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1995 Subaru legacy and 2007 Subaru Outback
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The dealer replaced 2 fuses that were not marked for this issue but those fuses and my wire repair job fixed the issue. im currently waiting for a new harness from subaru for $40 at my shop discount. But it all works.
 

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2019 Outback 2.5i Premium
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As long as this thread is at the top, can anyone confirm if the factory harness includes the rubber boot that holds the wires running from the body to the tailgate? The last place to repair it hacked it to pieces to fix the wires and just left it open to the elements. I fixed it myself with electrical tape and silicone but it looks like crap and needs to be touched up every so often. I figure if a new harness includes the boot I'll just replace the whole thing rather than go junkyard picking, buy new wire to splice in, then teach myself how to solder.
 

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As long as this thread is at the top, can anyone confirm if the factory harness includes the rubber boot that holds the wires running from the body to the tailgate? The last place to repair it hacked it to pieces to fix the wires and just left it open to the elements. I fixed it myself with electrical tape and silicone but it looks like crap and needs to be touched up every so often. I figure if a new harness includes the boot I'll just replace the whole thing rather than go junkyard picking, buy new wire to splice in, then teach myself how to solder.
Yes, it does. As there are connectors at both the car and hatch ends of the harness, and some connectors are too large to go through the boot easily (if at all) the boot is installed over the wires while the harness is being made up. The harness is installed by removing the old one, then feeding the connectors on the car side through the opening in the body, and the connectors going to the hatch through the opening in the hatch. The boot is then fitted to the openings to provide a seal.
 

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2019 Outback 2.5i Premium
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Thank you for the response. I've been to a couple web sites to track down this part and I can't seem to confirm which variant is correct. Although I'm leaning towards the C version, the Subaru web site does not acknowledge the existence of the 2008 Base; even my VIN comes up as not found. The closest I get is the C version for the '07 or '09 Base. Can anyone confirm the correct version for the '08? I don't trust the desk monkeys at my local dealer as I've received incorrect parts from them before.

And once I do get the part and the ambition to replace it, any tips on reinforcing it so it doesn't break again? I was thinking about wrapping the bundle tightly with electrical tape to minimize movement of the individual wires. Ideally I would just replace the wires themselves with something more flexible but I don't have the tools or experience to do that, at least correctly.
 

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I wound up splicing the wires last year, but didn't do a great job. I wound up cutting the boots on my hatch to make repairs. Is it possible to get just the boots, so I can repair it properly this time? Also, if that's not the case, does anyone know a part number for the harness on the left side on my 2005 Subaru Legacy wagon?
 

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I wound up splicing the wires last year, but didn't do a great job. I wound up cutting the boots on my hatch to make repairs. Is it possible to get just the boots, so I can repair it properly this time?
Not that I am aware of. The boots come pre-installed on the rear gate wiring harness, which has connectors at the ends that will not go through the boot. A harness from a scrapped car could provide the boot, but then it still has to be installed on your harness, which means either removing the connectors at one end and sliding the wires through, or cutting all the wires, and then re-attaching them after they're all through the boot.

Also, if that's not the case, does anyone know a part number for the harness on the left side on my 2005 Subaru Legacy wagon?
Try OEM Subaru Parts Online | Subaru of America
 

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Oh man. I literally JUST did this repair YESTERDAY. used 14 new 24" pieces of 18 gauge wire and just replaced the broken sections. Spliced, Soldiered, Heat Shrink. My O5 has 193K miles. I'm not in the market for a 240 dollar wiring harness. Even if it lasts me 50K miles before I have to do it again, I'm happy with the fruits of my 3 hours labor.
 

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2017 OB Wildeness Gr. Premmy, 2.5i & 2006 OB 2.5i 200K plus
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Rear Lights issue

Yikes, looks like I have some work ahead of me, my 06 is having similar issues @ 197K, replaced the license plates lights but still not working, hi-mount brake light also not working. Fortunately I also have a new 2017 OB so old reliable can sit.
 

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In case it helps anyone ... I did this cord replacement this past weekend on my 2005 Outback (manual transmission). It was unclear whether I needed the 81812AG03A (more expensive at around $225) or 81812AG03B ($80). Local dealership said the spendy version, of course.

But I noticed on the Subaru parts webpage that the 2005 is now also listed for the "B" version. I don't think it used to be.

So I took a chance and ordered 81812AG03B ($80) and it worked fine.

Whole process took me about 5 hours as others have noted. Just have to go slow and try not to bust clips. It's a bit of a hassle but feels great getting rid of those electric gremlins.



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I’ve got a 2005 Outback XT limited, 5 speed.
Had similar gremlins with my rear gate: it didn’t lock, wiper didn’t park, defrost wasn’t working, no reverse lights, no cargo light and no license plate lights.

Took a gamble(based on the attachments) and ordered the $64 81812AG03B harness instead of the $220+ 81812AG03A harness.

I can confirm everything works fine. Nothing is different between the A harness that came off my car and the B harness I was replacing it with. All clips and harness connectors are exactly the same.

I hope this help someone save some money!

Ryan
 

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2008 Subaru Outback Base. 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5i. 2013 Harely-Davidson FLHTK.
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I just bought a 2005 Outback. Didn't notice that the lift gate lock wasn't working until I got it home. It has at least 2 wires broken. I ordered the cheaper gate harness, got it for $76.00 shipped. Figured for that price I couldn't justify repairing the wires.

Bought the car from a local used car lot, will see if he will make it right. He wants a Yelp and Google review very badly....Wonder if he wants that as a good review, or a bad review?
 

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2008 OB Limited 2.5i, Portland OR USA
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I ordered the cheaper gate harness, got it for $76.00 shipped. Figured for that price I couldn't justify repairing the wires.
Took a gamble (based on the attachments) and ordered the $64 81812AG03B harness instead of the $220+ 81812AG03A harness.

I can confirm everything works fine. Nothing is different between the A harness that came off my car and the B harness I was replacing it with. All clips and harness connectors are exactly the same.
It was unclear whether I needed the 81812AG03A (more expensive at around $225) or 81812AG03B ($80). Local dealership said the spendy version, of course.

But I noticed on the Subaru parts webpage that the 2005 is now also listed for the "B" version. I don't think it used to be.

So I took a chance and ordered 81812AG03B ($80) and it worked fine.
It's well established in wire harness design that the more bending and flexing that a point in the harness has to suffer, and the sharper the bend, the finer the wire gauge that is needed in the internal wire construction. More wires of a finer gauge can have the same ampacity of fewer wires of a coarser gauge, it only depends upon the total circular cross section. So here's a theory: Subaru realized after a while that there was a problem with the Gen 3 harnesses, and provided an alternative harness to their parts system, functionally equivalent but capable of tolerating a much higher flex cycle count. They should have pulled the old harnesses out of stock, but didn't, because, well, that's a real cost. So they kept it.

Let's hope the "A" and "B" parts are in chronological order and you guys have the better replacement harness. But I wouldn't be optimistic, given the pricing scheme quoted by Ryan, and Subaru's past behavior installing replacement head gaskets to the NA cars that were identical to the failed gaskets, when they had much better (but more expensive) turbo gaskets available that would have fixed the problem for good.
 

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2008 Subaru Outback Base. 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5i. 2013 Harely-Davidson FLHTK.
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I can say with 100% certainty that the "B" harness will work. I got it today, it is installed and everything works. It is the exact copy to the "A" harness removed from my 05. The parts guy at the dealer in Florida even emailed me and stated by VIN it would not work. I guess I know more than a Subaru parts professional. Thanks to all on this forum for the help!
 

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In case it helps anyone ... I did this cord replacement this past weekend on my 2005 Outback (manual transmission). It was unclear whether I needed the 81812AG03A (more expensive at around $225) or 81812AG03B ($80). Local dealership said the spendy version, of course.

But I noticed on the Subaru parts webpage that the 2005 is now also listed for the "B" version. I don't think it used to be.

So I took a chance and ordered 81812AG03B ($80) and it worked fine.

Whole process took me about 5 hours as others have noted. Just have to go slow and try not to bust clips. It's a bit of a hassle but feels great getting rid of those electric gremlins.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
Right now my only problem is the rear wiper but think i'll go ahead with the "B" harness. Looks like online a localdealer for $70+/-.
 

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2005 Outback 2.5XT Limited 5SP Manual 206K Miles
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I’ve got a 2005 Outback XT limited, 5 speed.
Had similar gremlins with my rear gate: it didn’t lock, wiper didn’t park, defrost wasn’t working, no reverse lights, no cargo light and no license plate lights.

Took a gamble(based on the attachments) and ordered the $64 81812AG03B harness instead of the $220+ 81812AG03A harness.

I can confirm everything works fine. Nothing is different between the A harness that came off my car and the B harness I was replacing it with. All clips and harness connectors are exactly the same.

I hope this help someone save some money!

Ryan
Gosh DARN IT!!! Read this a day late and $120.00 SHORT!!! Started reading these threads to prepare to install my BRAND NEW OVERPRICED WIRING HARNESS!!!
 

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2009 Outback 2.5L, automatic
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The dealer replaced 2 fuses that were not marked for this issue but those fuses and my wire repair job fixed the issue. im currently waiting for a new harness from subaru for $40 at my shop discount. But it all works.
I have a 2009 Outback 2.5 L base model wagon with 100,000 miles. Rear wiper just stopped working. Washer still pumps, but no washer arm movement on any switch position. Since the same fuse, 15A no. 23, controls both wiper and washer I doubt it is the fuse but will pull it for drill. The lock and lights also work fine. I checked the wires at both ends of the boot, all in good condition from what I can tell, no breaks below (in the body hole) inside the boot from top and bottom, or above the boot (in the hatch hole). I think the two remaining systems are motor and switch on the stem (however, the washer pump does function when the switch knob is rotated to both settings that activate it.) What does this elimination suggest? Thanks to the Forum for great info, advice and response time.
 

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1996 Subaru Outback 2.5 DOHC AWD w/ Automatic Transmission
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After having to mess with broken wires in the right side (passenger side) rubber boot a couple times, I finally downloaded the 230 pages of wire diagrams and tried to build a chart showing which wire connectors were fed by what wire and a list of wires by color that would describe what they did. Don't think there are errors, but proceed with caution as I'm not a mechanic, but can generally read wiring diagrams, LOL!!! I think these should apply to 2005-2009. Hope these help you all save some time!!!

PS-If you have to mess with the wires in the left boot, to my understanding there are only the various black wires that feed the antenna amplifier along with the rear washer fluid tube contained within that boot.
 

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I have mine apart right now. I was about to upload the pics to the thread I started last week. I only have the one wire to my rear hatch solenoid that is broken. The wire is just too short in my case. I can't even get the ends to touch, so it's been under a heck of a load for a long time. I'm going to guess a lot of us are about to experience this. As soon as I get the pics uploaded I'll tie my thread to this one.
Pull both ends of the wire out of the boot. One section will be in the head liner. The other in the lift hatch. Splice in a long section of new wire. Pull the new wire through the boot, using lock wire or similar material Leaving enough Wire to place the lift gate side splice into the frame of the hatch. The other splice above the head liner. That way there is no splices in side the gator boot
 
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