[josrulz]

Hi all,
I'm totally new here, so if there's a thread on this, please send me there. I'm new to Subaru, but am very much interested in an Outback XT Limited, manual. I've driven one and definitely liked it. Not as quick off the line as I'd like, but plenty of power once you're up and going. Interior seems nicer to me than the new generation in many respects. Anyway...

My question is this... what do I need to look out for on these cars? The one I drove happens to have 80k+ miles on it, which is a bit higher than I'd prefer. What starts to "go" around then? Is there a timing belt? How long does the turbo last (on average)? Other things I need to know?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
-J

 

[ScoobyRu]

I don't have an XT, but I went through a debate of buying an XT in North Carolina, or a 2.5i in New York, both Limited models. I chose the one in New York, mainly because I already have a sports car, a friend of mine has an XT that ate a rod bearing at 120,000 miles, and the mileage is better with the 2.5i. If you search these forums, you'll see that some of the XT's have spun rod bearings very early in their life. Bottom line: You pay for speed. How much are you willing to spend?

To answer your other question, yes, all the 4cyl (gas) Outbacks have timing belts. I think they all share the same 105,000 mile change interval too.

Other things that may go at this age: CV boots. If you're luck you'll catch the tear while driving on the highway. If you're like me, you won't discover the tear until you're washing mud off the car, despite having checked the drive line the weekend before during the oil change. If that happens then you need to change the whole axle.

 

[Nelson]

Obxt

I purchased an OBXT.07 last year with 47k miles, I like the car and have made some changes to it. Like all cars you will find that there are some short comings with the XT. Some say the turbo doesn't last that long other say it does. Some say the struts are crap some say they work great. The thing that I always look for is service records, see if and when they did the oil cahnges, 30K service, 60K service, brakes, tires. The better the records than at least you'll know the car was cared for. As for torn boots, the one on the turbo side goes due to the heat, I replaced the boot and not the axle, it did not need to be replaced, as long as you catch it sooner than later.

As for the OBXT I find the power to be enough for the type of car that it is. I certainly drive it hard, and I make sure I maintain it. I do oil changes every 3750 miles, and I check between oil changes to make sure the level is right. I use a good synethic oil. It's like anything if the car was well taken care of from the begining that it should last, but it is a machine and things due break.

Nelson

 

[WagesOfZin]

there is tons of info here regarding these cars. just scroll through the first few pages of threads. here are a couple topics to search the forum for as well:

banjo bolt
synthetic oil XT
premium fuel XT
replace timing belt
blown turbo
replace cv boot
new to me XT

that's a good start. the more extensive the service records on the car, the better. if you can't find any or enough, track down the subaru dealerships where the car was previously registered and see if they have any records for the VIN number.

 

[kentajeff]

I have a 2009 Outback XT Manual, bought it last year with 25k on it. As I made this decision, honestly it came down to I wanted one, so I got one. But I have two coworkers that both had engine failures in there Legacy GT's at around 100k. I dont know how well they cared for them though? So I am just religious on the oil change, also I have been using Mobil 1. I think the turbo banjo issue is more related to oil maintance than anything else, if you allow too much soot to build in the oil it could plug this or at least aid in plugging. The oil change is required twice as often as the naturally asperated engine (non-turbo), 3750 miles versus ~7500 miles. So figure that into your cost of ownership decision if you care about that.

Here is another thing to consider. The gas mileage isnt great (and we even drive it in the Intelligent mode), and it requires premimum fuel.

So just oil and fuel it is a more expensive veichle to operate, so just be aware of that.

This is my third Subaru, kept the last one 9 years (traded the first one in only after a couple years and curse the day I did that) and had ZERO issues with it, or the first one. So I believe with proper maintance you will be ok with this car. So far the XT has also had no issues, we now have ~36k on it. My other car is a 2002 Volvo S60 AWD that I bought new, it also has been a good car, BUT the subaru is a superior car from a reliability standpoint.

Good luck with your seach, I spent considerable time looking and ended up driving 10 hours to get mine.

 

[Seabass]

Don't use the mobil 1 5w30. It's been linked to several engine failures and shears down very quickly. It's an energy conserving oil and will end up a 20 weight very quickly. Their other oils are good, just not that one.

 

[josrulz]

Thanks everyone. I'm certainly not afraid of used cars, but it's helpful to have more specific knowledge of what to look for. Thanks again!

 

[kduchow]

Don't use the mobil 1 5w30. It's been linked to several engine failures and shears down very quickly. It's an energy conserving oil and will end up a 20 weight very quickly. Their other oils are good, just not that one.

Well, drat, that's what I've been using. Here I thought I was doing good going with the synthetic. Do you have a preference for another brand? (I've followed your posts long enough to take a recommendation.)

 

[Bimmer]

Some say the struts are crap some say they work great.

The suspension is the same for all '05-09 Outback models (only front springs are different), so it's not an XT vs. 2.5i issue.

You would be the first one to say that the OEM struts "work great."

 

[Seabass]

Well, drat, that's what I've been using. Here I thought I was doing good going with the synthetic. Do you have a preference for another brand? (I've followed your posts long enough to take a recommendation.)

It's not necessarily the brand, but that particular oil. All of the other mobil 1 oils are great, just not the energy conserving 5w30. A lot of us use rotella t6 5w40 with good results, and it's cheap in comparison to most others. The mobil 1 5w40 is also very good. If you want a 5w30, you need to make sure it's a good one that won't shear down to a 20.

 

[Bimmer]

Well, drat, that's what I've been using. Here I thought I was doing good going with the synthetic. Do you have a preference for another brand?

It's not necessarily the brand, but that particular oil.

At moments like this, a little used oil analysis goes a long way.

Or, go to BITOG and look at other people's analyses.

FWIW, I'm using Mobil 1 0w40 these days. Several analyses have come back fine, though its viscosity is usually at or slightly below the line between 30 and 40 weight spec.

 

[Seabass]

+1

BITOG has lots of good things to say about the m1 0w40.

 

[kduchow]

Thanks for the recommendations and places to look for more info.