Bar. Steering Dampener Lock Down. HID upgrade from retrofit source.
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I like your approach. I'm planning an oil pressure gauge install on my 2017. I know I don't need the information, but I like having it.
Instead of relocating the factory sensor, I elected to order an oil filter sandwich adapter from Toyota with two holes for sensors. I also have prosport gauges (pressure and temperature). Didn't want to run a single gauge. Had to run an NPT tap through the adapter sensor threads to open them up a little. I’m pretty sure they were already NPT as the pitch was the same, but they were too narrow. The consensus online wasn't 100% on what type of threads they were, but the sensors fit with no issue now. I'm waiting on a custom enclosure from Ortiz as well. Utilizing the center dash speaker grille since I don't have a speaker there and it's wasted space. Once it comes in, I'll be able to install the gauges.
 

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2017 Outback Premium 2.5 with Eyesight. 19mm Rear Sway Bar. Steering Dampener Lock Down. HID upgrade from retrofit source.
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Please include photos if possible!
I’ll post some when the gauge enclosure arrives. It was mailed out yesterday, but delivery to APO addresses is pretty slow. I expect a week or two in transit. Hoping it doesn’t get damaged. Overseas mail isn’t always handled the best.
 

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2017 Outback Premium 2.5 with Eyesight. 19mm Rear Sway Bar. Steering Dampener Lock Down. HID upgrade from retrofit source.
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So, my Ortiz center grille pod came in a few days ago. The quality is great, but there are several reasons it won't work for me. During the creation process, the grille was formed and hardened into a shape that included a slight curve so that it would not fit into the dash. I also didn't like the angle for the gauges. They would have been aimed 30-degrees up. I don't want to knock Ortiz though. I have worked with them in the past and I love their products. I wouldn't hesitate to be more specific in what I wanted and order from them again if I were stateside. I didn't want to wait another 2 months though to receive my pod. (1 month to create and ship to an address stateside, and another month to ship to an APO in Korea). Getting the OEM factory grille to their shop was a hassle for me as well, as many Subaru parts dealers won't ship to a location that isn't your billing address (This was a problem for me because my billing address is also an APO. I don't know if this would be a problem for anyone else). I decided to hack my grille and try it myself.

IMG_7914.jpg
I mocked up what I thought would work with the supplied pods from Prosport. I didn't want the base of the mounts to be visible, so I figured I could cut a few holes and pass the mounts through the grille.

IMG_7915.jpg

The mounts fit below the grille by removing some of the material on the underside. I bolted them to the gauge cups and used adhesive to secure them in place. When installed in the car, the base of the gauge mounts sit on the structure of the dash, adding support. I ran the two sensor wires from the oil filter sandwich adapter, through where the main engine harness goes through the firewall. I elected to make two holes in the grommet rather than attempt to pass the wires through the existing hole. I made them slightly smaller than the wire so it would be a watertight fit. The filter sandwich adapter required an NPT tap through the sensor holes for the Prosport sensors, but that was really no issue. The sensors fit great. The filter adapter is a Toyota TRD part, MS131-18001.

IMG_7945.jpg IMG_7946.jpg

All of the wiring for the gauges could be a separate write up. The gauges require accessory power, which I tapped from the factory radio. I have a pigtail there that adds an Alpine powerpack to upgraded speakers, so I didn't have to cut the factory wiring or use vamp-taps. I got accessory power and ground from the radio and ran an always hot constant 12v source from the fusebox (stop lamp fuse, I believe). The last 12v source is optional, but to dim the gauges, you need another switched 12v source. I tapped this from the cigar fuse, ran it through the A-pillar to an on-off switch, and back to the gauges. I didn't want to have to reach very far to dim the gauges. I thought about tapping a separate illumination source somewhere, but none of them would work after testing them out. (What they did varied on headlight settings and the light sensor in the dash. Even with relays, it wouldn't work in all scenarios). I put the switch in the overhead console next to the microphone. Nice and out of the way.
IMG_7943.jpg
The last step was to hook up the gauges and see if they worked.
IMG_7939.jpg
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IMG_7947.jpg
So far, so good. It doesn't look too bad and they work as advertised. The temperature gauge reads differently than the factory display in the head unit, but I expect that is because of sensor placement. I'm not concerned about it. The reading at the oil filter is about 6 degrees off when the car is fully warmed up, and varies when warming up. The wires behind the gauges are hardly noticeable. I haven't run the car yet at night, and I expect there will be some reflection on the windscreen, but it is confined to an area that is right from where I look. If it is too bad, I'll add the supplied gauge visors, with a little modification because they won't currently fit between the gauge and the speaker grille.
 

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2020 Onyx
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Seems lucky that the Gen 5 doesn't have that eyebrow dash display.
 

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2017 Outback Premium 2.5 with Eyesight. 19mm Rear Sway Bar. Steering Dampener Lock Down. HID upgrade from retrofit source.
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Seems lucky that the Gen 5 doesn't have that eyebrow dash display.
I’m not very familiar with the gen 6 center dash. Does the eyebrow raise up significantly?
The reflection on the windshield is tolerable at night. I wish the dim setting on the prosport gauges was a more significant reduction in light output, but overall, am happy with how the project turned out.
 

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I was referring to the Gen 4 Outback dash, but also my 2011 WRX dash.

 
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