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Discussion Starter #1
Hello folks,
Did my first oil change in my 3.6R OB after the initial break in period. I poured in 6.9 quarts of 5w-30 synthetic oil as per manual recommendations. However, after parking my car on a level surface I've noticed that the oil dip stick shows only 2/3 of oil level between lower and upper hole marks. I added about a half quart more oil and went slightly over the top hole mark. Now I have a dilemma, should I drain that little excess of oil and settle on around 7 quarts for the next oil change, or just leave that oil level as it is and use around 7.4 quarts next time. Will that small oil overfill harm the H6 engine in any way? What is the real oil capacity for this engine?
Thanks in advance for any thoughts.
 

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How to check your oil

"Pull the dipstick back out and read the oil level on both sides of the dipstick. Dipsticks are marked with the optimal level. This can be indicated with a pair of pinholes, lines marked MAX (for maximum) and MIN (for minimum), the letters H (for high) and L (for low) or a crosshatched area on the dipstick. If the oil is within the crosshatching, between H and L, between MIN and MAX, or between the pinholes, then your oil level is acceptable. If oil does not reach the L, MIN, crosshatching, or lower pinhole, you will need to add oil."


In other words... you should not have added more oil... You were perfectly fine as it was. I'd take the extra out. Put some kind of cup under there so you know how much you are removing.
 

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I would recheck the level a coupla more times to confirm, but, if it truly is 'slightly' over the top mark, I'd leave it alone. I doubt our cars would exhibit any problems with 1/4 - 1/3 qt. 'overfill'.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
In other words... you should not have added more oil... You were perfectly fine as it was. I'd take the extra out. Put some kind of cup under there so you know how much you are removing.
I do most of engine work by myself, so I know how to check the oil level :D
I just never had a boxer H6 engine before and wasn't aware that it requires more oil than comparable V6 I serviced which required 5.5 quarts.
Also some confusing information about 8.5 US qt for 3.6R engines was posted on this site:
2011 Subaru Outback Research Page
and some different opinions in this thread:
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/104-gen-4-2010-present/27234-3-6r-oil-capacity.html

I installed Fumoto valve and drained the excess in the amount of 0.5 Qt.
Now it's perfectly in level with the top hole mark on the oil dip stick.
From now on as a guidance I'm going to use 7 quarts of Amsoil 5W-30 OE / Signature oil for my H6 :29:
 

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Have you heard that some folks are reusing their old oil for their old car?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Have you heard that some folks are reusing their old oil for their old car?
Yes, but you really have to be pressed pretty hard and maybe eat your last loath of bread before you resort to this reusing old oil thing.
Modern engine oil is a quite complicated cocktail of anti-wear, anti-binding, detergent and dispersants additives, corrosion inhibitors and many other things which make engines run better and longer. These additives and inhibitors deplete with time and mileage. Oil absorbs products of wear, tear, combustion and gets dirty regardless of the filter. Is it worth really to nickel-and-diming on the engine oil even for an old car? People who try to save some pennies on reusing their old oil by changing just the filter are just poor bottom feeders.
 

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How many miles do you have on your 3.6L?
I am planning to change mine early since I want anything that might have been circulating in the engine out.
Manual says 3K miles then 7.5K thereafter.
Love the car by the way I am very happy I bought the 3.6L...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
How many miles do you have on your 3.6L?
I am planning to change mine early since I want anything that might have been circulating in the engine out.
Manual says 3K miles then 7.5K thereafter.
Love the car by the way I am very happy I bought the 3.6L...
My 3.6R had 1015 miles on its clock when I changed its engine oil. Just about right after the initial break in period. The reason I did it before recommended 3K miles is that the oil was very muddy dark brown in color in comparison with its initial light honey color when I just got the car. Chemical analysis of the oil have shown a lot of micro particles of metal and products of oxidation. It was more acidic than an average plain dino used engine oil. You don't really want to run your engine with this crap in it. Subaru put a plain dino oil in my 3.6R, so I rightfully replaced it with Amsoil 5W-30 OE for the next 3K miles. The next 3K miles with all synthetic oil will condition the engine in its post-break-in period, and then I'm going to switch to my favorite Amsoil 5W-30 Signature for the life of the car and 5K oil change intervals. I'm very happy with my 3.6R as well, especially now when it runs much much smoother with the new synthetic oil :29:
 

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I plan to change mine around 1500 over to synthetic oil and run it for 3K then go to 7500 per change. I use Blackstone oil analysis so I will see how it does on the first 7500 and see how much TBN if left for protection.
I like you am a first believer in changing the oil early to get anything in there once the rings have setted themselves...
 

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My 3.6R had 1015 miles on its clock when I changed its engine oil. Just about right after the initial break in period. The reason I did it before recommended 3K miles is that the oil was very muddy dark brown in color in comparison with its initial light honey color when I just got the car. Chemical analysis of the oil have shown a lot of micro particles of metal and products of oxidation. It was more acidic than an average plain dino used engine oil. You don't really want to run your engine with this crap in it. Subaru put a plain dino oil in my 3.6R, so I rightfully replaced it with Amsoil 5W-30 OE for the next 3K miles. The next 3K miles with all synthetic oil will condition the engine in its post-break-in period, and then I'm going to switch to my favorite Amsoil 5W-30 Signature for the life of the car and 5K oil change intervals. I'm very happy with my 3.6R as well, especially now when it runs much much smoother with the new synthetic oil :29:
Wow, 7 qts of the Amsoil Signature 5/30 every 5k - you clearly are not on your last loaf of bread! Might as well at least go 7.5k. (FWIW, I have been an AMSOIL dealer since the mid-80's)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Wow, 7 qts of the Amsoil Signature 5/30 every 5k - you clearly are not on your last loaf of bread! Might as well at least go 7.5k. (FWIW, I have been an AMSOIL dealer since the mid-80's)
I have a preferred customer account with my local Amsoil distributor.
So I use Amsoil in every engine I've got to recoup that $20 annual membership fee. I like Amsoil adhering ability to metal surfaces. Sometimes you cannot even tell the true level of oil in your engine, because this oil just climbs up the dip stick quite a bit, due to its superior to other oils surface tension force. My only gripes are that I cannot source non-detergent Amsoil in ISO 48 - 64 grades for my metal cutting machinery. I cannot use detergent automotive oils in my lathe and milling machines' gear heads, so I use Lubriplate machinist type of oil. Other than this, Amsoil IMHO is a superior product :29:
 

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Over the years I've learned not to explicitly trust the capacitiy rating on engines for fluids. I have overfilled and underfilled too many cars. When I'm doing an oil change, I add up to one quart under the capacity (capacity is 6.5, I add 5.5). I then start the car and let the oil cycle through the filter, turn it off and let the oil settle back down. I then slowly add the last bit of oil by checking the dipstick after about every .25 quarts. Then I have the exact level it is supposed to be.
 

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Just did our very first oil change today.
3, 700 miles and everything looked great.
7 quarts of Mobil 1 synthetic 5/30 and it's between the middle mark and the top mark.
Next oil change will be home in Eastern Europe, due to the pathetic quality of Russian gasoline, I change our vehicles oil every 2k or so.
 

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I have a preferred customer account with my local Amsoil distributor.
So I use Amsoil in every engine I've got to recoup that $20 annual membership fee. I like Amsoil adhering ability to metal surfaces. Sometimes you cannot even tell the true level of oil in your engine, because this oil just climbs up the dip stick quite a bit, due to its superior to other oils surface tension force. My only gripes are that I cannot source non-detergent Amsoil in ISO 48 - 64 grades for my metal cutting machinery. I cannot use detergent automotive oils in my lathe and milling machines' gear heads, so I use Lubriplate machinist type of oil. Other than this, Amsoil IMHO is a superior product :29:
I just changed mine over to Amsoil 5/30 at 7500mi this weekend. It's the premium product and their literature says that even under severe service, change it every 15k or 1yr. Normal use is 25k or 1yr.

I thought that maybe I'd leave the oil and just change the filter every 7500, assuming that all the oil wouldn't drain out in the process of doign a filter-only change.
 

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7.75 quarts to get it to the full mark on my 2011 3.6L. I use ramps, so I may drain a bit more than is typical due to the tilt. Final dipstick readings are when the car is flat and level.
 

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7qt for me, not a drop more....unless I take it to the shop, they will follow whatever instruction their system tell them. I hv seen 6.7 and 6.9 qt. .... 50k miles later' no issues if it is 7, 6.7 or 6.9 qt.
 

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2005 3.0R Dipstick Reading

Does anyone know the oil quantity between the L & F lines on the 2005 3.0R dipstick? How about when the oil is just barely off the dipstick? I have a leak on my front main seal and was wondering how much oil I am actually losing. Thanks.
 
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