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Registered
2005 Outback 2.5i - 5 speed - 191K
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276 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Just cut them out and replace. It is not that big if a deal. The hardest part, if you replace with poly is pressing out the old bushings. IF you simply buy new control arms they will come with new bushings installed. Actually the hardest part is cutting out the old control arms. A sawzall comes in handy and pretty much required. One out, get the new ones installed. You will find that a large drift pin is your best friend with the installation. Some of my other posts go into the installation more detailed. Message me if you do this and need help/ideas.
 

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2005 Outback 2.5i - 5 speed - 191K
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276 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I actually lowered the vehicle onto jack stands that were under the control arms. This pretty much placed the vehicle at ride height. Torqued it down and got it aligned. I waited a few weeks and loosened and re torqued all the bolts. Drives great now.
 

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2005 18psi supercharged U5 Outback w/207k+ miles
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825 Posts
Help! Is the dog bone link symmetrical? i got them both out right now but cannot tell for the life of me if they are ever so slightly different or symmetrical - referring to which side of the bone gets bolted to the inside vs to the outside (wheel end).

i was super impressed with the Milkwaulkee impact again. It took 1 minute of impacting forward/backward but freed up both of the dog bone inner bolts. I think it might even loosen up the Toe adjustment bolt!!!
 

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2005 18psi supercharged U5 Outback w/207k+ miles
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825 Posts
I was trying to figure out how to cut out the toe adjustment bolts without cutting off the hangar itself. So what I finally found worked was taking off the wheel side of that arm and then stomping on it so it's pointing to the ground. This gives more clearance to get to the bolt than when the arm is parallel to the ground. I went through like 8 sawzall blades!

I still need to know about those Dog bone arms, I can't figure out which side of the arm goes to the wheel side and which to the inside.

Other than that I should be back in business soon.
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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16,225 Posts
I was trying to figure out how to cut out the toe adjustment bolts without cutting off the hangar itself. So what I finally found worked was taking off the wheel side of that arm and then stomping on it so it's pointing to the ground. This gives more clearance to get to the bolt than when the arm is parallel to the ground.

I still need to know about those Dog bone arms, I can't figure out which side of the arm goes to the wheel side and which to the inside.

Other than that I should be back in business soon.
The rear forward lateral links don't matter either end. But you want the stamping (concave part) toward the rear...so it doesn't catch debris...
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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16,225 Posts
Perfect, thank you. @traildogck I owe you some Subaru swag from Subaru Ambassadors. Any interest???? t shirt, hat, subaru parking only sign?
Yeah...sure

Subaru parking sign or T-shirt

Parking Sign...I will need that for the Pennsylvania homestead...
 

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Registered
06 Outback 2.5i, 06 BMW 325xi wagon, 02 2.5rs, 82 CB750, Polaris XC SP 500, and a single speed bike.
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876 Posts
I went through like 8 sawzall blades!
I burned through three blades on one bolt, went and spent $20 on a carbide blade and cut through the rest like butter.
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
Joined
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16,225 Posts
I burned through three blades on one bolt, went and spent $20 on a carbide blade and cut through the rest like butter.
I like to use a 4" Dewalt grinder with a cutting wheel and no guard. I like sparks flying next to the fuel tank and my face at the same time...

That's the stuff right there.
 

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Registered
06 Outback 2.5i, 06 BMW 325xi wagon, 02 2.5rs, 82 CB750, Polaris XC SP 500, and a single speed bike.
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876 Posts
i like to use a 4" dewalt grinder with a cutting wheel and no guard. I like sparks flying next to the fuel tank and my face at the same time...

That's the stuff right there.
#yolo
 

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Registered
2008 Outback Wagon LL Bean Limited 2.5i
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856 Posts
Had mine done today at Subaru. Looked at them and said thanks, can we align it now.

They said, no, need another $600 + dollars for Rear lateral links. Looking for upgrade options. Godspeed any good?

Honestly if the whole suspension is such crap from stock, does anybody offer a reasonably priced upgrade kit fo the whole thing? I don't want to race it, just not replace it in 30'000 miles.

Need #7 both sides and all assorted bushings and bolts.

All seized in place, sigh.

I believe @traildogck was talking to someone in one of the threads about the Godspeed links. about 3 months later same post'er said they bushings went bad on them. The Megan racing links have gone down in price recently front and rears can be had for around $300 new
 

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2003 Forester 2.5i, 2007 Outback LTD 2.5
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26 Posts
I believe @traildogck was talking to someone in one of the threads about the Godspeed links. about 3 months later same post'er said they bushings went bad on them. The Megan racing links have gone down in price recently front and rears can be had for around $300 new
I have had no issues with Godspeed Front rear lateral links. These and @traildogck swaybar bushings with Moog links flattened out the rear quite well. Been around 6 months.
 

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2009 3.0R Outback
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709 Posts
I believe traildogck was talking to someone in one of the threads about the Godspeed links. about 3 months later same post'er said they bushings went bad on them.
That was me. The bushings didn't go bad; every single boot split open. Also, the inner male threaded section of the rear-rear link on the passenger side stripped. Looks like the threads were cut undersized. Ended up welding it in place. :/
 

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Registered
2008 Outback Wagon LL Bean Limited 2.5i
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856 Posts
This has been an huge learning experience.



.







LOWER Control Arm - REAR: Driver Side and Passenger Side were a nightmare to get out. The outer bolts came out easily on both side and the associated bushings were still solid. That is a blessing because I was worried about removing these. The inner bushings were both futile efforts. I had to use a sawzall in combination with a cutting wheel to get them out. Inner bushings were 100% shot on both. The bushing rubber was rotted and the steel insert could move freely. The bolts were seized inside the steel collar that passed through the bushings. Good news is the bushings easily pressed out and the new bushings went in even easier. I am ordering two new Cam Bolts.



[




Whats the Whiteline part number for this bushing?
——

Edit:
Is the Rear rear lateral link upper bushing whiteline part number w63395
 

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Registered
2005 Outback; formerly 1950 Caddy model 61, '64 Sedan De Ville, '67,'68,'72 Mustangs etc.
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58 Posts
BRILLIANT take on the rear end bushings...I'm doing mine now, at 151K miles they really need it.
Replaced the rear strut assemblies with MONROE sets, it was a good start. Turned out the original owner had the struts replaced, the mechanic had used Legacy struts which were shorter..."Heck, it fits....why wait for the right parts?"

Among other things I replaced the cabin filter, hadn't been done before...ever wonder what the original filter looks like after 15 years? IT WAS FURRY!

VERY glad to see the W63398 bushes I can just replace by cutting out the old ones....I have those skills, sharply honed on a bunch of old cars...I wasn't looking forward to removing the whole stinkin' arm just to replace those.
Today I'm gonna use my 20% off coupon at Harbor Freight and get a 12 ton press....I really need it for other things, so what the heck.

MANY THANKS!
 

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Registered
2005 Outback; formerly 1950 Caddy model 61, '64 Sedan De Ville, '67,'68,'72 Mustangs etc.
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58 Posts
A thought occurs to me...
When I had to remove the inner bushes where the rubber was worn out on an old car suspension, I just put a bolt and nut on it, tight, an impact socket on the bolt head and spun it until the rubber finished disintegrating.
That let me get it out and then I could use the Sawzall blade to cut the outer shell and punch it out.
Saved me using a torch near a very leaky car fuel situation.
 
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