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2010 Outback 2.5 Premium
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Discussion Starter #1
Well, after a few trips to the dealer because of squeaking brakes (and being told they were fine) it appears that the pads need to be changed. (right out of warranty, funny how that works).

Anyway, I have the pads/fluid/etc. but before I tear into the rear pads can the rear caliper be pushed in with a C-clamp or does it require a tool to turn the piston and push at the same time? My other cars have required this so wanted to make sure I have everything I need beforehand.

Thanks
 

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Lawn ornament XT
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No special tools required. You can open the bleeder and squeeze the piston with a standard caliper tool or the old c-clamp & scrap wood method. Nothing to it.
 

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Silver 06 2.5i
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I use a c clamp and one of the old pads. Just remember to open the brake fluid cap and keep and eye on the fluid that it does not over flow. I have a syringe and tube that I taek some of the fluid out . After I'm done I suck all the old brake fluid out and replace with new.
 

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2013 Outback, 2.5i Limited w/ Moonroof
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Well, after a few trips to the dealer because of squeaking brakes (and being told they were fine) it appears that the pads need to be changed. (right out of warranty, funny how that works).

Anyway, I have the pads/fluid/etc. but before I tear into the rear pads can the rear caliper be pushed in with a C-clamp or does it require a tool to turn the piston and push at the same time? My other cars have required this so wanted to make sure I have everything I need beforehand.

Thanks
As far as the cause of the squeak, cooling off hot brakes too fast can create a glaze on the pads and rotor, and cause squealing brakes. I took a car through a car wash once, when the brakes were hot. Brakes squealed until I replaced the pads and turned the rotors.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
As far as the cause of the squeak, cooling off hot brakes too fast can create a glaze on the pads and rotor, and cause squealing brakes. I took a car through a car wash once, when the brakes were hot. Brakes squealed until I replaced the pads and turned the rotors.
I agree - wife took the car to oil change place who told her she needed front and rear brakes (which corresponds to the dealer who told her she had about 40 % of pad left about 10-12k miles ago, has 48k miles now). $600 estimate just for pads. No vibration at braking so I am going to just replace pads.

Thanks for all of the info everyone. It's not my car but I guess I'm the mechanic so I'd better get up to speed on things. I wish my brake bleeder fit the reservoir but I'll have to use the 12yo to pump the brakes.
 

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Lord of ScoobyMods, ,
19' Impreza Sport 5 dr / 01' Forester S / 13' OB CVT / 10' Legacy 3.6R / 99 Mita MX-5
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I like to put some brake quiet goop on the back of the pads to be sure I don't get any squeaking.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I bought the pads with the integrated shims that say not to use the Brake Quiet. I guess I'll it with no goo but may have to go back.
 

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2013 Outback Limited 2.5 EyeSight & 2010 Legacy Premium, 2010 OB Limited (traded)
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As far as I know you shouldn't be using brake quiet on the OB. It's only for cars that use non-shimmed brake pads.
 

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Lord of ScoobyMods, ,
19' Impreza Sport 5 dr / 01' Forester S / 13' OB CVT / 10' Legacy 3.6R / 99 Mita MX-5
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I've been using it anyway for years with no issues or squeaks for that matter. Just a thin coat. Makes me feel better I guess...
 

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If I remember right it tells you right on the bottle not to use with shims. But if it works, what the heck.
 

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2008 Outback 2.5i AT
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I also put a little anti squeal on the outside portion of the outside shim that contacts the caliper. Also, you should put some high temp brake grease on the clips and on the caliper where the clips go in, as well as some on the pad "ears" without getting any on the rotor or pad break surface.
 

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Lord of ScoobyMods, ,
19' Impreza Sport 5 dr / 01' Forester S / 13' OB CVT / 10' Legacy 3.6R / 99 Mita MX-5
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I'm always doing stuff I'm not supposed to, I like living on the edge. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I also put a little anti squeal on the outside portion of the outside shim that contacts the caliper. Also, you should put some high temp brake grease on the clips and on the caliper where the clips go in, as well as some on the pad "ears" without getting any on the rotor or pad break surface.

Good idea, I'll clean up the clips and put some grease on them.
 

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2011 2.5i CVT PZEV Dark Blue
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Good idea, I'll clean up the clips and put some grease on them.
I tried this recently but it did not fix my squealing. I replaced both the front and rear pads at 65k and all is quiet now. I took my rotors in though to get turned and found out they were not servicable. So, I cleaned them with cleaner and scotchbrite and all is well for now.
 

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2011 Subie 3.6R Limited 2013 Cmax e=nergi PHEV
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I tried this recently but it did not fix my squealing. I replaced both the front and rear pads at 65k and all is quiet now. I took my rotors in though to get turned and found out they were not servicable. So, I cleaned them with cleaner and scotchbrite and all is well for now.

Not serviceable? Was it due to thinness?


So is the consensus to brake grease the back of the pads/shims or to run them dry?

Mine are still 70-80% after almost 40k, but I did flush the lines with new fluid. I imagine mine will wear progressively faster cause I can't imagine AWD pads going 100k even if I pussyfoot the brakes.
 

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2011 2.5i CVT PZEV Dark Blue
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I think you need grease on all pad contact points.

I may need to get a second opinion on turning the rotors. The non-serviveable part came from my local parts store.
 

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2010 Outback 2.5 Premium
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Discussion Starter #17
Just got them finished (front and back). Definitely the easiest car I've ever had to change pads out. It took longer to get the car up in the air than to swap out the pads. Greased the caliper pins for good measure. I'm not sure about bedding them in since rotors are not new.

Interesting, both sets of pads had about 20% pad left (if that) at 48k miles. I would have thought the rears would have been better.
 

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Just got them finished (front and back). Definitely the easiest car I've ever had to change pads out. It took longer to get the car up in the air than to swap out the pads. Greased the caliper pins for good measure. I'm not sure about bedding them in since rotors are not new.

Interesting, both sets of pads had about 20% pad left (if that) at 48k miles. I would have thought the rears would have been better.
I thought I read somewhere that the dynamic braking system uses the rear more when it can. My front and rear pads were worn about the same as well.
 

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2016 Outback Ltd 2.5 eyesight Nav push button Hole in roof, Lapis Blue
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Can brake system be Gravity bleed

On a 2010 my question can I simply open the cap on the master cylinder and then open each bleeder and let let the fluid just flow out to flush the system??

I used to do just that years ago on non-ABS systems and it worked great, just kept the master cyl filled.
 
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