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Overheating, Have tried everything

5K views 30 replies 9 participants last post by  1 Lucky Texan 
#1 ·
Hi, I'm a new member trying to get some help with my 1997 Outback wagon. I know it's old and I know there have been many discussions about HG and overheating but this is my story so far.
I just bought this car about 3 months ago. Had water gurgling in heater core, went to mechanic he suspected HG went back to 2nd hand dealer and got $800 back in order for me to use my mechanic to make repairs. My mechanic replaced thermostat, rad cap, core cleaned rad and flushed system, replaced HG, timing belt and tensioners, water pump, couple of other oil seals. Pressure tested heads and shaved heads. Also replaced top radiator hose and cap several times now. I have spent over $3000.
Car can run great for miles and then start to overheat. Seems to dump coolant in to reservoir and that then overflows, then when it cools sucks reservoir dry and rad needs coolant as well.
Also top hose is collapsing sometimes even while engine running, but I have replaced it and replaced the radiator cap 3 times, overflow tube is clear of obstructions.
May be related to air conditioner as I have only managed to replicate symptoms in garage while A/C is on.

Please help. At the moment I have lost all faith in Subaru and my mechanic
 
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#3 ·
Well usually collapsing is a symptom of a bad cap not allowing vacuum from the overflow tank. Sounds like you've eliminated that through replacements. How is the passage from the rad cap to the tank. Maybe try replacing that hose.

And I have to ask, coolant being bled with the heater on full blast?
 
#8 ·
I removed the thermostat to check what the mechanic ad installed. He told me it was genuine and it does appear from your picture and from the none genuine replacement I had on hand to compare that it is. I also tested it and appears to open at the correct temp.
 
#10 ·
This didn't work please continue to help.

I have found what I think has been the problem all along. Currently testing car to prove no other problems, but I found a split in the heater/bypass hose coming off the water pump. It doesn't leak all the time in fact after an hour of idling/revving I found 1 drop of coolant on it and nearly dismissed it as a spill from above until I wiped it and more came out. Replaced hose and just trying to burp system now (why are they so hard).
I think this has probably been the problem from the start and I have wasted over 3 months and $3000. NOT HAPPY.
Thanks everyone for your replies. I will let you know if it definately works. IT DIDN'T!!!!
 
#13 ·
I still need help. I still have the problem. Car drives fine for 40-50 km's and then starts to overheat especially at slower speeds. If I come off the highway and slow down on a side road thats when it starts. The only thing I can see is that the overflow bottle has overflowed and when the car cools down the radiator sucks the overflow dry. So for some reason the pressure is getting too high and pushes all the coolant out not leaving enough to keep the car cool. I'm really at a loss now.
 
#15 ·
My car does the same exact thing.... No different. Talked to professional Subaru mechanic that is workingoon it right now. He said its my heads... So we both bought a lemon because I haven't even put. 900 miles on my car and didn't have it for 2 weeks and it had no warrenty.
 
#16 ·
Best of luck tbitner95 I hope your mechanic fixes it. Mines back at the mechanics, they've given me a loan car (Toyota Camry) I think I'll just keep that and not answer the phone when the mechanic rings :). I think they're going to try and tell me it's the engine block now, I don't know if that is even possible but it's a bit late to tell me now, I could have put a Jap engine in it and be happily driving, who would rebuild an engine at a cost more than the car when it is 16 years old, and not that special.
 
#18 ·
Let me know what happens. My mechanic had the car for another 2 days, tried a few other things and couldn't solve it. They are going to pull the engine back out and start again. Hopefully it is a cracked head that failed to show up in the first pressure test and the engine rebuilders will have to repair or replace it at their cost.
 
#20 ·
The only reason the car will overpressurize the cooling system is if there is exhaust leaking into the cooling system.

If you have bubbles in your overflow you have a leak. Either HG, cracked head, or cracked block.

Use a block leak detector from Napa to test for the presence of exhaust gases.
 
#24 ·
Previous tests for exhaust gas in coolant have come up negative. There are bubbles in coolant some times but when following the burp procedure I can get all the bubbles out and it runs clear for a while. Thinking that there is a crack somewhere that only opens up under higher pressures/stress.
 
#25 ·
you might try a new radiator cap and carefully inspect the small hose that goes to the overflow bottle.

Does the o'flow bottle consistently have 2-3 inches of coolant in the bottom? It should.

if it's empty, the system could pull air back in, if it fills up or overflows, that pressure almost certainly must come from a bad headgasket or other similarly severe problem with block or heads.
 
#27 ·
Just got my car back again today. Engine has been removed a second time, heads re pressure tested (still no sign of a crack), reassembled using a different brand of head gasket and although I've only done about 100 km's I'm feeling confident that it is fixed. What an absolute drama and pain in the ass.
Thanks everyone for your suggestions.
 
#30 ·
Not sure on either, but I'm guessing neither were Subaru. Don't get me upset now though I'm finally happy with the car. ....Except.... it seems to take a long time to get up to temp now (about 10 minutes of driving) and after driving for about an hour the other day I was coasting down a mountain range and the temp gauge actually went colder, down to about a quarter. Is this normal for Subbies. I've never seen it before in any other car. I asked the mechanic, they reckon they didn't remove the thermostat (which is new) and can't anyway because it is part of the gasket to seal housing. I'm not too concerned just curious if this is a subbie thing?
 
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