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2005 Outback 2.5XT & 2003 Mercury Grand Marquis
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52 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,
I need to replace the bushing and bolt in the rear lateral link that adjusts the rear toe. The alignment shop can't get the toe within spec and from what I can tell by monkeying with it the bolt is frozen into the bushing so it needs to be replaced.

So this being the inner bolt & bushing where would be the best place to procure these parts?

For reference it is the bolt that has been squirted throughly with penetrating oil in this picture:


Thanks for any info!
 

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2005 Outback 2.5XT & 2003 Mercury Grand Marquis
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52 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I have found replacement links but none of them have or show the bolt and bushing for the inner portion.

For example:


That is from the partsgeek site and so far the only site I have found with the part. But it does not show the bushing and bolt which is the part I assume I really need.
 

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2005 Outback 2.5XT & 2003 Mercury Grand Marquis
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52 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Excellent thank you! That is where I was headed. I just started flipping through the digital FSM and after looking at that schematic it is all coming together in my head. I think I was confused as to why only one side had a bushing.

Looks like I need:
Bolt cam, 901700122
Washer cam, 903100171
Washer-toe adjust, 20560AA011
And either the
Bushing b-lateral link, 20254AE01A
Or
A replacement lateral link like the one found here

Can the part numbers listed on the link you provided be used to order them at any Subaru dealership?

Thanks,
Mike
 

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2005 Outback 2.5XT & 2003 Mercury Grand Marquis
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52 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I have found a few online Subaru parts sites. I'll be ordering up the parts on Wednesday.

Thanks for the very helpful links Nipper!
 

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OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
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12,385 Posts
you can even stop by your local dealer, show them your parts lists and tell them you'd like to work with them if they'd come close to the online prices.

saves shipping costs/delays and problems if you get the wrong parts, which i've had happen multiple times (but i order a lot) with the Subaru online places. i've had more errors with ordering from the online Subaru parts places than places like Advanced Auto, Rock auto, etc...actually i don't think i've ever gotten the wrong part from a parts store (which I order more from), but I've had it happen multiple times with Subaru online dealers.

It makes sense - those places aren't fully dedicated parts suppliers, they're run out of a dealer somewhere. They've all been great to deal with when there is a an error, but you just have delays, and credit back, check your card, reorder, wait.

But ordering is nice too - saves a lot of time (if it's right) - shows up on your door step.
 

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2008 Outback 2.5i
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1,148 Posts
You might also want to add Whileline KCA 399 rear camber adjustable bushings. This will allow the camber to be adjusted as well.
 

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2000 Limited Wagon 5MT
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303 Posts
Put a bigger wrench on it. I thought mine were frozen too, but a torch and a breaker bar got them loose. Your cars undercarriage looks similar to mine in terms of surface rust, or lack there of.
 

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Registered
2005 Outback 2.5XT & 2003 Mercury Grand Marquis
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52 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
you can even stop by your local dealer, show them your parts lists and tell them you'd like to work with them if they'd come close to the online prices.

saves shipping costs/delays and problems if you get the wrong parts, which i've had happen multiple times (but i order a lot) with the Subaru online places. i've had more errors with ordering from the online Subaru parts places than places like Advanced Auto, Rock auto, etc...actually i don't think i've ever gotten the wrong part from a parts store (which I order more from), but I've had it happen multiple times with Subaru online dealers.

It makes sense - those places aren't fully dedicated parts suppliers, they're run out of a dealer somewhere. They've all been great to deal with when there is a an error, but you just have delays, and credit back, check your card, reorder, wait.

But ordering is nice too - saves a lot of time (if it's right) - shows up on your door step.
I did exactly this. My local Subaru dealer was willing to come close on the pricing. Close enough that I save at least $14.00 vs. the shipped price from Subaru Online Parts. I am very pleased.

Now to find someplace to replace the trailing link! It's a bit blustery outside in NH at the moment and I don't have a garage at my disposal... yet. I'm asking around.
 

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2005 Outback 2.5XT & 2003 Mercury Grand Marquis
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52 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Put a bigger wrench on it. I thought mine were frozen too, but a torch and a breaker bar got them loose. Your cars undercarriage looks similar to mine in terms of surface rust, or lack there of.
The tech working on the car didn't want to break the bolt so we didn't go all out on it. I have the parts and I'm going to replace them soon, then get an alignment done.
 

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2005 Outback 2.5XT & 2003 Mercury Grand Marquis
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52 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
You might also want to add Whileline KCA 399 rear camber adjustable bushings. This will allow the camber to be adjusted as well.
I'm not really worried about the rear camber at this time. It is a bit out of spec but not enough where I'd be worried about it causing excessive tire wear.

Also I have dealt with polly bushings (and hub centric ones at that!) in the past and I'd like to stay away from them. The climate I'm in is not friendly to bushings that need tlc and I honestly don't have the time to give them the tlc they require.
 

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2005 Outback 2.5XT & 2003 Mercury Grand Marquis
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52 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Lateral link replacement finished!

From start to finish it took about 4 hours. This was done in my snowy driveway (not fun at all) and I had to call my neighbor to borrow his saws all (reciprocating saw in case anyone was wondering).

I had to cut the inner cam bolt head off with the saws all and during the process I went through 2 blades.

The issue at hand was the bolt was welded to the bushing do to oxidation. This caused the right rear toe to be frozen at some .52 degrees (or some god awful number not good for tire wear). I was unable to remove the bolt even with heat and a big ass hammer. I owe my neighbor a few beers and few blades! The cam bolt was a hardened grade 8 bolt so it dulled the blades up like butter.

Here is what the end of the old lateral link looked like after it was removed:


I cut enough of the bolt through so I could use a impact wrench to bust it off:


Here is the new genuine Subaru part and hardware installed:
Nice and shiny new!


I installed the new lateral link and hardware with plenty of anti sieze. Hopefully this will keep it from freezing up in the future:


Tomorrow morning I'm heading off to get it realigned. Sears Auto in my area are opened 7 days a week. I paid $150 so I can get the car aligned as many times as I want for the next 3 years. I think it is a pretty good deal. Especially seeing as I plan to due some suspension work in the next few months.

Ahh the feeling of a job well done. Now I need to go take a hot shower. It was cold as **** out!
 

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2006 Wagon 2.5i M/T
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37 Posts
Thanks for the useful post and pictures. I just bought a 2006 and the alignment report the previous owner gave me shows the rear toe adjustment on both sides to be 'frozen". Toe is .17 degree toe-in on the worst wheel, while specs are for between 0 and .13 degrees toe-out. A camber adjustment on the right front (presumably a strut/steering knuckle bolt) is also rusted "frozen" - in a 2006 car (very new by my standards). Blame it on all that road salt I guess. So, I may have to do the same thing at some point. At a minimum, I'll remove the nut and try to inject penetrating oil into the bushing sleeve and maybe it will work loose over time until the next alignment.

Now, for a SAFETY ADVISORY:

I hope I'm wrong about this, but did you have anything else holding the car up besides that jack, extended fully, sitting on a old particle-board table-top, on slippery snow? Assuming you didn't, you are lucky to be alive! Please tell me that there was a pair of safety stands just out of view of the picture...right?

Everyone... Never, ever, rely on just a jack to support car you are getting underneath!
 

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2006 Wagon 2.5i M/T
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37 Posts
Update on this Repair...

I finally ended up doing the same repair so I can get the alignment adjusted right. The only improvement in the procedure above (besides properly supporting the car) that I'd recommend is to drill the bolt head out instead of grinding/cutting it. It is much easier and cleaner. You need to detach the sway bar mounts on the car frame which allows the bar to be lowered for clearance for the drill. Even with a little 12V drill and a drill just a mm smaller than the bolt shank, I had the bolt heads drilled out in just 5-10 minutes each side.

The cause of the headache is that the bolt rust-welds itself to the inner bushing sleeve. You can't break it loose because the rubber prevents much torque from being applied.

Coat the new bolt and inner sleeve with plenty of grease to prevent this from happening again.
 

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2005 18psi supercharged U5 Outback w/207k+ miles
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804 Posts
1) So when you buy the replacement arm... the side that has no bushing - Is there a bushing we need to replace there?

2) Wonder if 1000 lb ft. impact will loosen it up? Or it is just going to spin the bushing and the bolt together?

3) Any thuoghts on this combo of replacements:
1) Mevotech for the toe adjustment arm - MS801191 - $76 shipped for 2
2) Dorman for the "rear forward lateral arm" $75 shipped for 2: (it's the first part that shows up here:
https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2005/subaru/outback/suspension/lateral_arm.html).
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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16,201 Posts
1) So when you buy the replacement arm... the side that has no bushing - Is there a bushing we need to replace there?

The bushing is in the wheel/hub knuckle and rarely needs replacing.

2) Wonder if 1000 lb ft. impact will loosen it up? Or it is just going to spin the bushing and the bolt together?

3) Any thuoghts on this combo of replacements:
1) Mevotech for the toe adjustment arm - MS801191 - $76 shipped for 2
2) Dorman for the "rear forward lateral arm" $75 shipped for 2: (it's the first part that shows up here:
https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2005/subaru/outback/suspension/lateral_arm.html).
The dorman arms you listed are direct replacements for the stock. They are not super durable, similar to stock. They will give your 40-50K miles and 3 years. You will be changing them again. But they are cheap.
 

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2005 18psi supercharged U5 Outback w/207k+ miles
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804 Posts
Mevotech also makes one:
MEVOTECH CMS801211 {#20250AE06A, MS801211} Supreme

Not sure if it's any better - it is $20 more each.
 
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