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Alright having some problems so gonna lay it all out from the beginning. >:)

Got my battery replaced in 2016, picked the car up and the dash was lit up like a christmas tree. They took it back in, said they 'blew a fuse when replacing the battery, see it all the time with Subarus.' Since then Iv'e had a jittery idle.

THEN winter of that year, code comes on & the dash lights up.
P2096 post cast fuel system lean.
Replace gas cap. get code cleared. put gas in the car. The code goes away.
Since then, the same code would throw in the cold every once in a while.

:| CURRENTLY: :|
LIGHTS ON DASH: CEL, TRACTION CONTROL, CRUISE, BRAKE.

Lights won't go away. Car is idling like crap. dying at idle. choking at start. same code p2096. Replaced both o2 sensors. Didn't fix anything, but now these codes are the only one's showing up:

p0137 o2 sensor low voltage
p0108 map sensor circuit high

along with:
c0057 fail communicate btwn ECM & ABS
c0231
c0110 ABS pump circuit problem?
c0221 excessive air inflow

IS ALL OF THIS RELATED TO ONE PROBLEM?
A bad ground? a short? a fuse or relay? bad ECM? bad battery connection?

Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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Premium Member
2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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14,318 Posts
p0137 o2 sensor low voltage
p0108 map sensor circuit high

along with:
c0057 fail communicate btwn ECM & ABS
c0231
c0110 ABS pump circuit problem?
c0221 excessive air inflow

IS ALL OF THIS RELATED TO ONE PROBLEM?
A bad ground? a short? a fuse or relay? bad ECM? bad battery connection?

Any help is greatly appreciated.
YES.

All these codes lead to electrical flow issues. Its not a relay or fuse because all these systems are on different relays and fuses. Its not the PCM because the ABS/VDC module is separate. Communication is via electrical signals. Electricity is provided by the battery and the alternator. If your battery is not supplying enough amperes to the system (amperes not voltage) then you get communication issues.

Test the ampere output of the battery without the car running. For yours, optimal is above 500 amps. If you have premium sound and auto AC, 600 amps.

Check the conductance from the battery to the block and body. If you are losing more than 50 amps, look for loose or corroded ground straps/lugs.

Your negative cable from the battery may be corroded underneath the insulation. Peel back about 2" and see what the strands look like.

Dito for the positive cable.

I've had plenty of batteries measure at or above 12V and the ampere output below 200 amps. Low voltage does damage to management systems, especially automatic transmissions, so the quicker you find it the better.
 

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2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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14,318 Posts
And, you can get various lengths of 4 ga cable with eyelets at both ends to add grounding. I suggest a cable from the negative post to the alternator bracket bolt at the rear. You can run a cable across the top of the block behind the AC. Recently added a cable to a Gen 3 and loss went from 165 amps to 35.
 
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