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2001 Subaru Outback 2.5L Manual
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Discussion Starter #1
I was wondering if anyone has had this problem or can tell me what I did wrong. I replaced the rear shocks on my 2000 OB and now I have a rattle sound coming from the same location. Do you think this is the top bolt on the shock where it mounts to the rubber spring stopper? Mounted improperly or nothing to worry about? I would hate to have to line up the bottom of that shock again. Tried to save some money and do it myself and now I am regretting it. Rides better, however the sound is bothering me.
 

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2017 3.6R Limited (Wifes), 2009 3.0R Limited 125k (Mine)
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Did you torque the strut locking nut at the top of the piston? If not, with the car on the ground torque both strut nuts to 35-40 ft lbs. Also torque the mounts while on the ground to 22 ft lbs. I would loosen all bolts a little or just under torque spec and re-torque everything. The shock mount bolt at the bottom needs to be torqued to 116 ft lbs. Make sure the spring is sitting correctly in the mount and in the exact orientation they were originally.

If you do have to line them up again use your floor jack under the shock mount to raise the shock until lined up. Took me a couple minutes each side to line them up on my 01. Good luck.
 

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OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
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rears are fairly simple - just one bolt at the bottom and the nuts on the top...check them, snug them up if you have too.

did the top mounts look good, any cracking, breaks, etc?

i guess your top mount nut might not be tight enough - did you hold it stationary while tightening the nut? i believe it was like an allen wrench in the middle to hold it...etc? i've just zipped them on with an air gun before, but depends on the strut, nut, etc.
 

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2001 Subaru Outback 2.5L Manual
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Discussion Starter #5
I will torque the top four bolts inside the cab with the car lowered that hopfully fixes it. The new Monroe shocks did not have an Allen on the top of the shock so I could not torque them, only got them snug.

Thanks for your responses.

A couple of replies to your response H61

If not, with the car on the ground torque both strut nuts to 35-40 ft lbs.
you can get to them when it is mounted?

Also torque the mounts while on the ground to 22 ft lbs. I would loosen all bolts a little or just under torque spec and re-torque everything.
Will do
The shock mount bolt at the bottom needs to be torqued to 116 ft lbs.
dont think this is the noise.
Make sure the spring is sitting correctly in the mount and in the exact orientation they were originally.
You mean rotationally? There seems to be only one way to get the spring in the mount.

If you do have to line them up again use your floor jack under the shock mount to raise the shock until lined up. Took me a couple minutes each side to line them up on my 01.
Not sure what you mean on this one. Can you clarify. Unbolt the bottom bolt to do this?
Good luck.
 

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2017 3.6R Limited (Wifes), 2009 3.0R Limited 125k (Mine)
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I will torque the top four bolts inside the cab with the car lowered that hopfully fixes it. The new Monroe shocks did not have an Allen on the top of the shock so I could not torque them, only got them snug.

Thanks for your responses.

A couple of replies to your response H61

If not, with the car on the ground torque both strut nuts to 35-40 ft lbs.
you can get to them when it is mounted? I was able to on my 01
Also torque the mounts while on the ground to 22 ft lbs. I would loosen all bolts a little or just under torque spec and re-torque everything.
Will do
The shock mount bolt at the bottom needs to be torqued to 116 ft lbs.
dont think this is the noise.
Make sure the spring is sitting correctly in the mount and in the exact orientation they were originally.
You mean rotationally? There seems to be only one way to get the spring in the mount. Not rotationally ensure the spring is seated properly and not off center

If you do have to line them up again use your floor jack under the shock mount to raise the shock until lined up. Took me a couple minutes each side to line them up on my 01.
Not sure what you mean on this one. Can you clarify. Unbolt the bottom bolt to do this? While the bolt is out I put a about a 4 inch length of 2x4 on top of the floor jack and raised it under the shock mount. Once both the shock and mount were lined up I put the bolt in and released the floor jack. If you ever have to remove those bolts again this might work out a little easier. I used a pick as well to get the holes lined up.
Good luck.

While on the ground and settled in I think you will get a good torque on everything. I did not need to use an allen on my KYB's.
 

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2001 Subaru Outback 2.5L Manual
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Discussion Starter #7
how do you torque the top bolt on the shock when it is mounted?

I checked everything else and could not find anything loose.
 

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2017 3.6R Limited (Wifes), 2009 3.0R Limited 125k (Mine)
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how do you torque the top bolt on the shock when it is mounted?

I checked everything else and could not find anything loose.
With the vehicle on the ground on my 01 I am able to get a 3/8 drive torque wrench on the strut nuts as well as two mount nuts. If all is torqued properly as well as the bottom bolt then it sounds like you may have bad mounts or the noise is unrelated to the struts. Unlikely but I guess it could be the strut (defective) making the racket.
 

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Car: 2008 Tribeca, 2010 LGT, Sold: 2005 XT Limited
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What about the dust boot? Is it seated correctly?
 

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2001 Subaru Outback 2.5L Manual
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Discussion Starter #11
What about the dust boot? Is it seated correctly?
driving it this morning it kind of sounded like that. But louder

Sound comes only when the shocks move a little like on a gravel road. dock-a-dock-dk-dkdk

Still fearing the top bold needs to be tightened. Thinking back. Maybe I did not compress the springs enough putting it back together. But why would that matter all I needed to do was snug the shock to the plate...right?
 

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The shock bolt must be tightened all the way. There should be about 1/4" of thread when you are done.

You should turn the bolt until you cannot turn it anymore.
 

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Car: 2008 Tribeca, 2010 LGT, Sold: 2005 XT Limited
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It does sound like the top bolt isn't tight. If the shock was full extended and spring was fully pushing on the top hat, then the torque on the nut isn't right. you need to have the spring compressed completely to properly torque the nut (either by having the weight of the vehicle on the spring or by the spring compressors taking the load of the springs). Otherwise you aren't measuring the torque of the nut 'squeezing' the top hat between itself and the shoulder of the shock rod, but rather the top hat pushing against the springs. This could leave space between the shock rod shoulder and the top hat, resulting in it moving up and hitting the top hat.

With the weight of the vehicle on the ground, if you can get a wrench on that top nut, you should be able to tighten it up, hopefully even torque it if you can get a torque wrench in there. A socket and vice grips can be enough (but annoying). You probably don't have to hold the shock rod with the center allen key since the weight of the vehicle is on there, but you might have to if it is super loose. You'll have to look for the shock rod turning. If it does, you'll need a way to hold it (with the allen in the center top and a pass through socket or a socket on vice grips).

Good luck!
 
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