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Rear Shock Replacement, 2000 Outback Wagon

80634 Views 73 Replies 30 Participants Last post by  P510upgrade
PB Blaster EVERYTHING several times the day before you do this, if your car is old enough to need its struts replaced. Mine will be 10 in May... 10 years of weather doesn't make certain bolts happy...

Anywho, the rear shocks together are the same price as one strut, so at the very least its a cheap maintenance item.

Items Needed:

Spring Compressor
Floor Jack or transmission jack
Jackstands
Socket 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
19mm Wrench
Allen Wrench set
Pipe Wrench or Maybe Channel Locks
An impact gun takes away a LOT of work.
Might need a breaker bar, just put a pipe over a Socket Wrench

Step 1:

Remove the rear rear floor board in the trunk, then remove the front piece too. You should see the tops of the shocks now.



Step 2:

Jack the car up, put it on Jackstands. Take the wheels off.
Not needed to do it in that order either.


Step 3:

Fun time!

You have to break loose the bolt on the bottom of the shock. Jack up the suspension with the floor jack by the bottom of the shock, it helps. I had a **** of a time doing this even with a 2 foot breaker bar with a 4 foot extension. It's 19mm and you'll also need the 19mm wrench to make sure the other side doesn't spin. Beating the bolt with a hammer could help it un-seize, along with torching it. Just keep hammering and putting more leverage on it, it will come eventually.



Step 4:

Undo the top of the struts from inside the car, 2 14mm bolts. The entire assembly should fall out easily now.



Step 5:

Mount the spring compressor to the spring, and tighten it up evenly.



Step 6:

Undo the top 17mm bolt on the shock. It might not want to spin, the impact couldn't do one for us. So we took a 17mm socket and put an allen key through it. It was REVERSE threaded as a result, IE: Righty loosey lefty tighty.

Step 7:

Assembly the new shock using the old pieces. Make SURE you have the shock correctly aligned, note the position of everything when you take it out of the car.



Step 8:

This also would be an EXCELLENT time to put new coils on.



Step 9:

With the new shock together mount it back into the car, top first.. the 14mm bolts should be torqued to 22.4 ft lbs



Step 10:

Then the bottom, and one of the hardest parts.

You have to line up the shock with the 19mm bolt, I used a jack to compress the shock until it lined up. A helper also makes this a lot easier. Torque this to 116 ft lbs once you finally get it on.



Step 11:

With that done, do the other side in the same way. Put it all back together, and go get it aligned. You're done!

If you're ready to purchase the shocks, these are the ones I used: KYB GR-2

https://amzn.to/2HZCotp (affiliate link) You'll need two of these but they're not side specific.
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00 OB 07 OBXT
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another good writeup

i see those overloads are a bit longer, stiffer too or just more preload ?

curious how the ride is with those and what prompted you to go that route, towing stuff ?

did it raise the rear at all ?

if so, any issues with down travel ? shock fully extending over high speed whoops ?
 

· Brucey
Brucey
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Proper use of the car load space prompted me to get overload springs





Stuff like that happens at least twice a month since my friend totalled his truck.


The whole car rides really epic now. Better than it ever did before. I get some feedback on the road but not enough to ruin the ride. It also corners pretty amazing, better than my friends 04 RS to me. Or at least more surprising, I feel like the side bolsters are finally serving some purpose other than to kill my back.

I also like being able to sit on the tailgate and the car not sag.

Overall I'd say they're worth it if you ever plan to use the car. I just like doing everything at once.
 

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right on, so the rear coils helped balance out the stiffer front swaybar ?

you didn't do a rear sway right ?

mine at this point doesn't get a lot of abuse of really heavy loads, i have a 3/4 pick up and access to trailers for big loads so not a motivator for me. for me a front and rear sways would probably make more sense with either the existing or new stock rate springs.

i had thought of putting a hitch on it but, the 2k limit seems anemic to me with a truck with 11k capability.
 

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Question about tension

Basically trying to figure out if once you remove the lower bolt if there is still tension on the strut. Your description sort of implies there is no tension, but my newb suspicion is there is still tension, and you must basically deal with it by slowly by lowering the support under the eyelet (or raising the rear suspension). Am I making any sense?

You don't use the compressor until the entire spring / strut is off the car, but trying to figure out what I am up against before it's totally off...and before the lower bolt is re-installed putting it all back together.

FYIW, I'm asking about this for doing this procedure on a 07...assume no real difference.
 

· Brucey
Brucey
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Once the bottom bolt is out, the assembly is not under any tension. When you knock the bottom bolt out, the strut will go down a few inches and that will be it.

The only tension is on the spring itself, and that will be gone once you take the top hat off.

Hope I'm helping :)
 

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2005 model Manual n/a 4 cyl 'Safety' model. 1" longer King Springs KYB rear struts & 1" subtlsolutions strut blocks, giving 2" total lift. Have a 'top half' luggage barrier.
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Great write up, totally agree about the benefits of longer springs.
 

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2005 OBW 2.5i, 2010 MB R350 Diesel, 1991 Toyota MR2 | suspension & braking enthusiast
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Alternate method for lining up the bolt hole to the replacement rear damper:




Yeah for 2x4's!!!!


I also highly recommend disconnecting one link on the swaybar. This will make it easier for the left and right suspensions to move independently so that when you use the 2x4 method, you're not fighting against both sides of the car. It also makes it easier to get the old dampers off the car.
 

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Hi there, newb here.

At last service the mechanic report stated I need to replace rear shocks on my 2000 Outback. Can anyone recommend replacement aftermarket shocks - I am in Australia and no-one here seems to be able to offer me any!

Specific part and a URL would be appreciated!

Thanks,
 

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1999 30th Anniversary Legacy Outback DOHC 2.5L 4EAT, 2008 Impreza WRX 2.5L 5MT, 2008 Impreza Wagon 2.5L 4EAT
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Most here recommend KYB

You can go here to get the GR2 part numbers and find the cross references to other manufacturers:

KYB Online Parts Catalog

Not sure how available they are down under but at least with a part number you should hopefully find some.

Front Left 334276
Front Right 334275
Rear L&R 341276
 

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GR2s replacement rear shocks for 2000 Outback

Thanks for the advice. I bought and installed a GR2 to replace a leaking shock on the driver side.

Initially all was well but 150miles on and there is a squeaking sound coming from that area - I can make it squeak by bouncing the tailgate by hand or pulling the roofbar sideways.

Anyone suggest what needs tightening or lubricating? It didn't make these sounds when I initially test drove it after installing the new shock.

I still have to replace the other side shock, but if I haven't done a good job then I don't want to waste my time on it.

Thanks,

Paul.
 

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2005 OBW 2.5i, 2010 MB R350 Diesel, 1991 Toyota MR2 | suspension & braking enthusiast
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Thanks for the advice. I bought and installed a GR2 to replace a leaking shock on the driver side.

Initially all was well but 150miles on and there is a squeaking sound coming from that area - I can make it squeak by bouncing the tailgate by hand or pulling the roofbar sideways.

Anyone suggest what needs tightening or lubricating? It didn't make these sounds when I initially test drove it after installing the new shock.

I still have to replace the other side shock, but if I haven't done a good job then I don't want to waste my time on it.

Thanks,

Paul.
Possibly the upper shock mount is worn internally? Or the swaybar link? Can you determine if the squeak is coming from one side or the other side of the car? Does it still squeak if you disconnect the swaybar?
Get somebody else to bouce the car while you listen carfully. A good trick to poinpoint noises is to get some aquarium tubing and stick it in your year and put the other end on various solid parts of the car. The sound will transmit very well through the tubing. Call it a poor man's stethescope :)
 

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Possibly the upper shock mount is worn internally? Or the swaybar link? Can you determine if the squeak is coming from one side or the other side of the car? Does it still squeak if you disconnect the swaybar?
Get somebody else to bouce the car while you listen carfully. A good trick to poinpoint noises is to get some aquarium tubing and stick it in your year and put the other end on various solid parts of the car. The sound will transmit very well through the tubing. Call it a poor man's stethescope :)
Hi PhatVW - the squeaking is definately coming from the side where i replaced the shock. It didn't squeak prior to the replacement so I am favouring my "handiwork" is at fault.
I'll report back on the weekend after I've jacked it up and checked the source of the sound more closely.
 

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Hi PhatVW - the squeaking is definately coming from the side where i replaced the shock. It didn't squeak prior to the replacement so I am favouring my "handiwork" is at fault.
I'll report back on the weekend after I've jacked it up and checked the source of the sound more closely.
Followup - checked nuts in trunk and the lower bolt and none have loosened.

Not easy to check where squeaking emits when the car is on jacks! Can only replicate with the car weight on the wheels.

Wondering if the nuts in the trunk should be "overtightened" to pull the rubber shock mount tighter under the body. There is no way the previous nuts were only 22ft-lbs tight. I had to really apply some torque to get the old nuts off.

Replacing the passenger side shock now. See if that ones remains silent.
 

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You can spray some silicone lube up on the upper two piece mount to see if it's the source of the squeek.

I just replaced my rear shocks, used new springs [baja, stiffer] and new mounts. I can see those mounts not mating up solid if you reused them, basically the rubber gets compressed in one position for 10 years or so ... it's probably not pliable enough to completely reseat in a different position.
 

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Got to the bottom of the sounds...the nylon lock nut on at the top of new shock needed tightening up 2-3 more turns. Had to remove to get at it - complete refit. They should put a torque setting in the instructions!

On the plus side the passenger side went in without a hitch. Can't buy experience!

One piece of advice I got elsewhere was to tighten up the bottom bolt at "ride height" because tightening fuly when jacked up can cause "extraneous" forces once the wheel is lowered, causing accelerated wear on the bushing.

Appreciate all your feedback.
 

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Torque specs are vehicle manufacturer supplied and are in the manual. Parts suppliers rarely if ever spec torque since the parts may have multiple applications.

I don't see the logic in putting weight on a bolt then trying to torque it, you are then stressing the bolt/ part interface and there is no way to compensate for that added "drag" or "resistance" on the part and you may end up with a bolt that is not torqued correctly and will have play when the suspension is loaded/unloaded.
 

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Long springs?

Brucey,
I would like to know where you got your longer rear springs from. I have been shopping around and not having much luck. I realize that was a long time ago so anything you can remember would be great.
Thanks.
 
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