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2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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14,796 Posts
Says its in Milwaukee. Seems awful cheap for a functioning knock sensor. But, for less than $10, its a cheap gamble.

Free shipping must mean it will arrive in a first class envelope. Hope the postman doesn't drop it.
 

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OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
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12,390 Posts
i've used cheap ebay knock sensors in the past with no issues, but they were usually like $20...not $8, that's nuts.

it's one bolt to replace, so it's not like it's a big deal. maybe throw your old one in the trunk/glove box/engine bay just in case!
 

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2011 Prem. 2.5i, 1999 Outback
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258 Posts
I would advise you to be very careful.

I got burned on ebay buying a Subaru power window control.

The first one shipped, did not work!

The second one shipped, (at sellers expense), did not work, a total rip off!

I dont think this crook is on ebay now, but others may be.
 

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1998 Outback wagon, 5 speed winter package
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25 Posts
I just purchased and installed a $11.99+ 4.99 shipping knock sensor for my 1998 on Amazon. Got good reviews so I took the gamble. Fit was a little tough with he oem harness but once together it all seemed to fit and look original. First fire up was rich as frack with CEL still on but seemed to run smooth. Second drive was spot on nice, smooth, and learned out. Works fine so far. The local guys all wanted 89.99 for theirs. Yes they all have a lifetime warranty, but I can still buy 4 more of the others.
 

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106 Posts
I bought one from Advance Auto for $40 for my '96 and still have the code, it came in an Intermotor box but says BWD on the side, and neither BWD nor Intermotor show the part number and what they specify for my car is a totally different number. I got the factory number, typed it into Ebay and purchased one of the $8 ones myself which also showed a cross reference to the part that Intermotor specifies for my vehicle. It should be here this week.... I am going to try to take the Advance one back since the guy said if it doesnt fix my issue I can.
 

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Premium Member
2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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14,796 Posts
Older Subarus tend to drop a knock sensor code at the first key cycle after a replacement, as in as soon as you start it the MIL goes out. If the light stayed on a bit, you may want to check the plug fit and orientation of the sensor.
 

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106 Posts
Older Subarus tend to drop a knock sensor code at the first key cycle after a replacement, as in as soon as you start it the MIL goes out. If the light stayed on a bit, you may want to check the plug fit and orientation of the sensor.
I checked the connection, its good, I will change its orientation, but I got it really close to where the old one was pointed and not much room for a different position but I will give it a shot. I also read that nylon washers between the sensor and block stop the sensor from throwing a code, but to me that kind of seems like it would defeat the purpose of the sensor.
 

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'14 Subi OBW, '18 Subi Forester
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1,868 Posts
That is crazy cheap, but who knows. The sensor technology is pretty basic, but the output voltage range and sensitivity and even the tuned frequency has to be right to what the ECU is expecting to see, as there is no provision for adjustment. And it should be mounted exactly as the original was, either in direct contact or with the same buffer material, depending on the year/engine.

I bought a 1979 Datsun 810 coupe right out of college. Great car, Z-car lineage, but it always had an issue with sag off the line and ping under load. I tried weighting the centrifugal advance, adding delay chambers to the vacuum advance, etc. All of the passive things you could do in that era. Finally thru a trade paper I caught wind of a new aftermarket gizmo from Carter called the Electronic Engine Knock Eliminator. Call me an early guinea pig, but I thought it was the greatest thing since the invention of presliced bread.

Popular Science - Google Books

It was a great taste of what intelligent electronics could do for the automobile.
 
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