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Discussion Starter #1
Hi ! Its me again !!

Have a flaky window switch, unfortunately...its the drivers window. I 'm sure I probably have to replace the switch. Before I start hacking into this, has anyone ever taken the door panel off, or replaced anything in the drivers door switch assm ?

Also....does anyone have any experience in using and NON-Subaru repair manual ? Haynes, clymer, etc. ?

Its a 2000 Outback Limited Sedan.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Ed
 

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Ed,

I don't have experience with taking the door panel off, yet, but have also been having issues with my power windows.

The front passenger can raise their window, but not lower it. The rear passenger side can lower but not raise. Usually, I still retain full control from the drivers seat, however, my ability to raise the front passenger window has been intermittent lately and I'm afraid one of these times it may not raise at all.

It seems to me that I may have switch issues as well as possibility a bad connection on the window motor.

Is this similar to the difficulties you're facing? Anyone else seen this before? Anyone have a wiring diagram for the power window system?

Thanks, and good luck to you Ed,

Seth
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes !!
My problem is the window will go down fine....wont go up unless you jiggle the switch, pull up hard, or otherwise get lucky. I am convinced it is the switch, and not the motor. One you get the window to start coming up, it works fine. Hopefully someone will have a tip on getting that door panel off, or loose enough to get to the switches. I just dont wanna break something when I get aggravated, and cant get the **** thing off !!

Any help out there??? :)

Ed
 

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Ed--

i've just been pulling my door panels off many times in the course of installing a monster stereo. you don't have to pull whole door panel to replace switch assy.

look down into the recess in the inside door handle where your fingers go to pull door closed. you'll see a small nub in the center. look closer and you'll see it's a cap hiding the screw underneath. tiny flat blade screwdriver will let you pop it up and voila, there's the #2 Phillips screw that retains the switch assy. then there's 1 or 2 multipin plugs that will be tough to undo even with the "latch" that holds em together depressed. Bad news is that all switches for power windows are combined into one plate in drivers door, and i doubt Sub sells switches separately from the panel. :rolleyes: i'm guesing close to $200 for complete panel. ebay? i'd love to be wrong on this part.

i agree that yr symptoms sound like glitchy switchy and not motor.

on manuals, yes, i've used the Haynes for the late 90s Legacy for sevl years and love it, just as i do the Haynes for every other vehicle i've owned. at only $14-16, it's a great investment. I have recently gotten an 02 OBS, which it doesn't apply to, but i bought another copy of the Legacy manual (ex got the old one along with the Legacy) because it's so **** good and because Sub tends to do things the same way on a lot of its models, sort of an engineering philosophy thing not to mention parts interchangeability. Clymer manuals by comparison suck. since i own 5 or 6 different manuals for 2 of my vehicles (the BMW 2002 and the VW camper), incl several from Blighty that ain't sold here, i think have a base for comparison. Haynes is also better than the things they sell on CD-Rom on ebay; i have one and i'm not impressed. in an ideal world, i'd have both the Haynes and the multivolume multihundred dollar factory manual. good luck and let me know if i can help further. yopu can find some good fotos of disassmebled doors in gallery section of iaperformance.com website....they walk you through installing big stereo. i'd still be trying to figure out how to get the console faceplate off without em.

bw
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Man !! Thanks for all the information !! I really appreciate it. I am about to go out to the garage and check out what you said. Im bummed about the price of the switch assm, but was expecting the worse. I figured the bastards would put all the switches into one assembly !! LOL ! I have purchased factory manuals for many cars, and motorcycles, and have never seen one that costs over $200. Thats nuts !!

Again....thanks a lot for all the info, and for your quick reply.

I will update on all the details !

Ed
 

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[
I have purchased factory manuals for many cars, and motorcycles, and have never seen one that costs over $200. Thats nuts !!
i kinda agree, except it's a multivolume loose leaf set that is apparently super detailed. the factory manual for the bimmer went for $76, in 1982. suspect it's part of overall trend by mfgrs to make it easier for owners to bring it to the dlr instead of workin on it themselves.

since the power windows are part of the same assy, i may be wrong on having to get the entire plate. indiv switches may snap in and out; never tried.

glad to be of some help, that's what it's all about, sharing knowledge for the common good. i once got noises on startup of the ole Legacy that made me firmly convinced i had major internal engine destruction....i was lookin on ebay for prices on replacement engine. got on this site, learn3ed if was the cam belt tensioner bolt that failed, replaced for abt $9 plus drilling out and extracting theremainsof old bolt. howling lujah.

bw
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Called the dealer today. The drivers door switches are all on one assembly. My cost at dealer....$95.30. I found a wholesale Subaru parts dealer on the internet...www.1stsubaruparts.com. I think the one I want is $77 there. Not too bad. I will let you ( and all others) know how the replacement went after I do it this weekend.

Thanks again !

Ed
 

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and you've answered one of my long term Qs, abt where to find dealer-only parts cheaper. what was i saying abt mutual assistance...?? thanks! :6:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I was wrong on the price...

Its $58 ! The reguar selling price is 90 to 100 bucks. This website rocks ! shipping wil cost about 9 to 12 bucks...but its still a great deal. Its a dealership in Seattle...genuine Subaru parts..

We will see how it all works out when I finally get the part, but so far it looks good.

I will update.

Ed
 

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you oughta post the info abt them on one of the general-info and/or recommendation fourms here. i bet a lot of people don't know abt them and wd be glad to find out.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thats a good idea ! I was planning on doin that, when I see how everything plays out. I want to make sure before I recommend them, that the whole thing works out ok. It is a great alternative to paying huge dealer mark ups if it isnt something you need immediately. The internet stuff works great if you can wait a few days for delivery. Believe it or not....the closest Subaru dealer for me (southwest burbs of Chicago) is at least 25 miles away. And since they both close at 6pm, its tough for me to get there after work. So....unless its an emergency, the internet thing works just fine for me...plus I save lots of money !! I just hope I dont break anything trying to put this part on. Any time you gotta take a door panel, dashboard apart...it seems there is always some little piece of plastic, or clip thing that ends up getting broken. I will detail the info on the switch install when I get it done...probably sometime during the next week.

Ed
 

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Ed--

one thing i forgot to mentionthat might help keep you from breakin tabs etc: there is a tab holding the switch assy panel into the armrest at the front. once you've gotten retaining screw out, you want to gently pry it up from the REAR. also, thinnish but stiff blade putty knife instead of screwdriver for the pryin process will help reduce dmg.

you hit it on the nose on dlrs: by the time i can schedule a trip to our local dlr (note singular, next nearest is in ABQ, 250+ miles away), the part could be here if ordered promptly. this employment nonsense really cuts into my car work time, ya know?

bw
 

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Hi!

I have a similar problem to ChicagoEd's and I'd like to get at the switch assembly in the driver's side door to diagnose/replace it.

Can someone please provide instructions/experiences with getting the switch assembly out on a 1996 Outback? Haynes provides instructions for taking off the entire interior panel, which I would rather not do. Cptoversteer's directions got me started, but I wasn't able to follow.

Thanks in advance...my summer passengers will thank you for the working windows. :)

Seth
 

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My switches work OK but the black plastic cover broke off the driver's window switch, and now I'm used to just hooking it with a fingernail and making it work anyway.

I tried two or three types of glue to fix it, not a chance.
 

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2011 drivers side window

Just fixed my 2011 Suby Outback drivers side window. It would go down about half way and stop and would only go back up to within about an inch from the top. Took the door panel off and discovered that the vertical door lock rod, which is positioned on the weather side of the glass, had come detached from the door latch assembly and fallen into the up/down path of the glass, thus causing the window to only go half way down, and forced the glass off track just enough to cause the vertical rubber seal, at the rear of the glass, to become jammed in the track, not allowing the glass to go up all the way and causing the motor to labor. Reattached the vertical lock rod to the door latch assembly and repositioned seal so the it straddles the glass in the track. All is good now.
 
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