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Plain:
I haven't followed this thread very closely.
Does the MAF g/s increase when the pcv is blocked?
I would expect it to, just wanted to check as an initial question.
...this was a thread hijack to plain OM's question.
 

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Yeah I see that now.
This is what happens when you post via mobile instead of computer.
 

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Plain:
I haven't followed this thread very closely.
Does the MAF g/s increase when the pcv is blocked?
I would expect it to, just wanted to check as an initial question.
This thread (the one we're in now) isn't mine. The question I have is related to my thread http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/254522-logging-ecu-data-2-5-non-turbo-what-about-iam-what-value-do-you-have-3.html#post3282298, in particular, an observation that I made in post #83, and followed-up in post #87. Appreciate the ideas and questions, but perhaps we should move this discussion over there.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Just an update here...so far, 300+ miles and no CEL for either misfire. The start-ups have not been as smooth as I would like to see but it is starting without misfires. I have that PCV assembly (11815AB11B) on order for it...this seems to be a bigger issue that I first thought. I didn't realize how bad it was leaking...when the car is moving down the road the HVAC air is just fine but as soon as your stop, crankcase smell inside really bad. I decided to spray some soapy water on the plastic Y to see how bad it was leaking...yeah, it is so bad that it blew the soapy water off before it could even bubble. I have been reading a bit on PCV air and understand it can affect performance too, especially with fuel mixtures. So maybe this fix will help a bit, I will wait and see. This will be a project for this weekend...
 

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Discussion Starter #87
So...after 600 miles, we were doing really well and then the car sat for two days, started up rough then threw a CEL. At least I know vacuum is the culprit and now I just have to find that super slow leak I have. I may have 1 or 2 original lines that were tight at the connections but I am going to just replace them to see what happens. I have also read that some suggest the throttle body to intake gasket as a vacuum abuser and also the intake manifold gasket. Both look pretty straight forward to do, does anyone have a suggestion as to which one to do first? I really don't have any ideas which way to lean first. My question would be which one seems to fail most often. It will probably be a little while before I can get to these but it is something I plan to do sooner rather than later.
 

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So. Have you had it pressure tested, the intake? I built my own tester, and it can use dry ice...or actual smoke to add a visulal. But if there is a leak, you hear it. Pressure testing was the only way I eventually found all of mine. And I replaced ALL of my vacuum, coolant and PCV system piping...All of it. Most with clamps, and Zip-ties...unless it is stuck fast.

Which is good. I am glad my tuner was so insistent on me pressurizing the intake. Because, now Frank is overboosting as high as 22psi. ed had me pressurize to to 20-25 lbs. I am glad I did.

The intake to TGV...(unless yours has a long intake runner) then just the intake to the head. The TGV to the head...as well as the mentioned TB are sources of a possible leak. The brake booster draws off the intake as well. That is a large hose off the the master cylinder servo.

I think that is all I got.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
I have never pressure tested the intake...can you PM me with a procedure?


PCV is now all new. Coolant hoses between the radiator and engine are new...most of the vacuum lines are new but I have a few I need to replace, I don't have the right size at home so I need to go get some. I will try anything at this point but I am certain I have already put my hands on the fix once because it ran so good for 5 days until it developed fuel leaks at the injector rail. Once I started messing with that issue I have never made it back to where it once was...unless the cracked fuel pressure regulator line ends up fixing it. It was fine when I checked it before but since it cracked 1/4" on the end that hooks to the regulator...smoking gun...I am not sure but am hopeful. I will replace the remaining vacuum lines soon to rule them out before messing with intake and TB gaskets...then I will know the vacuum system is fine.


I did find a line that I am unsure of what it is...it is located between the firewall (right of the brake booster) and where the rubber fuel lines connect into rigid lines on the driver's side of the engine...it isn't one of the fuel lines but it is right there with them. Looks like it may have broke at one time and they stretched it to make it fit. It may be vacuum, I am not real sure...if anyone knows, let me know...it is on the list to get replaced too...
 

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Discussion Starter #92
OK, I will post updates in the coming days. I plan to change the rest of the vacuum lines first to see if that is the magic I need.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
Looks like the fuel pressure regulator line that was cracked was the culprit. Car started up great yesterday and today for her, no stumbling, no stuttering, just started and went straight up to high idle. No light either...I will post updates in a few days but I may be back in business.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
Bit of a depressing run I have been on here with this Outback since my last post...first I fix it, then it acts up, then I fix the same problem and so on...well I did figure out the FPR line was leaking so I fixed it with what I had and it worked...until the tubing melted and was loosey goosey after two days. I got good vacuum line today and replaced the remaining 3 lines that were originals. The bear under the intake manifold which was nice and tight was also cracked beyond belief (I think it was melted in place which would explain why it was tight). So all is new and everything is clamped (even the bear under the intake manifold). There are only two more vacuum related lines that I know of; the brake booster and the line that follows the fuel lines from the firewall to the engine right side. Since I have never messed with these lines, for now they are in good shape and have never been a part of the solution so far so they are staying. Besides, they look like sizes I don't have. On a positive note, the car did start crappy after replacing the lines...then I changed the oil and the next start-up was real nice. The third was nice too. I will try it one more time tonight after it gets cold to see how it is...
 

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Hang in there...I am suffering myself...I fix it...then, somehow...not. I think I find something huge and definitive...and again...no change. Or the issue comes back.

I applaud your dedication to the repair...(hopefully) and your commitment to updating the thread. So many times these "problem threads" just drop and there is no resolution or long term care to the thread.

Good Work. :29:
 

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Discussion Starter #97
Well, day 10 since I replaced all of the vacuum lines and no CEL. Start-up is still quirky at times but since the CEL isn't coming on, I am letting it roll. Sometimes it is better if you keep your hands off when things are ok :)


I will update again in another week but I am hopeful in my efforts. Thanks to all for the support!
 

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keep at it...I am staying tuned. Hey Mods....

@lockmedic @Brucey...can someone sticky this...I have been involved with several members with similar/same issue. Use your judgment. I would without permission (you know me...but I don't know how)
 
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