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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I'm about to rotate the tires on my daughter's Subie and I know I'm supposed to re-torque them after a few hundred miles. The issue is she is leaving for a long trip on Saturday (from NJ to Toronto). So, what should I do? Obviously, I won't be able to re-torque them in a few hundred miles since she'll be away. Should I wait until she gets back?

Thanks.
 

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2005 Outback R LL Bean 3.0 H6 w/ 5 speed sport shift
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Hi all,

I'm about to rotate the tires on my daughter's Subie and I know I'm supposed to re-torque them after a few hundred miles. The issue is she is leaving for a long trip on Saturday (from NJ to Toronto). So, what should I do? Obviously, I won't be able to re-torque them in a few hundred miles since she'll be away. Should I wait until she gets back?

Thanks.
I have rechecked after a period and I've never found mine to need to be re-torqued. Just make certain you have the back of the wheel and the hub mating surfaces clean, you should be fine.
If you by any chance got the tires at Discount Auto, they'll do it for free.
Otherwise, sometimes it's better to leave working things alone before you start out on a long trip and take care of it when you are back home.
 

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Rotate them today, drive the car as much as possible this week and retorque just before she leaves.
I also concur that I have never found them to loosen after installation when the nuts were correctly tightened.

I always try to avoid doing any maintenance work just before leaving for a road trip. It is best to get some miles in between to wring out any collateral problems that may have been introduced. Same idea as trying any equipment before taking it camping.
 

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you could make sure they are tight before she leaves, and then make sure they are tight after she comes back.

_____

and make sure she knows how to change a tire safely, if she can't safely get some help.

limp car to where it is safe to change, ...like with a hard surface for the jack, where on one will die changing a tire.


____

I try to keep a length of old pipe in the back of the cars to use as a breaker bar.
(happens to be the 2 sections of a old aluminum shower curtain rod).

I actually have some old lug nuts in the back of the cars. personally I never lost any, but they are there.

a 12volt inflator, a tire plug kit, and a lithium ion jump pack.

I have loaned my inflator to people that could not get a rim off, and the tire was deformed and leaking at the bead.
(car could be driven across the country, just had to air up the bum tire every 20 minutes,)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, I'm changing her oil before she leaves and it would be easier to rotate the tires at the same time.

However, I'll see if she's willing to re-torque the wheels on her trip. Otherwise, I'll wait for her to return.
 

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Beware that 're-torquing' is not all about the lugnuts getting loose. It is equally important that the lugnuts are ALL THE SAME TORQUE. Otherwise, brake-rotor warping can be a problem.

If you have ALUMINUM wheels, retorquing is considered REQUIRED (The nature of aluminum tends to 'squirm' under pressure and should be retorqued.) my Impreza with steel wheels does not really need retorqung.

Also beware, that the process of retorquing is not just snugging things up.... it is more like "loosen and re-torque". (one nut at a time) Otherwise, the static friction may fool your torque wrench into thinking things are just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Loosen and re-torque and getting rusted wheels off!

Beware that 're-torquing' is not all about the lugnuts getting loose. It is equally important that the lugnuts are ALL THE SAME TORQUE. Otherwise, brake-rotor warping can be a problem.

If you have ALUMINUM wheels, retorquing is considered REQUIRED (The nature of aluminum tends to 'squirm' under pressure and should be retorqued.) my Impreza with steel wheels does not really need retorqung.

Also beware, that the process of retorquing is not just snugging things up.... it is more like "loosen and re-torque". (one nut at a time) Otherwise, the static friction may fool your torque wrench into thinking things are just fine.
My Subie has the aluminum wheels and definitely requires re-torquing. My daughter's car has steel wheels.

I've never loosened the nuts and re-torqued them. I've always just re-tightened them with the torque wrench. Most don't move. A few will snug up an 1/8 turn or less. Is loosening and re-tightened really required and recommended?

As a side note, I did do the rotation as my daughter said she would re-torque them on her trip. In any case, I had a heck of a hard time getting two of the wheels off. I kicked them and nothing. I had to drop the car quickly with loosened nuts on one and had to drive a few feet back and forth to get the other off. Argh! Should have taken me 10 minutes and instead took over an hour! Also, I somehow messed up one of the lug studs and had to replace it. Not a good day!
 

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I've never loosened the nuts and re-torqued them. I've always just re-tightened them with the torque wrench. Most don't move. A few will snug up an 1/8 turn or less.
Same here, never heard of loosening and retorquing. Sounds like starting over, and would then require another retorque after a few miles.

I'm at 82,000 miles on my 2013, rotated my BFG KOs every 3000 miles, and other tires every 5000, and never have had any lugs rotate further after the 1st retorque after 50-100 miles.
 

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In many years of driving, this is my opinion: Re Torquing is necessary. But, not in a couple of hundred miles. More like 20-30 miles. I can not even come close to count the number of times I've had Aluminum wheels off/on our many different cars. Winter/summer changes on multiple cars. Brake Jobs,ect.

I've always retorqued after 20-30 miles. Some of the nuts rotate a little. Others do not. After 100 miles. If any of them rotate, it's hardly perceptible.
 

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My Subie has the aluminum wheels and definitely requires re-torquing. My daughter's car has steel wheels.

I've never loosened the nuts and re-torqued them. I've always just re-tightened them with the torque wrench. Most don't move. A few will snug up an 1/8 turn or less. Is loosening and re-tightened really required and recommended?

As a side note, I did do the rotation as my daughter said she would re-torque them on her trip. In any case, I had a heck of a hard time getting two of the wheels off. I kicked them and nothing. I had to drop the car quickly with loosened nuts on one and had to drive a few feet back and forth to get the other off. Argh! Should have taken me 10 minutes and instead took over an hour! Also, I somehow messed up one of the lug studs and had to replace it. Not a good day!

every time I take a wheel off, I use aluminum paste on the brake where it touches.



on cars that are new to me sometimes I have had to spray penetrating oil between the brake and the wheel or on a lug that is stuck.


on a passer by's shredded tire I enlisted the help of another neighbor who use to be a diesel truck mechanic, and he used a 5lb steel hammer to get her aluminum rim off her suzuki sx4. (I was filling her spare and ruining my jump it pack's crap air pump at the time).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
every time I take a wheel off, I use aluminum paste on the brake where it touches.
Is the aluminum paste just for aluminum wheels or steel wheels, too?

I'm afraid to use any kind of lube near the brakes. I would like to put something between the wheel and rotor to make life easier.
 

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I've always done retorques after about 50 miles. Most of the time they are tight but I have occasionally had one or more of the lug nuts move a little when I did the retorque. I think a couple of hundred miles is too far. If they are going to loosen up at all it most likely would happen long before that and potentially cause damage to the wheel or studs or even fall completely off.

Best move would be to rotate them earlier and try to get some miles on it locally before her trip. If that option doesn't work teach her to do the retorque herself and send along the torque wrench, or have her stop at a tire shop along the way and have them do it. Even if they charge for it the peace of mind would be worth it.
 

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Is the aluminum paste just for aluminum wheels or steel wheels, too?

I'm afraid to use any kind of lube near the brakes. I would like to put something between the wheel and rotor to make life easier.
NOT on the brake is...."braking",...

just on the surface where the wheel meets the brake,...trying to avoid getting any on the wheel studs.
(any little bit I get just gets wiped up off the stud with a napkin).

I use aluminum anti-seize paste, it works, that is what its made for, (lots of people on here use it).


a little 8oz jug of this lasts for me doing 2 cars with snows to 3 season wheel swaps, for YEARS.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80078-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Bottle/dp/B000FW7VGE/

...one of my mechanic buddies uses a copper type which is a little more expensive. (he uses it on more then wheels)

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-09128-Copper-Anti-Seize-Lubricant/dp/B000HBM8HU/
 

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Here is a pretty good video explaining how to keep your nuts snug.
==>


Keep in mind that there is NO NEED to lift the vehicle off of the ground if you do ONE AT A TIME. (like I mentioned in previous append)
 

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Seriously, people do that?
Of the hundred or so vehicles that I have installed wheels on I have NEVER retorqued lug nuts.
None of these vehicles ever had a lug nut come loose or anything warp.
I know because I see these vehicles again in 500 - 5000 miles again to check them out.
Set it and forget it!

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 

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Funny, I've never had a mechanic, dealer, or tire shop tell me to come back in for re-torquing. How did I ever survive?
 

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If you read your invoice, almost all will have a statement regarding re torquing.
 

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If you read your invoice, almost all will have a statement regarding re torquing.
Yea, we put that in our documentation. Usually it goes like this:
Idiot thinks 3/8 ratchet is suitable substitute for a 200 lb-ft torque wrench.
Part comes loose and causes damage or accident.
Idiot visits lawyer who threatens litigation.
Company settles because it's potentially cheaper, and has no bad press.
I now have to put yet another warning in instructions about using the correct tool, torque and re-torque, as well as decals with same warning attached to part.



Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 

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I know people who have had wheels come off after not re torquing. My Brother had it happen on a '73 Corolla.

It's pretty much standard operating procedure for most educated drivers/mechanics.
 
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