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Discussion Starter #1
Hi I own a tired out 2005 Legacy outback and the rear wiper quit working this last winter so I decided I would take on the challenge. First found none of the fuses were blown then went back opened the hatch and closed it the rear wiper moved to the oppisite side and stopped never to move again, A quick class at "University of Youtube" showed the most common issue is wiring issues with these models is at the rubber boot piece next to the hinge on the Right side. So I removed the boot and found a previous repair splice to the yellow green wire had failed. I thought I had found my problem. I realised that putting the repir splice right at the failure point was not a good plan, so I removed enough interior trim to get to the harness and unplugged it down by the Right tail llight. I pulled both end of the wires down enough to get to them and to get some slack I had to cut the electrical tape in the lower right lower corner of the window in order to free up the wire harness I needed as it was wrapped into a bunch of other wire looms that were not involved. I decided to fix it properly this time and not place the repair splices at the failure point again. so I replaced the butt splice on the hatch lid side but then added shrink wrap to the wires on each side then a second shrink wrap layer over everything to help releive some of the wire stress and keep it from chafing or cutting again. I then snaked a safety wire through the boot so I could later pull the wires back through. I then added a generous length of new wire to the hatch side, shrank up all the shink wraps and pulled it all back through the boot into the ceiling of the car. Once I had me new wire fully down into the head liner, I spliced the yellew green wire and did the same supportive shrink wrap on those ends too. So niether of the splices are anywhere near where the wire bends and flexes anymore. That is all new wire clear through the boot. I protected the new wire with shrink wrap to keep it protected this worked very well. Much better solution than working right there in the limited space inside the boot like they did the first time. So I now had 12 volts to the motor via the yellow blue wire again. But it still does not work Looks like the yellow blue is the power in and the black ground wire comes out of the motor and stays black back into the harness is ground for sure. Can anyone confirm the yellow blue wire is power for the wiper? My car has 4 wires at the plug for the motor, not three as I have seen in the drawings. I ohmed out the motor between the YB 12 volt power wire terminal and the black ground terminal and show an open. So I suspect the motor is shot as well. I ordered a new one today and will report back. I hope this repair helps you when it happens to your gen 3 and it will given time. It is a better repair. it moves both splices out of the hinge area, and much easier to access things.. My door side splice is up inside the hatch framework now where it ddoesnt move and the lower one is on top of the head liner, where it also will never move. BTW you do not need to remove all those panels from the rear seat back like the one YT video showed. I was able to get the the plugs behind the tail light by just removing the aft pillar covering and the screws on the side panel I had just enough room to get in there and pull the entire plug out to where I could reach it.
 

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My car has 4 wires at the plug for the motor, not three as I have seen in the drawings. I ohmed out the motor between the YB 12 volt power wire terminal and the black ground terminal and show an open.
Diagram shows 4 wires at the motor. Not sure about that YB (Yellow with black stripe) wire; not shown in the diagram.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
wire is yellow green R39/D36 is the plug I am talking about. I only see three. But it does show that YG is the power as I suspected. Thanks
 

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wire is yellow green R39/D36 is the plug I am talking about. I only see three. But it does show that YG is the power as I suspected. Thanks
There's four at the motor connector.

The motor connector is D43. It's a square connector with 4 pins. All four are used; they are pins 1, 2, 3 and 4, which I have highlighted in the attached diagram. The 4th wire is the Black ground. 2005 rear wiper 2.jpg

Yes, Yellow/green (YG) makes more sense. That wire brings power to the switched contact in the motor internal switch (pin 1). It only provides power to the motor after the motor has started turning and has moved the wiper arm off the "park" position. From there, the switch changes position (from where it is in the diagram), and that continues to power the motor until the arm goes through a full sweep. If the power from the BIU at pin 2 is still On (depends on the position of the main rear wiper switch) the motor repeats the cycle. If there's no power at pin 2, the motor stops as soon as its internal switch moves back to the position in the diagram. That should correspond to the arm's "park" position. The wiper system needs power at pins 1 and 2 for the motor to continue to run.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you for that that clears things up greatly I'll check that other wire tonight after work for power.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well the saga continues I now have power at the Yellow green but not the blue. I cannot find any breaks in the Blue wire If I am reading it correctly both should show 12 volts. The blue wire is reading .01 volts That is kinda odd. But while I was messing around, I shut the lid and my radio lost signal, I pulled the other left hand boot and found two black ground wires cut. Got those fixed the same way twice as fast too But I still have no power to blue. Where is the fuse for blue under the dash or under the hood?
 

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I now have power at the Yellow green but not the blue.
do you mean the blue with white stripe (LW) at pin 3 of the harness connector at the motor? When the motor is in the "parked" position, that pin is grounded through the switch (see wiring diagram attached above). When the arm is moved off "park", the switch position changes, connecting the LW at pin 3 to the YG at pin 1, thereby connecting power to the LW wire. That then goes into the BIU and back out via the LG to the motor.
 

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Are you certain the wiper shaft is not rusted and seized ? I had a similar problem on my 2006 Outback. No fuses were blown and no wiring problems. It simply would not move. If I turned the rear wiper on and then gently assisted it with my hand it would move. I could tell that the motor was trying but it could not overcome the resistance of the rust on the shaft. I removed the entire unit, removed the shaft, cleaned off the rust, regreased, reasembled and not it's good as new. I think a rusted shaft is a fairly common problem. It might not be an electrical problem at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I just bought a new motor to rule that out. Still got no power to the blue/ White wire. Nothing broken in the boot that I can find. Checked fuses. Could the motor need to be jumped to put it back in park position? The blue white wire changes color somewhere in the harness. Do both 12 volt sources go through the same plug behind the right tail light
 

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Do both 12 volt sources go through the same plug behind the right tail light
The three wires going to the motor at the top in the wiring diagram go through same connection R39/D35.
Still got no power to the blue/ White wire.
There will not be any power on that wire when the motor and wiper arm, in the parked position (i.e., where the wiper blade should be when stopped). That wire has power only when the wiper arm is away from the park position. That's because there's a switch inside the motor assembly (shown in the wiring diagram). When the motor has moved the wiper arm away from the park position, the switch changes position (from where it is in the diagram), thereby connecting to pin 1, i.e., the yellow/green wire, which has power from fuse #23.



With the 4-pin wiring harness connector to the motor disconnected, and measuring at the harness connector:

1) There should be 12 V at the yellow-green (YG) wire at pin 1 when the ignition switch is at ACC or at ON.

2) There should be 12 V at the light green (Lg) wire at pin 2 with the ignition at ACC or at ON, and the rear wiper switch set to ON as well.

3) Measuring at the disconnected wiring connector, there will not be any power at the blue-white (LW) wire at pin 4.

4) There should be no resistance (Ohms) between the black (B) wire at pin 3 of the connector and a good body ground.

Measuring at the connector on the new motor itself, and if the new motor has not been run:

1) There should be short between pins 3 and 4.

2) There should be some resistance between pins 2 and 3 (motor windings).

3) There should be an open circuit between pins 1 and 4.
 

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2) There should be 12 V at the light green (Lg) wire at pin 2 with the ignition at ACC or at ON.
The lt green wire has no power will check at the motor when I get the chance. TY
That might be my error. For measurement 2), in addition to the ignition switch being at ACC or ON, the rear wiper switch should be at the On position as well. (corrected above)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok I had to remove more the rear floorboard and the door sill plate to get the rt rear panel further open so I could get to the proper plug behind the tail light. I ohmed that wire out between D43 and D34 and had an open somewhere in between. Went back to the Rt boot and sure enough with a little pulling Tada!!! broken wire. THat make the 4th wire I have found broken in that spot. The good new is I found my soldering butt splices. Added the extension and soldered the wires together. Not going to use thse crap crimping style now that I have the soldering ones. In the morning, I'll pull the new wire through the boot and splice the other end. I'll let you know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok I had to remove the rear cargo area floorboard and the door sill plate to get the rt rear panel further open so I could get to the proper plug behind the tail light. Once I confirmed I had the correct plug, I ohmed that wire out between D43 and D34 and had an open somewhere in between. Went back to the Rt boot and sure enough with a little pulling Tada!!! broken wire AGAIN!! That make the 4th wire I have found broken in that spot. (two on each side. The good news is I found my soldering butt splices. Added the extension and soldered the wires together. Not going to use those crap crimping style connectors now that I have the soldering ones. I spliced the wires back together, even took a video but I have no idea how to post it here. Everything works as advertized. If anyone needs a good wiper motor I have one. Thanks for all he help.
 
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