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'02 H6 Outback VDC sedan
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129 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have the cone bearings, seals, clip, and hub out. Do I really need to remove the knuckle and have the old race pressed out and new one pressed in, or can I get away with whacking the old one out and tapping the new one in while the knuckle is still on the car? Anyone done it without presses?

I've never seen a bearing race that's 1&3/8" wide before, so I'm wondering if all that surface area will keep it pretty well aligned as it's driven in?

Also, what's the best way to install a new hub once I've gotten the new race in? Is it a bad idea to use the axle nut to pull the hub into the inside bearing using the clip to hold the bearing as I pull it together? Auto parts store guy was suggesting using allthread and a custom washer setup, but that sounds like a big PITA.

Any advice from those who've done the whole operation on their own is appreciated.
 

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01 VDC, 05 R Sedan, 06 BAJA EJ257
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15,483 Posts
Yes you need to change the race. No, do not hammer on the hub, you will damage the new bearing.

You need steady pressure. You may be able to take all your parts to a local shop and get them pressed together for a small fee.
 

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06 OBW 2.5, 05 Forester, had 03 H6 OBW
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5,947 Posts
You could swing by harbor freight and give the front-wheel-drive service kit a shot for removing/installing the bearings, or get the 300 dollar hub-tamer.

I used a 20T press to do mine.
 

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Premium Member
01 VDC, 05 R Sedan, 06 BAJA EJ257
Joined
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15,483 Posts
You could swing by harbor freight and give the front-wheel-drive service kit a shot for removing/installing the bearings, or get the 300 dollar hub-tamer.

I used a 20T press to do mine.
The press always works best. Also be sure to torque the axle nut again after you get the wheel on the ground.
 

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06 OBW 2.5, 05 Forester, had 03 H6 OBW
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5,947 Posts
The press always works best. Also be sure to torque the axle nut again after you get the wheel on the ground.
Manual says to not let the wheel touch without the nut torqued- I always use a piece of wood to press on the brake pedal and use the brakes to hold it still.

Now if you get the nut pretty darn tight (get the inner races drawn together and the axle fully drawn into the races and get some preload on the bearings) and then lower the wheel and torque it, that's probably OK.
 

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'02 H6 Outback VDC sedan
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129 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Ooops, forgot to post update, still gotta figure out email notification.

Here's the procedure as I remember it: I basically whacked the old hub and bearings out while the knuckle was still on the car. I then removed the knuckle and the retaining snapring and used a bearing race driver kit and hammer to knock out the old race and knock the new one in. Reinstalled the snapring. Next I set the greased outboard bearing in and installed the outboard seal. (I *think* the snapring was reinstalled before the inboard bearing as I believe it only retains the race and not the bearing) After that, I used allthread/long bolt, a washer, and a big socket on the inboard bearing to pull the new hub into the new bearings while keeping the inboard bearing in place. Once I was sure the hub was all the way in I installed the inboard seal with a bunch more grease. Reassembled everything on the car and torqued the axle nut pretty good before mounting a wheel and lowering the car to final torque it. Have been commuting over 300 mi a week for almost 3 weeks or so and no complaints from the car.
 
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