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120 Posts
Hey folks,
Sometime in the last 5,000 miles, I developed a bad shimmy in the steering wheel between 60mph and 70mph. 2012 2.5i w/ CVT.
My front wheel weights fell off sometime before the shimmy, so I replaced them with balancing beads, and while it took care of the side to side shimmy the entire car felt on the highway, the steering wheel one is still present. I did not replace any drivetrain components (since buying the car new and now has 72k on it) except for tires 25,000 miles ago, and brake rotors/pads at the same time (Powerstop Z23 one click kit). Been great since then until 5,000 miles ago
I checked drivetrain and no ball joints are loose. It is more pronounced on Decel (foot off throttle on highway) so I know it's not a CV joint and it's front end weight load dependent. I felt the top of the toddler's seat and it reverberates throughtout the entire car during decel.
I got under it today to start pulling on things and feeling around and discovered that every non-solid rubber bushing from front to back is beginning to crack, and the front lower control arms especially are looking very bad. So I plan on replacing them with solid poly guys where I can. Cheaper than buying new arms, and only 1 or 2 $ more per than the dealership for replacement bushings.
I'll let you guys know if that fixes the shimmy. Currently I have a tad bit of uneven tire wear because of it, but nothing to write home about.
Currently parts sit at the following:
20204AJ020 - Vertically aligned Bushing $26 per for Poly from Siberian Polyurethane
20204AG040 - Horizontally aligned bushing $16 per for Poly from Siberian Polyurethane
Ball Joint - 20206AJ000 - probably gonna get a new one from rock auto...
Plan on doing the rear suspension next.
Torque values are the following:
Control Arm to Sway Bar (Stabilizer Bar) 22ftlbs
Control Arm to frame Crossmember 72 ftlbs
Control Arm to Rear Mount 181 ftlbs
Ball joint: 36 ftlbs
Anyone know if any of hte bolts are TTY?
Sometime in the last 5,000 miles, I developed a bad shimmy in the steering wheel between 60mph and 70mph. 2012 2.5i w/ CVT.
My front wheel weights fell off sometime before the shimmy, so I replaced them with balancing beads, and while it took care of the side to side shimmy the entire car felt on the highway, the steering wheel one is still present. I did not replace any drivetrain components (since buying the car new and now has 72k on it) except for tires 25,000 miles ago, and brake rotors/pads at the same time (Powerstop Z23 one click kit). Been great since then until 5,000 miles ago
I checked drivetrain and no ball joints are loose. It is more pronounced on Decel (foot off throttle on highway) so I know it's not a CV joint and it's front end weight load dependent. I felt the top of the toddler's seat and it reverberates throughtout the entire car during decel.
I got under it today to start pulling on things and feeling around and discovered that every non-solid rubber bushing from front to back is beginning to crack, and the front lower control arms especially are looking very bad. So I plan on replacing them with solid poly guys where I can. Cheaper than buying new arms, and only 1 or 2 $ more per than the dealership for replacement bushings.
I'll let you guys know if that fixes the shimmy. Currently I have a tad bit of uneven tire wear because of it, but nothing to write home about.
Currently parts sit at the following:
20204AJ020 - Vertically aligned Bushing $26 per for Poly from Siberian Polyurethane
20204AG040 - Horizontally aligned bushing $16 per for Poly from Siberian Polyurethane
Ball Joint - 20206AJ000 - probably gonna get a new one from rock auto...
Plan on doing the rear suspension next.
Torque values are the following:
Control Arm to Sway Bar (Stabilizer Bar) 22ftlbs
Control Arm to frame Crossmember 72 ftlbs
Control Arm to Rear Mount 181 ftlbs
Ball joint: 36 ftlbs
Anyone know if any of hte bolts are TTY?