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2006 Outback 2.5 Ltd
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Discussion Starter #1
Getting acquainted with my 06 wagon... one discovery is that at some previous point the engine oil drain plug was cross threaded; now when the plug is fully tightened, the head does not meet the oil pan evenly but contacts at an angle (due to the damaged threads in the pan). I hadn’t noticed this or found any leak when bought the car due to the plug being cranked down waaaay hard (glove box receipts confirm: thank you Jiffy Lube).

The first oil change there wasn’t an apparent issue, but after the second oil change (when also installing a Fumoto valve) I realized that even with a good crush washer it’s seeping. It doesn’t drip but the pan is always wet with oil now...

Has anyone else successfully dealt with this issue?
 

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2016 Outback Premium 2.5, Ice Silver
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893 Posts
The Fumoto Valve is not to be tightened way hard! You may need to go back to the original plug.
 

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2013 Outback 2.5i Convenience
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1,319 Posts
(glove box receipts confirm: thank you Jiffy Lube).

Has anyone else successfully dealt with this issue?
1. This is why it's a good idea to thread something in by hand, practically impossible to destroy threads. Given the receipt, no surprise there.

Haven't had this issue (finger-tight threading).
Options:
Certainly going back to the plug.

Get a new oil pan and install it.

This one will certainly be mickey-mousing it, but I'd try some JB-Weld putty and the Fumoto. Requirements would be to drain, loosen the Fumoto and clean the surfaces very well. Mix some putty and roll to a long thin length (think worm) and wrap it around the fumoto thread a few times until it's larger than the fumoto diameter. Snug up the valve. Shape the JB-Weld to it seals up everything. Add a bit more so it wraps around the drain hole nut and press it well.

Let cure, refill the oil, and see if she leaks. If it leaks, you're back to the other 2 options!
 

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OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
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12,391 Posts
It's common enough you can google your options.

You can replace the oil pan.

Many people install oversized plugs in this situation. Not sure if you can do that with fumoto.

Without seeing it personally it's hard to say how bad the threads are damaged and how much we have to work with.

Personally if the threads are holding and present and not torn to shreds - I would chase the existing drain hole threads with a tap and chase the drain plug/Fumoto valve threads with a die and install it with a new crush washer and sealant around the threads. It's either going to hold - and then never need removed again, or be loose and leak. I would rather just fix it permanently with properly angled threads or have it leak and then go to step #2.

If it's currently holding tension - then installing as-is with sealant would be an option since it'll never need removed again.

A wild attempt or temporary trial might be to use two crush washers with the sealant as well to take up that gap if you're not concerned by the angle.
 

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2003 OBW 2.5L 4EAT
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860 Posts
You can also install a Time Sert thread insert or a Heli Coil to keep the existing thread size & pitch. If you go this route, due to having to drill the hole out, you will have to flush pan of any debris. Pour some cheap oil in and drain it out without starting the engine & install a magnetic drain plug to catch the remaining fine debris. After that you can go back to the Fumoto etc...

Also if you install the Fumoto again (that is if the threads on it are also not damaged from being install at an angle), I'd recommend putting some black oil resistant RTV on the threads, the fiber crush washer that comes with it is known to leak.
 

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2006 Outback 2.5 Ltd
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Discussion Starter #6
If it's currently holding tension - then installing as-is with sealant would be an option since it'll never need removed again.

A wild attempt or temporary trial might be to use two crush washers with the sealant as well to take up that gap if you're not concerned by the angle.
It is holding solid tension thus far, so I think after all options I will try this first and see how it holds out. The angle is not huge - when hand tightened down, one side of the head contacts the oil pan and the other has about 1/16th inch (max) gap. If the crush washer/ sealant combo works then I'll consider myself lucky; other wise, it'll be time to start chasing down through some of the other suggestions.


Gracias!!
 
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