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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone,
I have a 1996 2.5L Legacy Outback with 230,000 miles on it but it has had problem after problem.
MY brakes went out yesterday and there is fluid every where on the rear passenger side and when I put more fluid in and pumped the brakes it was pouring down from the top of the gas tank. I have a poorly illustrated Haynes guide that doesn't show brake system schematics very well at all.
-From what I can tell is it is the E-brake line leaking. But does that even take fluid or is it Just a cable.
-Do I need to drop the gas tank to get at this?

Any thoughts are much appreciated.:(
 

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you should bring it into a shop immediately if your losing that much brake fluid. And no, its not your e-brake as that is cable actuated.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I can not afford to bring it to a shop. I live way out in the middle of nowhere and it would need to be towed which is like another $90.
I have put a lot into this car recently and just got new tires. I can do the brake lines myself I was just looking for some thoughts as to whether I would need to drop the gas tank to get at the lines.
Or Just part the car out at this point it is beginning to have more issues than I care to deal with. So if this is going to mean days of work dropping the taank I'd rather not deal with it.
Also was hoping there might be some on line brake system diagrams.

Thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I can not afford to bring it to a shop. I live way out in the middle of nowhere and it would need to be towed which is like another $90.
I have put a lot into this car recently and just got new tires. I can do the brake lines myself I was just looking for some thoughts as to whether I would need to drop the gas tank to get at the lines.
Or Just part the car out at this point it is beginning to have more issues than I care to deal with. So if this is going to mean days of work dropping the taank I'd rather not deal with it.
Also was hoping there might be some on line brake system diagrams.

Thanks for the help.
 

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OK, I was unaware of your circumstances. I unfortunately do not have enough knowledge of the brake system to give you much. I assume you have at least pulled that wheel off and took a close look to make sure the leak wasn't comming from someplace more accessible?
 

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Here's some diagrams for ca. MY1995 that might provide some idea of where the lines are routed. there's pipe that crosses over in the rear area, but it's not clear if it's above the fuel tank.
 

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I have read, or perhaps saw a youtube video, of a guy that repaired a similar problem on an old pickup truck. He basically bypassed the old rusted section of tubing with a new, re-routed, section of tubing.

I think it could be risky, but you might investigate that approach.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah I took the wheel off. The metal tube seems to go up around the gas tank and then I can not see where it goes.
 

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If I remember correctly, The brake line runs inside the vehicle along the passenger side and there is a joint inside the car under the back seat for either side rear wheel.

Brake line section is available at most parts stores and come with the threaded fittings. You just have to figure out how long a piece you need, probably enough to run from the joint inside the car to the rubber hose at the wheel and make sure you get the right size line and fitting.

Make your own. Leave the old line in place if its too difficult to remove, it won't bother anything. Brake line is manufactured to bend easily. Just don't bend it so severe that it binds/kinks the line. Smooth bends. The same parts store you get the line from will most likely have a brake line bending tool to assist with the bends you will need.

You don't have to route the line in the exact same position as the OE. Be sure it is clear of moving parts, won't be at risk of impact from driving, i.e. hanging below the framing. After you bleed out the caliper, crank the car and apply the brake and have someone check for leaks at all the joints.

Cost for the line, tool and brake fluid should be around $30.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks everyone. I got one break-line off now I feel it is another line that runs from one side to the other holy crap it is a pain getting those 10mm nuts of. they stripped first turn.
 

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PB Blaster is a handy thing to have. Spray the joints and let is soak for a couple hours, sometimes less, and try again. Also, another trick which also works with stubborn bleeder valves is to try to turn the nut clockwise just enough to make it "crack", then try to loosen it.

I hope you have a "brake line" wrench. It help by grabbing more of the hex head.
 
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