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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
never done a brake job, read quite a few DIY's and printed out the pad replacement doc.

got the caliper off, pads out, saw how the new ones go in, blah blah.

got to the caliper bracket bolts.

The top one came out, i think i just used my 3" 14mm socket.

the bottom one sucks!

cant get my wrench/sockets attached anyway but using my 3" 14mm, with 2 more 3" extensions. Used liquid wrench, and a 3lb sledge, but the **** thing wont budge, mostly because with all the extensions its not so tight fitting. I can't find any other way to get a wrench or socket on there, since its recessed behind a big piece of steel.


i've heard of an offset wrench being a good way to get it out, no need for extensions. where can I find one of these? / has any one had good luck with this method.

My car grew up in NY, and is covered in rust. I don't have the tools to measure the rotors thickness, so i just bought new ones as they look quite rusty and beat up.

any help getting that bottom caliper bracket bolt out?

this is a 2004 subaru obw
 

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01 VDC, 05 R Sedan, 06 BAJA EJ257
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Front or Rear, its the same. Use a short socket and a breaker bar. The shorter the distance between the head of the ratchet or bar and the bolt, the greater the amount of torque transfer. The more extensions used, less torque.

You could also get a small Map torch kit and heat the bolt up and try to break it loose with the bolt hot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
per the rust comment, both the top and bottom heads are free of rust, and the threads on the top one that i got out were clean as a whistle, so im thinking/hoping it wont break off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
not sure if you've played with this setup, but theres absolutly no room for a short socket in there, i can barely even fit a 3/8" wrench in there without a socket attached
 

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Car: 2008 Tribeca, 2010 LGT, Sold: 2005 XT Limited
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If I remember, there is a through hole in the plates to get an extension in to get to the bolts on the rear. But It's just a vague memory from this spring...
 

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01 VDC, 05 R Sedan, 06 BAJA EJ257
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My bad. Brain Fart. I was thinking of a something different, again. 1/2" drive socket, short extension and a 1/2" breaker bar or ratchet. If you don't have a breaker bar, you can slide a pipe over the end of the ratchet to extend your leverage out from the bolt.

Other than that, impact wrench.

I own a VDC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
^you are correct, my my extensions are not the length i need, the 3" and the short socket just dont give me enough room, and the 3" plus a long socket are just too long and put me against the endlinks, tried removing those, but those bolts are very very rusted on.
 

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Car: 2008 Tribeca, 2010 LGT, Sold: 2005 XT Limited
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I think I used a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter and then 1/2" extension to transfer more torque. Anyway, looks like you get to buy a new tool for your toolbox (or borrow from a neighbor). Or get creative. Hitting isn't as good as constant pressure on a long lever arm. The force (and torque) will go linearly the the length of the handle. Double the length, and you are putting twice the torque on the bolt. Go as long as you can!

Tom
 

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Onyx, 2008 LL Bean 3.0R and 2017 Honda Civic Hatchback Sport Touring
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Someone here might jump on me for this, but when I got my top caliper bolt out I took a rubber mallet and gently tapped the caliper bracket up and down, hinging on the bottom bolt, to break the seize. That was about 9 months ago and I still see no ill effects.

I wasn't bashing the thing (although I wanted to), I was just "persuading" it to budge. Oh, and I used about half a can of PB Blaster. The others are right as well. You need to find the perfect extension length before you even worry about torque.
 

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LOL.....

John Davies
Spokane WA USA
You know, I look at that now and I can see why you laugh.

But if you look at it like I meant it, it makes sense. Using extensions between the ratchet and socket reduces the energy available at the bolt because the extensions will absorb it in the twisting of the metal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
For anyone interested,
I bought a 3" extension for my 1/2" drive, didn't work

Harbor freight had a offset mtric set for 15 bucks, a quick check and it seems like it will work!

Now I know I'm about to find some serious hub rotor rust, and my rotors do not have the 8mm holes. How do I get the rotor off? I read hit between the lugs with a hammer? Any ideas
 

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Either use a hammer combo, ballpein and deadblow resting the ballpein on the rotor and hitting it instead of the rotor, or use the screws. You may want to soak the rotor and hub area with PB Blaster to eat up some of the rust to help. Try not to hit the wheel studs or you'll have to replace the one that gets smacked.
 

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Put the lug nuts back on to protect the stud threads from hammer whoopsies. They will also keep the rotor from springing off and falling on your toe once you bust the rust lock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well I didt even get that far on both sides. Broke off a caliper bolt, and I don't have the tools to rethread and drill it out. Off to the shop, this is no fun. My next car I will make sure to be rust free
 

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Well I didt even get that far on both sides. Broke off a caliper bolt, and I don't have the tools to rethread and drill it out. Off to the shop, this is no fun. My next car I will make sure to be rust free
Yuck. Was that with an offset socket?
 

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I rounded off the top 14mm bolt of the caliper bracket (brake pad holder). It's the one that is sort of inside a "hole". Any ideas? You cannot fit a bolt extractor in there because they are too large in diameter. This is on a 2005.

I got it. I took off the whole backing plate with the wheel bearing, parking brake cable attached and all. Then just pound a bolt extractor on it and zip it off. You can get the rounded head extractor tool on, but can't get an impact over it when it is installed. Mine takes a 7/8" impact. Been sitting in my toolbox for 17 years ha!!!!

Clean up, get a new bolt and put back together.

 
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