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2012 OB (6spd)
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all - I've got a '12 outback, 110k miles. Trying to get the left rear WB/hub assembly out of the knuckle - in the driveway. I've tried hammering the bolts from behind to push it out, slide hammer to pull it out, PB blaster the S&(&( and let it sit over night, Freeze off, hammering on the hub flange, punch and 3# sledge to try to rotate.

Looking for other suggestions? Other than punt (which I am **** close to)?
 

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I did mine on an '11 with 135000. Air chisel helped to break loose the rust, then the 5# black Smith hammer got it out, need to hit top, bottom, left, right and repeat, took about 20 minutes of hammering.

It spend $180 on a Hub Shocker. Also see. Someone use and old brake disc and make their own.

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2010 Outback 3.6R 2014 Legacy 2.5i 2003 Legacy L special edition (retired to backup)
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+1 for big nasty air hammer. when you remove it clean out the hole and put anti seize in it.

you can use an old rotor as mentioned above, remove brake caliper and bracket and reattach rotor with lugs. remove 4 bolts from hub and beat it like a red headed step child.
 

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Biggest hammer that'll fit..lots of hits...anti-seize when you put it back together.

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+1 for antiseize. I had to replace both after 10k again, only took a total of 45 minutes I think from jacking up to wheels back on ground.

Hopefully you didn't cheap out like I did ( 1Aauto).

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'10 3.6R Outback Limited, 2zr swapped Toyota Yaris track toy, '12 Mazda3 skyactive
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Other thing that has always worked for me is a cold chisel hit in behind the wheel hub between it and the knuckle.

It forces the hub out slightly and allows penetrating fluid to get in behind it. It may mar the knuckle a bit but sanding it down will get it smooth again.
 

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Just did mine both R and L rear. Right came right out, left would not move for nothing,
Hub buster, air chisel, PB Blaster, small sledge hammer, large Sledge hammer. I removed the knuckle put it in a vise. got it red hot with a blow torch, and with the large sledge hammer from the back of the knuckle like I was Babe Ruth and swinging for the fences it finally broke and popped out.
 

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What worked for me was replacing the knuckle with a nice used part from California. You'll find there are two types of comments with regard to this problem. Those from warm, sunny states will make sarcastic remarks about how easy it is, and how you must be doing something wrong. Those from rust belt states will tell you it's next to impossible to separate hub from knuckle. I'm telling you that if it's so bad that you would need to throw your back out swinging the hammer, just replace the whole shebang. So guess what sort of weather I've been enjoying.
 

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'10 3.6R Outback Limited, 2zr swapped Toyota Yaris track toy, '12 Mazda3 skyactive
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What worked for me was replacing the knuckle with a nice used part from California. You'll find there are two types of comments with regard to this problem. Those from warm, sunny states will make sarcastic remarks about how easy it is, and how you must be doing something wrong. Those from rust belt states will tell you it's next to impossible to separate hub from knuckle. I'm telling you that if it's so bad that you would need to throw your back out swinging the hammer, just replace the whole shebang. So guess what sort of weather I've been enjoying.
When it is time to replace mine I think I'm going to look at this option and see what the cost is.

Sometimes spending the extra cash is worth the time savings and lack of frustration that salt will cause.

What did you have to pay for a knuckle if you don't mind me asking?
 

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2013 Outback 2.5i Convenience
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I tried a few ways and mine would not budge (I'm in one of those salt in winter provinces). Rotor method: rotor broke. Hammer: hub laughed. 3 foot pipe wrench and sledge: wrench bounced into the fender..... D'oh.

At that point: punt. Less than 1 hour when you have a torch and a good club hammer I guess. I like to think I loosened it!

I kept the old hub and am making a hub shocker for the next one.
 

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'17 OB 3.6 , '11 OB 2.5 , '11 Legacy 2.5
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What worked for me was replacing the knuckle with a nice used part from California. You'll find there are two types of comments with regard to this problem. Those from warm, sunny states will make sarcastic remarks about how easy it is, and how you must be doing something wrong. Those from rust belt states will tell you it's next to impossible to separate hub from knuckle. I'm telling you that if it's so bad that you would need to throw your back out swinging the hammer, just replace the whole shebang. So guess what sort of weather I've been enjoying.
Yeh, I just replace the entire Knuckle assembly like you, and other associated parts while I'm in there. I do all OEM, and get new bushings all the way around that way. With a $200 HubBearing and a $300 Knuckle, and the other parts, it ends up being a little pricey for just a noisy bearing, but my '11 OB has 180k and the bushings are shot. For the price, I got to do it myself, know it's done right, and I will not have to mess with that corner of the vehicle again. And if I do, plenty of anti-seize will ensure I WON'T be swinging a sledge anymore :) Cheaper than a new car payment. Good Luck to the OP, keep us posted.
 
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