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2005 Outback 3.0R VDC/VTD/LSD 5eat , 2.8'' lift
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Discussion Starter #61
Could get openport for 30-50 euros here, so maybe its worth it . But i need win xp for flashing as i understood yes? All other romraider , freessm works on win xp too or they need newer windows like 7? I have old laptop that i could put win xp no problem or make it win xp and win 7 dual os if needed i think.
 

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Discussion Starter #62 (Edited)
hmm what if test it this way.. lol
no but seriously @cardoc wheree you said cut hole before front O2 sensor ? like in tube yes ?
\
about that cheap openport 2.0 cable those cheap ones comes from alixpress , so maybe those not wirth it even to try, as they said are older revision E versus original H and you cannot update them , cannot connect pc to internet while using that cable. wonder if you need newest update on that openport to do stuff on car and could you still do this all with older revision and offline. as i understood those people who tuning online needs it to be online or not neccesary.
 

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2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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That's one way to clean a cat.

The front AF sensors need to have clean exhaust from the engine in order for the ECM to run closed loop fueling. After the sensor you can run it "open" and ignore the cat code that will come up. The intent is to see if the bogging goes away and the engine performance changes with the removal of restrictions.
 

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Discussion Starter #64 (Edited)
@cardoc so like cut large whole between those sensors after first one in catalyst itself? How large it must be? Can i just drill hole ? 10mm size , 12mm ? Too small to make any impact ?
If MOT inspection later will find hole in it welded it will think i removed catalyst and its illegal kinda.

Other thing why cyl 4 missfire wad coming i think on cyl 2 and 4 coils i had like loose plugs they where like coming little off with driving they cant lock there anymore so they just come off with little push , so i fixed them now with cable ties there and since then cyl 4 missfire wont come up anymore but cyl 2 coming up still. I tied both cyl 2 and 4 coil plugs so they both must be same .
That extra cable that goes to lpg i tried disconnect it same thing so its not that cable makes problems, i hope.
Could that cable be like damaged in the way, hmm but testing those didint showed any resistance there , so its not like shorted then.
What if its still cable problem but how to find it or changed it maybe. If those coils dont have those lock for plug how else to secure them then

Does that maf looks ok there? Its dusty somehow but air filter is fine se where thats coming from?
 

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I can't find this on eBay UK or Germany, but it's all over the N America site.


A small hole will allow for a small amount of exhaust to escape. A large hole will allow for a large mass of exhaust to escape. It's up to you really. Because of where the front AF sensor is mounted in the pipe at the catalytic converter any hole is going to be close to either greatly affecting the AF sensor feedback or cutting in to the substrate of the converter.
If you have a sensor bung lying around you could transplant the AF sensor closer to the engine and that would allow for easier work with putting an exit in the pipe and repairing it later. Or, you could just leave the old sensor position open and then plug it after testing.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Yh plugs are fine locks on coils broken so that unfixiable problem kinda without just chaning coil
Will try use one extra coil i have with lock on that cyl 2.
 

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Does that maf looks ok there? Its dusty somehow but air filter is fine se where thats coming from?
The bulb on the side is the intake air temperature sensor. The MAF sensor element is inside the plastic tube.
485818

That dust looks like the dust the car was kicking up on the dirt trail tests. The MAF sensor itself could be coated, which would affect its measuring accuracy.

Are you sure there's no cracks or holes in the intake duct, and that the resonator chamber below the air filter case is in place? Also, check that the air filter is the correct one, and is fitting properly inside between the two halves of the "clam-shell" housing. A small gap could allow the fine dust to bypass the filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Well i think my intake is not cracked as much as i took it apart last time today, so i guess its ok.
That mud was from last trip i did with forester club and i was ok for their mud water holes there.
Still after all this changing stuff my cyl 2 missfire comes up still when i do high revs. Thats still there just on petrol and this car was not bought to drive just on petrol. Its too much too expencive. in last week i spend just too much to flooring and driving on petrol only. Thats not how i want to keep the car
Air filther is cheaper one but yes its made for this model. I took it apart just today like 3 times.
As for now i can hear from my cut exhaust how engine is doing is it ok or not. Its not ok on idle car standing in P is not ok thete. Vibrating thats not normal and even more vibrations when stoping on D . That was not happening before i made this thread or before i put that injector cleaner onto petrol. So now its worse working the it was before i started injectors and coils changing places. Now its worse then it ever been on me.
My 2001 vdc on 2.5 was just ok car on engine side just it was rusty. Why i payed here like 3x more for this. Shet. Cant do any overlanding or just driving in it . Its not usable for now.
 

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Well i think my intake is not cracked as much as i took it apart last time today, so i guess its ok.
That mud was from last trip i did with forester club and i was ok for their mud water holes there.
Still after all this changing stuff my cyl 2 missfire comes up still when i do high revs. Thats still there just on petrol and this car was not bought to drive just on petrol. Its too much too expencive. in last week i spend just too much to flooring and driving on petrol only. Thats not how i want to keep the car
Air filther is cheaper one but yes its made for this model. I took it apart just today like 3 times.
As for now i can hear from my cut exhaust how engine is doing is it ok or not. Its not ok on idle car standing in P is not ok thete. Vibrating thats not normal and even more vibrations when stoping on D . That was not happening before i made this thread or before i put that injector cleaner onto petrol. So now its worse working the it was before i started injectors and coils changing places. Now its worse then it ever been on me.
My 2001 vdc on 2.5 was just ok car on engine side just it was rusty. Why i payed here like 3x more for this. Shet. Cant do any overlanding or just driving in it . Its not usable for now.
Verify your spark plug gap, I don't remember if you have done this yet, but since it seems to be getting worse, it could be a problem with the plug, maybe its even leaning out burning out the electrode.
 

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Discussion Starter #70 (Edited)
I checked gap on one that i put into cyl 2 and it was like 0.72 smt like that.
Someone said if i used that jnjector cleaner for petrol maybe some clog moved to injectors like to all at that line 246 and i just changed them places but nothing changed.
Other thing which is weird for me check light comes and goes away itself like depend on revs im doing do i accelerate or droping gas sometimes it lights up on idle and goes away when i start to driving. Just weird its not constant.
And engine on idle vibrates some too it was not doing that earlier before changing plugs and injector cleaner was working smooth in idle before.
And sometimes on drive and when i brake and just wanna drive again its like allmost chocking vibrate more but its random sometimes doing that sometimes not.
i guess only one fuel filter is that tampon kinda thing inside petrol tank in fuel pump. I moslty drive on half empty fuel tank puting like max 20l petrol at once maybe with that injector cleaner in it its like cleaned all bad stuff from petrol tank and clogged something.
But then why just cyl 2 missfire and 4 , that 4 is coming back too not allways now but still comes.
All that thinking because just 2 things i did and those must brought all this one or another.
 

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I checked gap on one that i put into cyl 2 and it was like 0.72 smt like that.
Someone said if i used that jnjector cleaner for petrol maybe some clog moved to injectors like to all at that line 246 and i just changed them places but nothing changed.
Other thing which is weird for me check light comes and goes away itself like depend on revs im doing do i accelerate or droping gas sometimes it lights up on idle and goes away when i start to driving. Just weird its not constant.
And engine on idle vibrates some too it was not doing that earlier before changing plugs and injector cleaner was working smooth in idle before.
And sometimes on drive and when i brake and just wanna drive again its like allmost chocking vibrate more but its random sometimes doing that sometimes not.
i guess only one fuel filter is that tampon kinda thing inside petrol tank in fuel pump. I moslty drive on half empty fuel tank puting like max 20l petrol at once maybe with that injector cleaner in it its like cleaned all bad stuff from petrol tank and clogged something.
But then why just cyl 2 missfire and 4 , that 4 is coming back too not allways now but still comes.
All that thinking because just 2 things i did and those must brought all this one or another.
You pulled the plug out again and checked? Or was that when you put it in initially? I would still pull all 6, or at least that bank for 2 4 6, and take pictures of all the plugs for us. We can see how the engine is running depending on the condition of the plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
ok i will do it again .. and all allways on hot engine . its best thing remove plugs on hot engine lol
 

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Discussion Starter #73
@SwitchPNW Here they are from left to right from cyl 246
Its ngk iridium


On right ngk new ones and on left previous bosch r6 iridium they have that thicker center electrode there

Will put back bosch ones now and see how it will work with them
 

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They appear to be burning well, gap looks a little bit big, hard to tell from pics. One of those bosch plugs is showing signs of incomplete combustion, the more black one.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
So what gap it should be ? If i saw right subaru saying it must be 0.7-0.8 .
When i put those 3 bosch plugs only on 246 and started engine it went 246 missfire and wouldnt delete errors just on all time now will try 135 changed back too and see.
It doesnt like working on different plugs i guess. But i wont be putting back now again ngk plugs its just if nothing will change then i duno.
One thing whats good at least i think so because lpg doesnt use fuel system or fuel injectors and lpg throws same 2 cyl error and then 6 from its own means at least maybe that its not fuel system fault . But if not fuel not ignition and not air then whos fault ?
 

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Discussion Starter #76
135 plugs looks same good. But it took me so long time to remove them so i will put back bosch now for sure and drive to swim in lake in whatever state car will be. Cant be worse the it is i guess.
 

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Does that maf looks ok there? Its dusty somehow but air filter is fine se where thats coming from?
Well i think my intake is not cracked as much as i took it apart last time today, so i guess its ok.
That mud was from last trip i did with forester club and i was ok for their mud water holes there.
maf2.jpg

In the photo (inverted to normal position), there's brown dust above the o-ring, i.e., outside the air intake duct, but also a lot of dust below the o-ring, i.e., inside the duct. Inside the duct should only be fairly clean air that has passed through the filter. I would think there should be a greater difference between the amount of dust above the o-ring and below it. Is there similar dust in the round duct going to the large airbox? Is there dust in the air filter box after the filter?

There could be a leak around the o-ring, or perhaps in the joint between the two halves of the air filter housing. That dust is getting inside some place.

The air flow is measured by a hot wire sensor. If there's contamination, such as a coating, on the sensor wire, it can affect the sensitivity to air flow, leading to incorrect information going to the ECM.
 

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So what gap it should be ? If i saw right subaru saying it must be 0.7-0.8 .
When i put those 3 bosch plugs only on 246 and started engine it went 246 missfire and wouldnt delete errors just on all time now will try 135 changed back too and see.
It doesnt like working on different plugs i guess. But i wont be putting back now again ngk plugs its just if nothing will change then i duno.
One thing whats good at least i think so because lpg doesnt use fuel system or fuel injectors and lpg throws same 2 cyl error and then 6 from its own means at least maybe that its not fuel system fault . But if not fuel not ignition and not air then whos fault ?
Yes .7-.8mm is correct, did you verify the gap? I would not use those bosch plugs since they are causing misfires. Pre gapped plugs don't always come gapped correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #79 (Edited)
Well those new ngk plugs caused same thing. So its no difference there.
Now drove and same story cyl 2 missfire. So i guess as some ppl say its not about cyl 2 at all then but something else.
Bosch have smaller gap was .65
Well until this all car on petrol was working ok just was slugish from launch, but when i used that injector cleaner it went just worse. I duno what to think . Still injectors? ****
 

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Discussion Starter #80
View attachment 485911

In the photo (inverted to normal position), there's brown dust above the o-ring, i.e., outside the air intake duct, but also a lot of dust below the o-ring, i.e., inside the duct. Inside the duct should only be fairly clean air that has passed through the filter. I would think there should be a greater difference between the amount of dust above the o-ring and below it. Is there similar dust in the round duct going to the large airbox? Is there dust in the air filter box after the filter?

There could be a leak around the o-ring, or perhaps in the joint between the two halves of the air filter housing. That dust is getting inside some place.

The air flow is measured by a hot wire sensor. If there's contamination, such as a coating, on the sensor wire, it can affect the sensitivity to air flow, leading to incorrect information going to the ECM.
Yes there was dust in box but its not that sealed or anything in front. I checked box was closed properly so dust still coming through then.
 
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