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Presently 2000 Legacy GT wagon 2.5, five speed. Maybe an '07 Forester LL Bean. Formerly 53 Ford fordor; 67, 68 and 72 Mustangs; 1950 Caddy model 61, '64 Sedan De Ville; etc. etc.
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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 20% off discount at a local parts place, good until Sunday the 28th.
MONROE rear struts with spring installed are $152 each, are they as good as the KYB?
I really don't want to get just the KYB struts at $94 each and reuse the old parts...

Incidentally I will be replacing all the worn rear rubber suspension bushings as well...

Quick replies please!
 

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Presently 2000 Legacy GT wagon 2.5, five speed. Maybe an '07 Forester LL Bean. Formerly 53 Ford fordor; 67, 68 and 72 Mustangs; 1950 Caddy model 61, '64 Sedan De Ville; etc. etc.
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Discussion Starter #2
BTW, it an 05 Gen 3 outback with 151K miles on it.
 

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2005 Outback VDC limited 3.0r
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I like the Gen 2(02-04) KYB rear struts on my car, the stiffer rebound helps keep the car planted. I can't really comment on Monroe, i have heard there is no problems with them. If you go kyb, I would recommend new strut mounts. Springs can be reused, some people say replace them, but oem ones are better built. Unless you have been towing and hauling heavy stuff in the trunk, the rear springs won't really wear out.
 

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2006 OutBean, 2005 LGTW
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I've slapped a set of both KYB's and Monroes in different project cars of mine. I didn't have the car with KYB's very long before I sold it but I sat on the car with Monroes for a minute. I thought the Monroes were a bit softer or more giving. They didn't seem to improve handling much but, we are talking about the Outback after all. As far as longevity is concerned, I don't know if the Monroes would last like the KYB's have lasted. I mean, your car is at 151k and you're just now talking about doing them. I don't think you can go wrong either way tbh. I don't think I'd pay more for the Monroes, necessarily.

Replacing the rubber bits throughout the rear is a job. I don't recommend aftermarket bushings unless you're going poly (which I personally don't recommend either unless you're ready for increased NVH.) IMO, Subaru only for your rubbers.
 
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2009 3.0R Outback
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I don't recommend aftermarket bushings unless you're going poly (which I personally don't recommend either unless you're ready for increased NVH.) IMO, Subaru only for your rubbers.
I replaced every single OEM bushing in the rear with Whiteline poly with the exception of the control arms, which are aftermarket with solid spherical bushings. Can't say that noise/vibration increased enough for me to notice or care about. The nice thing about using poly bushings is most of them don't need to be pressed in like OEM.
 

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I have a thousand miles on Monroe coilover kits. They do seem soft and, again, I can't speak for longevity. Personally, I went with Monroe over KYB for cost and ease of installation. I knew I needed new tophat bearings in the front and I didn't want to deal with a spring compressor.

If you're having a shop do the work, ask what the labor charge for either option is. The book time to replace the strut only is 3 or 4 times more than to replace the entire assembly.
 

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2008 Outback 2.5
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I got the Monroe struts without the coils and moved the coils over myself with a loaner compressor kit. It was pretty easy but the fronts were impossible so I still haven't replace them, I just put the originals back on.
Replacing the rear struts made a huge difference in the ride. Before the replacement, you could get seasick while sitting in the rear seat. Afterwards, the ride is nice and firm without being too stiff and off road driving (just dirt trails and dirt roads, not rock hopping) is great. I did the replacement @ about 80k miles and the car now has 180k. The fronts are still in good shape and the ride is perfectly adequate so I still have the Monroe front replacements in the garage and will have a shop do the coil swap when needed.

When doing the rears, watch some Youtube videos on how to use a jack to compress the struts on the car before trying to remove or install the lower bolt. If you don't load up the spring, it will be nearly impossible to get the bolt out and back in. When the compression is perfect, the bolt slides effortlessly.
 

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Presently 2000 Legacy GT wagon 2.5, five speed. Maybe an '07 Forester LL Bean. Formerly 53 Ford fordor; 67, 68 and 72 Mustangs; 1950 Caddy model 61, '64 Sedan De Ville; etc. etc.
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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks all for the input.
Looks like it's Monroes for simplicity's sake. The rears should be no problem from the videos I've seen. I have no problem with a slightly soft ride.
BTW, been a car mechanic before, but these newfangled (after 1990) vehicles are close to magick in some respects.
Hammers are not kind to 'modern' cars.

On the list is also replacing the valve cover gaskets, some joy there to experience I expect.
I'll go with the poly suspension rubbers, I like the idea of not having to press them in.

OK, looking at the somewhat bewildering array of things on the Whiteline site, does anyone have a recommendation for a particular rear kit number?
Thought I'd toss that out there.

The car is BADLY in need of an alignment, I need to free up the frozen adjustment bolts before that happens...bushings and etc. will need doing first, of course.
I figured doing the rear of the car will eliminate the weird wheel hop I have, and then I'll move on to the front end. THAT at least seems OK so far.

Again, thanks again for all the help, you guys are a miracle of knowledge.
 

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2006 Outback 2.5 MT
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I installed Monroe Quick Struts on my sons Outback last summer. The ride is fine. My only complaint on the rear strut assembly is that it’s a little short, giving the car a slight nose up stance. No one I know notices this but me...but it drives me nuts. Not my car...I’ll get over it.
 

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2008 Outback Wagon LL Bean Limited 2.5i
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699 Posts
Thanks all for the input.
Looks like it's Monroes for simplicity's sake. The rears should be no problem from the videos I've seen. I have no problem with a slightly soft ride.
BTW, been a car mechanic before, but these newfangled (after 1990) vehicles are close to magick in some respects.
Hammers are not kind to 'modern' cars.

On the list is also replacing the valve cover gaskets, some joy there to experience I expect.
I'll go with the poly suspension rubbers, I like the idea of not having to press them in.

OK, looking at the somewhat bewildering array of things on the Whiteline site, does anyone have a recommendation for a particular rear kit number?
Thought I'd toss that out there.

The car is BADLY in need of an alignment, I need to free up the frozen adjustment bolts before that happens...bushings and etc. will need doing first, of course.
I figured doing the rear of the car will eliminate the weird wheel hop I have, and then I'll move on to the front end. THAT at least seems OK so far.

Again, thanks again for all the help, you guys are a miracle of knowledge.
Some one on here was selling a used set of whiteline lateral arms for the rear. Those things are great for get the back end alignment in spec. Typically around $320 -$400. Shop around. It is Money well spent especially when the rear camber was was out of spec. The stock toe/camber bolt does not have enough adjustment on it.

The the rubber in front bushing on the rear trailing control arm sees a lot of action and therefore can separate from the metal sleeve. Whiteline w63398. There is also a bushing pressed into the back end of the rear trailing control arm that take a lot of work to get out but easy to replace with whiteline w63394

If you are keeping the lateral arms ...

There are three per side.

The front lower lateral arm is best just replacing the whole assembly costwise.

The middle upper lateral arm has one bushing pressed in at the upper connection to the subframe (whiteline w63395) and one at set at the connection to the trailing arm(whiteline w63397 or kca 399) the kca offers camber adjustment at the this connection but it is painful to rotate the adjustment

The rear lower lateral arm has one whiteline w63396 at the upper connection to the subframe. The lower bushing is in the trailing arm rear


I hope this helps. What i wound up with on my 08 is whiteline lateral control arms KTA109, the w63398 and w63394 and KCA399 on the trailing control arm and i could not be happier. I look forward to fluid filming them in the early fall etc


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2006 OutBean, 2005 LGTW
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487029


I've got the W63393 and the W63395 on the shelf left over from when I did my Legacy GT. I ended up going with the KTA124 kit instead at the last minute. If anyone is interested.
 
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2008 Outback Wagon LL Bean Limited 2.5i
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View attachment 487029

I've got the W63393 and the W63395 on the shelf left over from when I did my Legacy GT. I ended up going with the KTA124 kit instead at the last minute. If anyone is interested.
Awesome pic. Although its mislabeled as front suspension, it is the rear suspension depicted. This would have saved me a lot of typing lmao


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Awesome pic. Although its mislabeled as front suspension, it is the rear suspension depicted. This would have saved me a lot of typing lmao


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Front suspension is on top, rear suspension is on bottom.

I didn't make it anyways.. I kindly ripped it off from someone on the LGT forums.
 

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2009 3.0R Outback
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There is also a bushing pressed into the back end of the rear trailing control arm that take a lot of work to get out but easy to replace with whiteline w63394
Not that difficult if you use the torch and cut method. Took me less than 10 minutes per side. You simply torch the rubber until to can get the whole center portion out, cut the sleeve with a reciprocating saw (I used a Diablo carbide blade; those things are amazing), then hammer the sleeve out with a screwdriver.
 

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Presently 2000 Legacy GT wagon 2.5, five speed. Maybe an '07 Forester LL Bean. Formerly 53 Ford fordor; 67, 68 and 72 Mustangs; 1950 Caddy model 61, '64 Sedan De Ville; etc. etc.
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39 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Awesome pic. Although its mislabeled as front suspension, it is the rear suspension depicted. This would have saved me a lot of typing lmao


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Excellent.
 

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Presently 2000 Legacy GT wagon 2.5, five speed. Maybe an '07 Forester LL Bean. Formerly 53 Ford fordor; 67, 68 and 72 Mustangs; 1950 Caddy model 61, '64 Sedan De Ville; etc. etc.
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39 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
View attachment 487029

I've got the W63393 and the W63395 on the shelf left over from when I did my Legacy GT. I ended up going with the KTA124 kit instead at the last minute. If anyone is interested.
Brilliant! furiously scribbles notes
I'm a kinda graphics-oriented guy, so this is huge. Picture=1000 words etc.
I'll gladly take those W63393 and W63395 bushes off of you, let me know and I can send you a Postal money order ASAP. I don't have Paypal, but SWMBO (She Who Must Be Obeyed) does, if you prefer that method.
I take it there are enough for both sides?
And I do understand that bushes are the same for both sides. Kinda obvious, in one design sense.
The W63395 in particular are needed, as the toe is horribly off, wore out a rear tire set in just 10 months. If I knew more when I bought the car...

I will be hewing my way through these bushes, one pair at a time.

Incidentally...my '64 Caddy had the upper control arm on the top of the pumpkin. It was actually the left upper control arm from the same car, Cadillac just reused it in the design.
The ball joint would allow the rear end to roll from side to side, but kept it firmly oriented. Rather elegant.
 

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Presently 2000 Legacy GT wagon 2.5, five speed. Maybe an '07 Forester LL Bean. Formerly 53 Ford fordor; 67, 68 and 72 Mustangs; 1950 Caddy model 61, '64 Sedan De Ville; etc. etc.
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Discussion Starter #17
Not that difficult if you use the torch and cut method. Took me less than 10 minutes per side. You simply torch the rubber until to can get the whole center portion out, cut the sleeve with a reciprocating saw (I used a Diablo carbide blade; those things are amazing), then hammer the sleeve out with a screwdriver.
Plastixx, I discovered the same technique about 44 years ago with my '67 Mustang..I didn't have access to a press, so what the ****...but in that case I used a hacksaw blade, threaded through the bush, and upside down. What is old is new again. Worked a charm.
Now I have the advantage of more tools and experience, AND YOU GUYS.

Just ONE warning:
DO NOT scratch/cut/gouge the bore of the arm, as that introduces a stress point that can fail.
As I also found out on my '67 Mustang.
oops.
 

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Presently 2000 Legacy GT wagon 2.5, five speed. Maybe an '07 Forester LL Bean. Formerly 53 Ford fordor; 67, 68 and 72 Mustangs; 1950 Caddy model 61, '64 Sedan De Ville; etc. etc.
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Discussion Starter #18
OK, so here's my plan:
1) Replace struts, ordered them this morning. Should be here in 2-4 days tops.
2) Replace W63393 and W63395 (hopefully from aesthetic.rake), roll bar link KLC144, and bushes WO40620...I'm staying stock, it's an old car.
3) Replace W63396, KCA399, W63394, W63398. I'll order them tomorrow.

The rear gear box...should I go with the KDT903s (4 pieces), or go with the full bushs KDT905/906 (two each)?

I have seen comments on lubricating some of the bushes, do you have recommendations for the lube and locations?

I will replace the bolts as needed, they would of course be stock Subaru.

Again, many thanks to The Hive Mind.
Or Borg Collective...your mileage my vary.
 

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2008 Outback Wagon LL Bean Limited 2.5i
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OK, so here's my plan:
1) Replace struts, ordered them this morning. Should be here in 2-4 days tops.
2) Replace W63393 and W63395 (hopefully from aesthetic.rake), roll bar link KLC144, and bushes WO40620...I'm staying stock, it's an old car.
3) Replace W63396, KCA399, W63394, W63398. I'll order them tomorrow.

The rear gear box...should I go with the KDT903s (4 pieces), or go with the full bushs KDT905/906 (two each)?

I have seen comments on lubricating some of the bushes, do you have recommendations for the lube and locations?

I will replace the bolts as needed, they would of course be stock Subaru.

Again, many thanks to The Hive Mind.
Or Borg Collective...your mileage my vary.
I believe the W63393 and W63395 will need to be pressed into the arms, its not bad but just letting you know


The KLC144 is meant for lowered and raised suspensions, and is very adjustable. You can probably save a few $$ if you went with an aftermarket part like the Moog KC0023.


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Just ONE warning:
DO NOT scratch/cut/gouge the bore of the arm, as that introduces a stress point that can fail.
As I also found out on my '67 Mustang.
oops.
I made all the cuts toward the beefier part of the arms. You really have to pay attention using a Diablo blade though; it literally chews through a bushing sleeve in seconds.
 
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