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Legacy wagon 2009 - 2.5l
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My dashboard indicates the hatch is open when it's closed. It's causing me issues with the built-in alarm system which trigger by itself because it "thinks" the hatch is getting open while the alarm is activated.

Subaru dealer told me I had to replace the hatch actuator. I have plugged the 2 wires to the actuator and I can confim the open/close signal is not coming from the actuator. Unplugging the wires to the rear wiper motor, would remove the open/close indicator in the dash.

How is the open/close hatch activated? Is it a mercury bubble or something, there's does not seems to be a press switch.

Which part do i have to replace?

Is there a way to the doors without activating the alarm system?

Many thanks!

Legacy wagon 2009 - 2.5L
 

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Legacy wagon 2009 - 2.5l
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
oops, i mean I have "UNplugged" the 2 wires from the actuator and confirmed the open/close signal is not coming from the actuator.
 

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I have plugged the 2 wires to the actuator and I can confim the open/close signal is not coming from the actuator. Unplugging the wires to the rear wiper motor, would remove the open/close indicator in the dash.
It's not the actuator circuit that is involved here, at least not be design. The actuator is only to lock or unlock the rear gate handle. The actuator has a separate connector on the latch mechanism -- there's two connectors, each with two wires.

What you're really dealing with is the interior light system. When the rear gate latch is NOT fully locked, a switch in the latch closes, turning on the cargo area light (if that light's control is set to turn the light on when the door is opened). The same "low" signal goes to the body integrated unit, which turns on the "door open" indicator in the instrument panel, and signals the security and keyless entry system that the rear hatch isn't fully closed.

So, first, which 2 wires did you unplug, and how did you confirm that the signal is not coming from the actuator?

I'd start by disconnecting both connectors at the latch mechanism (so you know both the actuator and light circuit are disconnected) and see if the door open light goes out.

Also, check all the other functions in the rear gate. For example, do the back-up lights work? Does the rear wiper work and properly park itself when turned off?

The fact that the door open light goes out when the wiper motor connector is removed suggests there's a possible short between the related wires. It's not unknown. There's two rubber boots between the car body and the rear gate. Wires go through these boots, the one on the right carrying most. There have been cases of the wires breaking inside the boots, leading to problems with the electrical functions in the rear gates, and even shorts between the broken wires.

If you disconnect both the two-wire connectors at the rear gate's latch mechanism inside the door at the bottom, and the door open light stays on, it means that the circuit is grounded, or near so, and it could well be a broken wire contacting another that is grounded, directly or indirectly.

Here's just a few examples:

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/80-electrical-electronics/43323-backup-light-not-working.html

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...wiper-does-not-return-park-home-position.html

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...brake-light-license-lights-out-most-time.html

Sounds as if you have access to the inside of the rear gate, so check things out and let us know what you find. I doubt the problem is elsewhere, but can't say absolutely. But let's eliminate the relatively easy stuff first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for your detailed reply.

All lights works properly.
Rear wiper works also properly.
Since I have unplugged/plugged the 3 wires (2 at the actuator, 1 at the rear wiper), the dashboard rear door indicator never lights up (even when the rear door is open). All wires within the rear gate "looks" ok and "protected".

For now, the situation is fine since the alarm never triggers but the issue is not fixed.

So from your reply, I should check for a grounded wire within the rear gate?

Thanks!
 

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Attached is a diagram of the rear gate latch mechanism. There's two connectors, one for the lock actuator, the other for the door switch. The door switch connector is related to the "door open" warning light in the instrument panel.

Remove the connector for the door switch (but leave the wiper motor connected). With the connector removed, does the warning light come on when the door is open? When it's closed?

Now, place a wire jumper between the two pins of the connector on the harness; does the warning light come on?

If the light remains off when the connector is removed, but comes on when the jumper is installed, the next step is to close the rear gate and measure the resistance between the two pins of the door switch connector on the latch mechanism (not the two pins on the wiring harness connector). With the door closed, there should be no continuity (open circuit),and with the door open, there should be.
 

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Legacy wagon 2009 - 2.5l
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Situation was fine for a while, but now the hatch handle will not open the hatch (like nothing happening at the actuator (no sound when unlocking doors)), I have no more tail lights (fuse always blows(#14) when I turn on the lights), sometimes the instrument panel indicates the hatch is open when it is not and sometimes the back "interior door light (ceiling)" flash when I hit a bump on the road.
Back wiper, brake lights and back lights works fine.
I shaked the rubber hatch boots to see if there was an obvious short, I could not see any different behavior.
My problem seems related to a short. What would be the obvious things to check? Would somebody have a wiring diagram for the tail lights for the 2009 2.5 Outback?
Thanks,
 

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Onyx, 2008 LL Bean 3.0R and 2017 Honda Civic Hatchback Sport Touring
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I had a similar problem and it was mechanical rather than electrical. The clasp(?) deal-ee-oh that holds the latch closed was slightly bent and when the hatch did close it was a bear to reopen. Some disassembley, tweaking with vice grips and finally removing some of the plastic on the clasp end allowed the hatch to operate normally. No more indicator, overhead light, or alarm problems.

One last "Doh!" question. Do you have a cargo mat, and is it clear of the floor area where the hatch closes?
 

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I shaked the rubber hatch boots to see if there was an obvious short, I could not see any different behavior.
While there can always be more than one cause of particular symptom, your experience certainly matches the "broken wires in the rear gate boot". I'd say that unless you have absolutely no doubt there are no broken wires in the boot, I wouldn't jump too quickly to discount this.

If the wires to the rear gate are broken inside the "bundle" of wires that goes through the boot, shaking the boot might not reveal it. The only/best way seems to be to expose the ends of the bundle and pull on the wires one-by-one at each end to see if any come out. I believe this was mentioned in the linked threads above, and in the links some of those threads contain.

Another approach would be to remove the right side trim in the rear cargo area, and access the connector that links the body wiring harness to the rear hatch wire harness. Then check for continuity and shorts between the pins on the end of the hatch harness and the individual items they are supposed to connect to in the rear hatch.
 
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