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Discussion Starter #1
While attempting to replace my brake pads and rotors, I came across a bolt into the slide pin I could not free. The top came out as it should have, but the bottom one is buggered into the slide pin. I used a pipe extension to try to break it free, but the slide pin ended up rotating past the mount and now there's no edge against which it can torque. I blame northeast weather and salt for the corrosion, and I will end up replacing the pins and the mount, but I still need a way to get the bolt out of the pin. I've tried pb blaster, bashing it with a hammer, inserting a flat edge screwdriver between the pin for torque, but nothing holds it enough to break the bolt free. Has anyone had to deal with this issue or has any ideas to free the bolt? Some pictures of it are attached.

Edit: 2001 outback 2.5 if it matters for some reason
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I will try some vice grips tomorrow. I don't own a pair myself or I would have tried them. An adjustable pliers didn't do the trick (unsurprisingly, they're useless), but my largest wrench, 17mm or 19mm, I forget which, didn't fit around the flat edges of the pin.
 

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2017 OutBack Premier, 2019 Forester Ltd, 2016 370z Rdstr
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finalultima12,

Use a propane torch, but don't use a blue propane tank, but use a yellow Map Gas tank instead. Map gas burns much hotter than propane, and may be just enough heat to expand the caliper mount around the pin and break the rust free.

I've used this method successfully a few times to break rusted bolts free, but you'll still need the wrench and vice grips. Be prepared for that rubber boot over the pin to melt though, so you'll need to replace it if it goes to goo. Good Luck!
 

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'01 OBW 3.0 VDC 184,000 Miles '19 OB 2.5 Base <2,000 Miles - Formerly '14 Impreza Sedan 2.0 5spd 66,000 Miles at trade-in
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A proper sized wrench and a hammer. Place the wrench on the bolt and smack that ho with the hammer, should help shock Nature's Loctite loose. I had to do that exact thing a week ago. All the torquing in the world wouldn't budge, needed the shock. I'll upload a pic of my bugger bolt in a minute
 

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2008 Outback 2.5
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Kroil, ATF/Acetone or some other penetrant is also good stuff to creep into the joint when smacking it. The heat, shock and penetrant should do the trick but it may take a while plus some waiting between attempts to finally get it done. Also be careful not to ignite anything with the flame and volatile fluids.
:9:
 

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2019 Subaru Forester Premium, Crystal Black Silica, Pkg 15
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Wow. That's insane. Maybe I'll replace the bolts when I do my pads, surely it'll only add a few dollars to the cost. Is there an anti-seize or anti-corrosion type spec for them?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well vice grips did the trick. Now I can't get the caliper mounting bolts off because of the odd access hole angle and how rusted they are
 

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2001 Outback 5 speed, 2000 Outback Automatic, 2002 Legacy Wagon Automatic. All 2.5L
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Kroil, ATF/Acetone or some other penetrant is also good stuff to creep into the joint when smacking it. The heat, shock and penetrant should do the trick but it may take a while plus some waiting between attempts to finally get it done. Also be careful not to ignite anything with the flame and volatile fluids.
:9:
Kroil & a 48 hour soak usually does the trick
 

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06 OBW 2.5, 05 Forester, had 03 H6 OBW
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I eagerly await the day when I use kroil or another penetrant and actually have it do something to help break a bolt loose.

Now, once it's been cracked loose, it's valuable stuff to help get the rusty ******* off without additional trauma.

But I have never, ever, except maybe once, had even lengthy application do a darn thing to help it come loose.
 
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