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2014 and 2016 Outback Limited
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2014 Subaru Outback with 103,000 miles has been very loud at speed. Took it to the dealer today and they said I had bad rear bearings. Not surprised that was the cause of the excessive noise. Was surprised when they quoted me $1300.00 for the repair. I passed on the repair nd going to do it myself. I can get whole hub assembly for under $200.00 for the set. Was wondering if anyone would recommend and aftermarket brand and any insight on the install. Looks pretty straight forward.
 

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2017 OutBack Premier, 2019 Forester Ltd, 2016 370z Rdstr
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724 Posts
tracker12,

Get on YouTube and watch several "Subaru Rear Hub Replacement" videos. You'll get all kinds of hints as to what to expect and the tools you'll need. Then you can gauge whether you want to tackle the job yourself or not. A good air compressor and impact gun, breaker bars and good sockets, floor jack, etc. are almost a must.

And, yes! You can do the job for much less than $1300. Good Luck!
 

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Master Caster
🖤💔💙 3 Beautiful OBXTs
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16,322 Posts
My 2014 Subaru Outback with 103,000 miles has been very loud at speed. Took it to the dealer today and they said I had bad rear bearings. Not surprised that was the cause of the excessive noise. Was surprised when they quoted me $1300.00 for the repair. I passed on the repair nd going to do it myself. I can get whole hub assembly for under $200.00 for the set. Was wondering if anyone would recommend and aftermarket brand and any insight on the install. Looks pretty straight forward.
SKF bearings are one of the very best. I would look for those or Timkin.
 

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2014 and 2016 Outback Limited
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101 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Definitely am not interested to buying cheap. I'm willing to go OEM if that is what is recommended. I'll be helped by a friend that is a pretty good mechanic. I have watched a couple videos and it does look like a pretty simple install if you can get everything broken free.
 

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Master Caster
🖤💔💙 3 Beautiful OBXTs
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I prefer SKF the NAPA premium bearings are also SKF. Timken are also good. Rock auto normally has better prices that local store if your paying full price.
Napa Premium are SKF as stated. I have purchased (8) Napa/SKF locally. Which for me ensures a "no hassle" if there were to be an issue.
 

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2014 and 2016 Outback Limited
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101 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sounds good on NAPA. I was going to buy from Geek Parts but probably worth dealing locally as long as price is not an extreme difference.
 

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Sounds good on NAPA. I was going to buy from Geek Parts but probably worth dealing locally as long as price is not an extreme difference.[/QUOTE

Don't pay off street prices at NAPA Not sure where you are located but my local store gives me 20% off for belonging to wheel of time motor club. They don't even ask for ID . Not sure like I said on location but ask them , most will tell you who they discount for. Also check their on line prices . They discount them online and most stores will match . The bottom line is with so many auto store they are willing to deal with you. I have always found NAPA premium line to be superior to others and their employees seem to know more. . Best luck Doug
 

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2010 Outback 3.6 Limited, 2005 Outback LL Bean 3.0.
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I just did this on a 2010 a few months ago. Not a bad job, just hit all of your bolts/nuts with PB blaster or equivelant a day or so before the job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well I finished the job today. The take off and install was pretty straight forward but getting the old ones off was a bear. None of he bolts were a problem but getting the bearing off was horrible. The left rear was really bad and rust made it almost impossible to break free. Just glad its done and I can finally hear the radio as I motor down the road.
 

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'17 OB 3.6 , '11 OB 2.5 , '11 Legacy 2.5
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Well I finished the job today. The take off and install was pretty straight forward but getting the old ones off was a bear. None of he bolts were a problem but getting the bearing off was horrible. The left rear was really bad and rust made it almost impossible to break free. Just glad its done and I can finally hear the radio as I motor down the road.
Congratulations :) Do you live in the RustBelt? What methods did you use? I'm currently on Day #3 of the L-Rear Hub, and I am a broken man, it is kicking my posterior. Ohio rust has nearly welded this hub in, and I am confident at 180k it is NOT the original, so that means the last guy didn't bother using any anti-seize (thanks). I've used heat, HubShocker (stripped lug bolts/nuts out), air hammer (on front). Today I am going to reinsert the hub bolts, and hit them from behind with the air hammer. If that doesn't work (probably won't), I'm sure I will be disassembling the knuckle. Not happy. But today is a new day, just got out of the hot-tub, 1000mg Tylenol, and almost have a pot of coffee in my belly ; READY TO RULE THE WORLD !!!!!!
 
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