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2004 Outback H4 5 speed manual
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You're going to need to replace your coolant at the same time (unless you're pinching off the hoses, in which case you're going to need to top off the coolant). This means either Subaru coolant, or third party coolant plus the Subaru additive. I'd also get some blue threadlock for the idlers (but I'm anal about stuff like that). You might want to have some liquid gasket around as well. Oh and if you still have the original radiator hose clamps on there, replace them with normal screw clamps.

As for the thermostat, I've read a couple of times on these forums that it's worth sticking to the OEM thermostat. If you've already ordered the Stat one, oh well, I wouldn't sweat it.

No special tools are needed, although the subaru wrench to remove the crank bolt will make getting the drive gear off a lot easier. If you don't have the subaru wrench, there's a trick using the starter to break it loose, or sticking it in third and stepping on the brake to hold it steady. Other than that, there's just the 10mm and 12mm sockets for most of it (and a 22mm for the drive gear, if I remember correctly).

This is a great walkthrough of the process. Meatys Timing Belt Changing Guide - NASIOC

Good luck.
 

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2008 Ford Escape XLS - 2002 Subaru Outback
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246 Posts
New plugs, air filter and all fluid change aswell. Getting a new fuel filter wouldn't be a bad idea at all either. You can do all of those for around $50-75.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Would you recommend any specific type or brand of plug? lol

Edit I was watching the video you posted and am happy I do not need to remove half that stuff like the radiator because thats video is of a WRX and I have alot more room between the engine and radiator
 

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2014 OBW 3.6R Limited, 1997 OBW 2.5L Auto (sold, but not forgotten), and 1991 Ford F150
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1,525 Posts
Would you recommend any specific type or brand of plug? lol
NGK plugs only. Subaru specs NGK platinums in the owners manual. These should get you at least 60k miles before they need replacing.

With other brands, some may work OK, but many create problems and misfires, thus I'd only use NGK.

You didn't ask about spark plug wires, but the only ones that are consistently reliable in our cars are NGK and OEM Subaru.

What year is your car?

NGK Spark Plugs USA
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Its a 2000 The plug wires look like they were done fairly recently...
also what about fluid brands? probably doesn't matter to much does it?
 

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2014 OBW 3.6R Limited, 1997 OBW 2.5L Auto (sold, but not forgotten), and 1991 Ford F150
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1,525 Posts
also what about fluid brands? probably doesn't matter to much does it?
IMO, fluid brands are not so important as getting the right type of fluid in the proper weight or viscosity for your car. Other than that, it's pretty hard to go wrong with any of the name-brand fluids. I tend to stay away from store brands, but that's more prejudice than anything. Wal-Mart is a good place to get name-brand fluids at (usually) the best everyday price.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah while I'm there I'm also gonna grab a few extra keys I got 1 made and it only cost 1.64 so I might as well have a few extras lol
 

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2013 Subaru Outback.
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83 Posts
I changed my waterpump while it was apart as well cause you may sneak by but you never know when that little bugger is going to go and its right there in the depths of the timing belt as well.
 

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2008 Ford Escape XLS - 2002 Subaru Outback
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Wall-Mart's Super Tech oil killed my 97' Outback. Once the engine got hot, it turned into water, it broke down way cooler then better oil. A Subaru mechanic also agreed with me on the cause of engine failure. Rotella or OEM is what I stick with. I agree with NGK aswell -
 

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OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
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12,385 Posts
wow, sorry to hear about the engine.

I am *not* trying to change your mind, I am not trying to argue or debate or even thinking about you at all really. i'm writing for everyone else - the many readers of this forum, many of which are new to Subaru's, don't know this particular motor (more on that later), need statistically relevant information or aren't mechanically inclined - this diagnosis is highly unlikely and wouldn't hold any water for most mechanics.

it is more than likely that this motor experienced a very typical EJ25 engine failure. they have significant issues, all of which can be searched on google.

Wall-Mart's Super Tech oil killed my 97' Outback.
that is highly unlikely and 100% speculative. nearly every mechanic would say this is a very suspect diagnosis.

Wall-Mart's Super Tech oil killed my
if that were the case there would be legions of engines being killed. your EJ25D doesn't push any limits. all the jokers running lifted rigs, racing, auto crossing, towing serious equipment, boats, work vehicles, etc - run much higher loads and temps and there is no sign of vasts numbers of engines getting junked by oil.

killed my 97' Outback.
that motor is hands down the worst motor Subaru ever made. they blow headgaskets all the time and due to the mode by which they fail (pushing exhaust gases into the coolant) they overheat randomly which often leads to multiple and excessive overheats - this leads to this motor having common rod bearing failures too. and they have piston slap and burn exhaust valves because of the annoying shim-bucket valve design that no one wants to even try to adjust on their own......etc. you can search all of these terms and EJ25D on google and see the vastness of these issues - common.

again - not trying to change your mind, you will no doubt be completely annoyed at my response as you recall the nightmare of dealing with that vehicle, i'm just trying to help future readers.
 

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2008 Ford Escape XLS - 2002 Subaru Outback
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The engine had zero head gasket issues, zero cooling issues before the oil change. Didn't even have a valve tick. Take a spoon full and heat it up with a torch or even a lighter, it will heat up and turn water like much much quicker then Rotella did. Multiple people have agreed, my boss who has a Supercharged GM motor ran Super Tech once, and the engine blew. Only a few days apart from my motor failure. Perhaps it was a "bad batch" of oil or something. But the cause was the oil.
 

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01 VDC, 05 R Sedan, 06 BAJA EJ257
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16,305 Posts
Any engine failure can be contributed to:

Poor maintenance
Poor quality gasolines
Poor quality lubricants
Parts failure due to poor maintenance, i.e. "I thought the noise would go away", or my favorite, "It just needs a sensor, but runs fine". DUH.

I have owned many Subarus, along with other brands, and never had a problem with the 2.2, 2.5 or current 3.0. All went well over 150k without major repairs, the 2.5 rolled 300k before it got totaled with only schedule maintenance and occasional Alternator. Went to salvage with the original AC compressor blowing snowballs.

Its a good adage: You get what you pay for; and, Your results may vary.
 
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