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P0600, Limp mode, ER HC, ER SS

5212 Views 69 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  AnotherSubaruGuy, 
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2008 Outback 2.5i Limited w/ VDC. When I put the car into drive it moves forward but when I press the gas it just revs, it will accelerate under its own power and allow some throttle response once moving but if I give it too much gas it just revs higher. This is especially problematic when making a sharp turn, causing the car to be undrivable on public roads.

Background on the car: The guy I bought the car from said it needed a transmission. I found it had the WRONG transmission in it (one without VDC, code TZ1B8LFEBA) so I replaced it with the proper transmission (with VDC, code TV1B8MFEBA) and got 1,500 miles out of the replacement. I was driving, made a turn, the car revved without acceleration for a few seconds and slammed super hard into gear and threw all the dash lights. I limped back down the highway about 3 miles to my shop and that was that. Scanned and had a code for a pressure control solenoid (can't remember exact code) and decided to just replace the trans again.

I installed the next used replacement, and the first drive seemed like a big improvement until it got up to full temp and started doing the things mentioned in the first paragraph. Last time I scanned it I had codes C0045, C0022, C0052, no Pxxxx codes stored in the ECM or TCM. I figured there's no way this thing is just spitting out trannys so I replaced the TCM and it's still not fixed. Fluid level looks good and no noticeable faults in the wiring. Where else do I look or how do I go about about testing things? Any input is appreciated.
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2008 Outback Limited, 2.5 Auto w/ VDC

When I put the car in gear (1,2,D,R) it moves under its own power and will accelerate to +10 mph but doesn't respond to engine RPMs, almost like its slipping but it seems more like engine power is being cut. No lights on the dash but it has codes C0047 and C0071.
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The new and only codes are for the Steering Angle Sensor and the other one I believe is a VDC module fault/communication error. Pan looks free of dents and I've checked the fluid at idle, both cold and once up to temp. The diff stayed with the trans each time as well and both front CV axles are newer and intact. I'm really thinking it's something electrical causing engine power to be cut and not sent to the wheels, I'm just not sure how to start diagnosis.

SilverOnyx said:
Why aren't you responding to your older thread about the same issue? You originally gave a lot more back story to the situation there. Making new threads for the same problem won't help.
Click to expand...
I've been checking the orignal thread but somehow I wasn't getting updates that anyone replied so I tried again, without all the words to scare everyone off
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Thank you guys for the input, I will start checking grounds and more fuses tomorrow. The only thing that has me leaning on a fried module is the fact that the wrong transmission was installed by the previous owner and the car was driven maybe 200 miles with the non VDC trans in it.
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Right on guys, got it. And no worries Onyx, wasn't trying to be difficult and I didn't take anything as a scolding lol not sure where you picked up on that, I guess things just get misconstrued communicating on the internet.

Anyways, I cleaned up the grounds and in the process found a mouse chewed on the spark plug wire at the coil, again. 'Minor' detail I forgot to mention in my orignal post because it was already so long was: a mouse had chewed through #2 plug wire about 2 weeks ago and also nibbled through the black loom around the crank sensor harness and got a few strands of the wire, I dealt with those items at that time. The rest of the harness in the engine bay 'looks' fine and I checked the wiring to the ECM too. This chewing thing only happened after the most recent breakdown, but it may be mice I've been up against all along.
I will update as I find out more. Sorry if this is confusing, I'm trying to be specific
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So I cleaned all the grounds and that didn't work. I got it on the on the lift to check for anything suspicious underneath and I put it in gear just to see what would happen. In park the wheels were spinning, can't recall if that's normal, but more importantly in drive it seemed to be letting the power go to the wheels as I revved the engine like it should be when all 4 wheels are in the ground. But, when I pressed the brake the ABS kicked in and stopped me from pushing the brake pedal down, which didn't seem or sound normal at all. I let the car down and took it for a drive, and it was running like a champ. I gave it some good gas on our gravel driveway and caused some wheel spin then the red BRAKE, traction, and I think AWD lights flashed for a split second, and it went back to doing the revving/slipping thing. No lights illuminated in cluster, still pulling codes C0071, C0047 and a new C0051.
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I left the battery disconnected overnight while I cleaned the grounds and didn't have any improvement on start up.

It was in Park on the lift, but it was only the rear wheels spinning.

The weird thing is the throttle response felt normal with the wheels off the ground, then when I lowered it down and drove it again it felt normal like the test drive after installing this current tranny. After I caused TC/VDC to kick, it went back to little to no power going to the wheels unless I gun it from a dig, then it will spin the tires.

Not to sound like a smart guy, but these cars are all I work on and I don't think I've seen the ABS kick in like that before. I mean I really had to fight with that pedal to stop the wheels.

When I first purchased the car it actually drove pretty normally but would slip under hard acceleration and kinda hunt for gears, and it had a Christmas tree for an instrument cluster. But it was not doing what it's doing now.

With it being intermittent like it is I don't feel like it's a mechanical part failing, but I could be wrong. When I press the gas and the brake at same time I can feel it build torque, and like I said it will spin tires from a dig but bog out.

I really do appreciate all of your guys' help and time
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Yes all tires are within even wear and the trans has been replaced 3 times now, but the diff is original to my knowledge. Would anyone be able to help me out with the diagnostic tree from the FSM on C0045?
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Thank you. So to update I changed the ABS/VDC module and no luck. On start up I immediately got a C0045 with AA definition (incorrect module specs) and same symptoms, only I had a TC and ABS light on now. I also tried putting in another battery but nothing. Swapped original ABS unit back in and got a new C0072 (abnormal yaw rate sensor output ) code that scanner says is an older code, pre-existing C0045 with AB defintion of TCM malfuntion (old), and the C0071 steering angle sensor (old). When trying to drive it, it has response to wheels up to 1k RPM but feels like it goes into neutral if you turn the steering wheel, and it will eventually throw a P0720 (output speed sensor). A few things worth mentioning: I found a bad front wheel hub (lots of in and out play) so I will be replacing that, also when I try to read live data on the VDC sytem everything is zeroed out, no response from any wheel speed sensor, steering angle sensor, G sensor, etc. Also when I try clearing codes the scanner says there aren't any codes stored. I am stumped. It is so weird to me these symptoms go away when I lift the car up in gear and it drives fine after that, until I make the wheels slip. I feel like there's something I should be testing for Ohms or volts but I'm not sure where or what. Sorry for my lack of skills here or if it seems like I'm repeating myself and including random info, just trying to be as clear as possible.
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Ok so I think I'm getting close. Started testing at the VDCCM connector and I have good voltage but I checked pin #25 which should be the main ground, and the resistance is off the charts. It has over 5 ohms when it should be under .5.
So I've been trying to find a diagram to figure out where the wiring runs and I lose it where it goes inside the car from the fender apron. Now heres where I'm getting confused: the attached diagram shows wiring running to the TCM on the passenger side of the dash and it shows the ECM under the Driver side of the dash??? I know this is definitely not how these models are layed out, am I missing something? Anyone know where the ABS/VDC module harness runs?
Motor vehicle Wheel Automotive lighting Font Automotive design
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Better yet, does anyone know how I would go about pinpointing the high resistance?
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I will check all connectors in the system and look for any corrosion. The FSM I have is for 2008MY and I have put my eyes on both ECM and TCM and they are in normal locations for the 05-09 models. I was definitely pinning #25, I did it over 4 times just to make sure and it is a black wire on the other side of the connector. My multimeter should also be accurate based on everything else I've tested with it, I just diagnosed a valve body in a TR690 with it in so I think its working fine. If checking connectors doesn't result in anything, is my best bet just following wiring as deep as possible? I'm losing the harness under the dash where it goes behind the HVAC and stereo head unit.
I appreciate all the helpful replies!
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Well, I made sure all connectors were on properly and I checked the GB-7 ground and it looked good, I unbolted it and made sure it wasn't corroded but I didn't see anything out of the ordinary (with the glovebox and blower motor assembly removed). I checked resistance at pin #25 and I pulled 2.5 Ohms, started the car and had codes P1718 (CAN communication circuit) and P0600 (serial communication link malfunction). I shut the car off and checked resistance and main power supply voltage and had 14.5V and .5 Ohms. Cleared codes, started the car, and CEL, AT OIL TEMP, AWD, VDC, and BRAKE lights came back on. Tried to drive it and it feels worse than before, seems that the VDC system is completely dead and all power is completely restricted from going to the wheels now. My scanner will only pull codes from the ECM and TCM but can't communicate with the VDCCM. When trying to shift it into park, it stopped and stayed in neutral until I shut it off, then I could shift into P. Unfortunately I'm starting to think I'm gonna have to throw the towel in on this one and send it to another shop, this car has me pulling my hair out. I guess I just have more to learn and need to buy a better scanner, at 19 I haven't done anything this tedious yet and this is just beyond my skill level. If I find anything out I'll keep the thread updated.
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I think there is some way to test line pressure, but now my scanner can't communicate with the ABS/VDC module at all to operate commands since I took the connector apart for pinning.
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I do have an ER HC and Er 55/SS on odo. My Autel scanner can't communicate with the BIU only ECM, TCM, and (at one point) ABS/VDCCM. First thing on my Christmas list is a better scanner, any reccomendations? Been looking at the Harbor Freight ZR PRO scanner.
Oddly enough the car only started throwing the P0600 and P1718 codes after pinning the connector, and no current C codes. Would it be just the wiring going into the BIU or is there more I should check for?
P.s. thanks for chiming in and reading through this mess of mine, I do appreciate it.
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Ok so I've had the car at another shop for the last week and they haven't been able to find anything, only new info is they pulled codes:

U1201 high speed can counter abnormal
U1202 can hs bus off
U1223 can hs vdc no recieve data

Thinking about getting the car back and figuring out where to go from there
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Nope, car is bone stock
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Ok so I realized I never updated with the info they gave me and saw you left a new reply. I will see what I find according to the diagram you provided, but here is the shop's 'diagnosis'

"INTITIAL SCAN CONFIRMED NO COMMUNICATION WITH ABS MODULE, ALL OTHER MODULES ABLE TO COMMUNICATE. BACKPROBED ABS MODULE CONNECTOR PINS FOR CANBUS VOLTAGE, MEASURED 1.2v ON CANHi AND 0.9v ON CANLo. REQUIRED AVERAGE CANBUS VOLTAGE IS 1.5-2.5 CANLo AND 2.5-3.5 CANHi, INDICATING COMMUNICATION IS A RESULT OF LOW CAN VOLTAGE. DISCONNECTING ABS MODULE WILL CAUSE CAN VOLTAGE TO RETURN TO NORMAL LEVELS. (MAY BE DUE TO THE INTERNAL SIGNAL RESISTOR RELEASING LOAD FROM THE CIRCUIT WHEN REMOVED). ABS MODULE ONLY ONE TO AFFECT VOLTAGE ON CANBUS CIRCUIT. TRACED WIRING HARNESS WITH BREAK/SHORT DETECTOR FROM MODULE TO ECU AND DID NOT FIND BREAKS IN THE HARNESS, CANBUS, OR OTHERWISE. CAUSE OF LOW CANBUS VOLTAGE IS STILL UNKNOWN. ABS MODULE IS RECEIVING 12V BATTERY, GOOD GROUND, AND 12V REFERENCE SIGNAL. ALL TESTABLE METRICS MATCH TWO OTHER ABS MODULES WE COMPARED THE INSTALLED MODULE TO."
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So the communication error is due to the connector on the module not seating all the way. I replaced the ABS module with an exact match and still had no communication so I went and pushed the connector on and it is communicating with the scanner again but still having the same driveability issues. Another shop checked it out and said they had never seen anything like it and all they could do is start with replacing more modules per the FSM diagnostics, which would be pricey and they weren't certain they could narrow it down efficiently or effectively. This was the largest independent Subaru shop in the state. They said I "seemed pretty knowledgeable" and suggested I take it back and run through the diagnostic trees myself to save myself from pointless labor costs. Their only thoughts were that it was somewhere in wiring because Subaru modules tend to be pretty solid units... With the whole lower portion of the dash except radio unit and center console is out but haven't seen any fault in the wiring. I do have a suspicion of something spilling in the G force/yaw rate sensor under the center console so I will try replacing that once the weather clears up, been about 2°F here lately
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I wish it was that simple. Pulled the G force sensor and it doesn't have any VISUAL signs of damage but can't say its good for sure yet
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