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Discussion Starter #1
Doing my 2008 Outback pads/rotors. I see that they are sometimes hard to remove rotors. I know there are lots of guys here who know the steps and tricks to remove stuborn rotors. Are the caliper bracket bolt tough too?

Is a 8MM bolt the standard for the center screws that help force rotors off?
I ve done many brakes jobs on other cars and never had trouble with the rotors just coming off. Subaru s must be different.

Someone once posted a bolt and nut method that I can t find either.
 

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do '08s still have the ebrake inside the 'hat' on the rear rotors? if so,you will need to back-off the e-brake adjusters in the rear to prevent any hang-up from the ebrake shoes I think. Of course, make sure the ebrake isn't set when doing those too.

you might check out a coupla videos;

subaru rotor - YouTube
 

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Yes 2 8mm bolts gets it off easy, or did for me. Unless you drove with the ebrake on, there shouldn't be any need to back it off since the shoes shouldn't wear a groove if the drum/rotor isn't turning (unlike the old drum style rear brakes which were both ebrake and rear brake).

Tom
 

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bolts through the holes is the most consistent way. have two bolts handy - if they're really hard to get off the first bolt will be ruined - the intiial threads and it won't fit a second time. or have 4 bolts handy for both sides.

coat the back side of new rotor and the hub mating surface with anti seize to prevent future issues.
 

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Some penetrating oil around at the hub and then driving out the rotor using the two threaded screw holes, evenly, going back and forth until the thing falls off.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Got everything done today. 4 brakes and rotors. Took a few hours and rotors came off with the use of the two 8MM screws. Was able to use the same two screws for all four rotors. The hardest part was the rear cailper bracket as you need just the right setup of tools to get into the resessed nuts and they where tight. Did not have to touch the e brake. Other than that I beded them and they are smooth and really bite when applied I went with Raybestos premium brakes and rotor. Thanks for the tips.
 

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cool! second mention i've seen of those rear caliper bracket bolts being annoying, I haven't had to touch one yet.

wanna ship your old rotors to me! LOL
 

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I recently did mine as well. I did the driver's side with a hammer. Then I went to Homedepot and bought appropriate 8mm bolts... much easier and a lot less rust on my garage floor.

But I am now getting a rather loud grinding noise when I am at 20% brake pedal pressure (enough braking force to gradually slow down). The noise completely goes away with more brake pedal pressure. I thought it was a rock. So I took the caliper off, cleaned the rotor/pad and reinstalled, but noise is still there. Did I not bed the pads/rotors hard enough? I have about 400 miles on the new pads/rotors.
 

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Good for you, you did the work, that is the nicest feeling! I got to thinking that, in a pinch, a 12 Gauge Shotgun with 3" Magnum Rifled-Slugs should remove the rotors in a hurry. I'm not sure they'll be worth much, but at least you can quickly remove them!
 

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I recently did mine as well. I did the driver's side with a hammer. Then I went to Homedepot and bought appropriate 8mm bolts... much easier and a lot less rust on my garage floor.

But I am now getting a rather loud grinding noise when I am at 20% brake pedal pressure (enough braking force to gradually slow down). The noise completely goes away with more brake pedal pressure. I thought it was a rock. So I took the caliper off, cleaned the rotor/pad and reinstalled, but noise is still there. Did I not bed the pads/rotors hard enough? I have about 400 miles on the new pads/rotors.
Where did you buy the parts? Some cheap pads don't fit proper and the friction material will overlap the rotor edge causing noise. Also, loose, misaligned or missing hardware will allow noise. Cheap rotors will make noise as they are not manufactured to spec for heat dissipation/wear.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
cool! second mention i've seen of those rear caliper bracket bolts being annoying, I haven't had to touch one yet.

wanna ship your old rotors to me! LOL
Because no one around my area cuts rotors I put the old ones with the garbage. They wouldn t take them, so I droppped them off at my local parts store. I couldn t get rid of them. I wish someone was close that could have used them. Being in the salt belt I can not stress enough that the 8MM bolts are the way to go!! Thanks to all.
 

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Just a comment on the rear parking brake (mini drum within the hat of the rear disk). If you have previously adjusted the shoes to be pretty close to the drum, AND if a rust ridge builds up at the outer edge (common occurrence in an area with a lot of road salt), you may have to back off the shoes before pulling the rotors off. If you don't and the ridge catches the shoes, you will damage the retaining hardware and be in for another hour or two of basic rebuilding. I went thru this on a Camry with a similar rear setup many years back, and learned the importance of this step when servicing my OBW.
 

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Where did you buy the parts? Some cheap pads don't fit proper and the friction material will overlap the rotor edge causing noise. Also, loose, misaligned or missing hardware will allow noise. Cheap rotors will make noise as they are not manufactured to spec for heat dissipation/wear.
I only changed the front pads and rotors. Rears were done at a Les Schwab 10k miles ago. The brakes bite very well when more than 20% pressure is applied.

I bought pads/rotors from rockauto
pads: MONROE Part # CX929
More Information for MONROE CX929
rotors: RAYBESTOS Part# 980141R
More Information for RAYBESTOS 980141R
 
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