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Cardoc,

Well it was meant to be 3 weeks, but ended up being 3 months...life has a way of changing things around on you. I'll be heading back up to PA on Thursday afternoon and will be able to make the above adjustments and start logging on Friday morning. I'll make one run with just the new knock sensor and then another with the AF's removed too. I hope you'll be able to see and make sense of the results when I post them on Friday morning. Thank you in advance for your help!
Cheers,
Geoff
Cardoc,
Well, you said running without the sensors would be loud! Sorry for the lack of consistency in the categories, but I populated the run without the AF sensors from memory...which is obviously failing me. I hope that I captured the categories that count. Edit Update: trying to attach .zip files but to no avail. Trying for the last hour...
Best Regards,
Geoff
 

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Will do @cardoc

Forgive the reposting of the files, but I wanted to test what a previous poster had done and perhaps post a tutorial to help others. To make sense of the files: 2 runs were just changing out the knock sensor and wires and 2 runs with the the AF's taken out. Curious how roughness was never an issue, but with the sensors removed, it registered roughness in one of the cylinders. Anyway..I'll swap out the cats now as I have them with me. Crappy weather in PA...a lot like south FLA.
Thanks for your help,
Geoff

 

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@cardoc
Here is the log post-cat change. I see there is still some knock correction taking place but I will throw the caveat out there that I am running on 3 month old gas and my test run took me over more terrain than my runs yesterday. My monitor yielded no codes and no pending codes - first time ever.
What do you think?
Geoff

 

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@cardoc
Here is the log post-cat change. I see there is still some knock correction taking place but I will throw the caveat out there that I am running on 3 month old gas and my test run took me over more terrain than my runs yesterday. My monitor yielded no codes and no pending codes - first time ever.
What do you think?
Geoff

If you are running low octane and on an incline or added load, these knock values are normal. Looks good.
 

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@cardoc

I'm sure the octane was depleted from sitting there since mid-May and for sure there was an incline I was navigating at the end of that run, but didn't think to throw the result out and relog on flatter terrain. Glad you think that everything is within acceptable parameters. The car runs smoothly and best of all...0 DTC's.
Thanks for all of your help! It was a journey and I've learned so much.
Geoff
 

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The AF sensors are working, as well as the O2s.
The fuel trim on bank one is a little high, but then it comes down. I would check for a leak in the intake on bank 1 or an issue with the PCV valve or hose that is allowing unmetered air in. Also check the oil fill cap seal for the same reason.
The engine seems to be running good at idle. I would like to see a log with it driven. About a 2 minute cruising at 45 then highway speed.
The cats are toast.
I was able to get a log, but it was all at about 55-60, sorry, should have read your message again before logging.


I bought a new PCV valve and hose today, probably be able to install them this weekend. I'll look at the air intake and the oil cap (it seems fine to me). Should I wait to figure out the issue before installing the cats so they don't get damaged, or should I just bite the bullet and do them as well. Do I have to go OEM with them or are there any other brands that would work?
 

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From the same seller

Left https://www.ebay.com/itm/Catalytic-Converter-Fits-2005-Subaru-Outback-2-5L-H4-GAS-SOHC/292778413641?epid=0&hash=item442af40e49:g:IFcAAOSw--xbybCd

Right https://www.ebay.com/itm/Catalytic-Converter-for-2005-Subaru-Outback-2-5L-H4-GAS-SOHC-i/292778416777?epid=9024937719&hash=item442af41a89:g:Z0QAAOSwQrVbybCu

Another full set (higher feedback rating and $15 more than buying the 2 above) https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Body-Converters-fits-for-Subaru-Outback-2-5L-04-05-California-Emissions-ONLY/201190791186?hash=item2ed7e7d812:g:zjEAAOSwENVcBrKK

Both sellers have a 5 year warranty.
Get the gaskets from Subaru or Rock Auto (OEM). OEM is Mahle MS12392 for the head flange, Mahle F10094 for the crossover and Mahle F31662 for the header to intermediate pipe.
 

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I was able to get a log, but it was all at about 55-60, sorry, should have read your message again before logging.


I bought a new PCV valve and hose today, probably be able to install them this weekend. I'll look at the air intake and the oil cap (it seems fine to me). Should I wait to figure out the issue before installing the cats so they don't get damaged, or should I just bite the bullet and do them as well. Do I have to go OEM with them or are there any other brands that would work?
I purchased the Walker brand from Amazon in 2 separate purchases a few weeks ago. Went on without too much fuss - will never have the longevity of the OEM, but the price point is fractional to where you could feasibly replace them a couple of times for the price you'll pay for OEM. Just my $0.02...
 

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I purchased the Walker brand from Amazon in 2 separate purchases a few weeks ago. Went on without too much fuss - will never have the longevity of the OEM, but the price point is fractional to where you could feasibly replace them a couple of times for the price you'll pay for OEM. Just my $0.02...
Let me know how it works out. I plan in going with a walker cat in my 3.6R once I have the funds
 

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Are cats different for the pzev? I had no idea I had a pzev until I pinched in my VIN and saw.

I'm curious how walker will go. My wife is sick of the constant CEL and Is already looking for the next car. We have 120k miles and even though it's a 2013, trade in and resale values are abysmal for our car. I have no issues putting in a walker for the next 5 years vs $1200+ for Subarus.
 

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Walker went in quite easily...not flawless. There was some massaging of the fit necessary, but no more than a few minutes of a little tap here and a little tap there. The effect was immediate and cured my P0420. I spent less than $500 delivered.
 

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The catalytic converters are different based on PZEV an ULEV vehicles. California emission vehicles have different cats also, but if you are outside an area that mandates the California (CARB) compliance, a normal cat will suffice and work fine.

You also have different setups depending on generation and engine. Some EJ25s had a single cat with one front and one rear sensor while others have a Y-pipe with 2 cats, one for each bank, a 3rd cat in the rear after the collector and 5 sensors.

All you have to do is look under the car and see if your manifold wraps around the front of the engine or runs along both sides. Both sides is 3 cats and 5 sensors.
 

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This is my first post, hello all.

I was reading through the whole thread at least two times but not being a expert myself I can just hope I've recorded the needed data for my car's 0420 CEL. It comes back always after a reset. The gas is a regular type of a better brand here in Canada but I've tried higher octanes to no change.
This is a 2005 OB 2.5 car with 110k miles that has the CAT replaced few years ago. I tend to believe that the CAT is faulty again -- based on the Rear O2 sensor values.
Thanks for an insight,
tefloff
[I cannot link the data along with my first post, I keep trying]
 

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This is my first post, hello all.

I was reading through the whole thread at least two times but not being a expert myself I can just hope I've recorded the needed data for my car's 0420 CEL. It comes back always after a reset. The gas is a regular type of a better brand here in Canada but I've tried higher octanes to no change.
This is a 2005 OB 2.5 car with 110k miles that has the CAT replaced few years ago. I tend to believe that the CAT is faulty again -- based on the Rear O2 sensor values.
Thanks for an insight,
tefloff
[I cannot link the data along with my first post, I keep trying]
Yeah, that cat's toasted. It's not doing anything except acting as a resonator.

The engine looks to be running good otherwise. Temp is good, MAF is good, AF Correction is good.

So, others will wonder about it, what was with shutting the engine off mid way through? Or did it stall?
 

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Yeah, that cat's toasted. It's not doing anything except acting as a resonator.

The engine looks to be running good otherwise. Temp is good, MAF is good, AF Correction is good.

So, others will wonder about it, what was with shutting the engine off mid way through? Or did it stall?
Apologies, it was a short pause at the gas station. I hope it won't break again after the replacement. I'll do test runs. Thanks for the answer.
 
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