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2005 Outback, 2.5 L
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I tried replacing my 2006 Outback 2.5's rear rotors today with Power Stop K4632-26 AND Autozone Duralast rear rotors. I had had a mechanic try to replace the rear rotors a few weeks ago while he was doing some other work with the Powerstops.

When I picked up the car, the mechanic said that the Powerstop rotors didn't fit due to the inner race lip being higher than the rotor flat. I called Powerstop and told them that they didn't fit and they sent me replacements under warranty.

I was weary about the Powerstops not fitting again, so I went by and picked up some Autozone Duralast Rotors just in case they didn't fit. Before disassembling the rear brakes, I compared the Autozone and Powerstop rotors, and they matched. I got everything apart and put the Powerstops in. When I torqued everything down, the wheel locked up and wouldn't rotate (just as the mechanic said). I then compared the Powerstops, Autozone's and the rotors on the car (i suspect OEMs). The Powerstops and Autozone's matched in size, however the OEM rotors didn't have the inner race lip raised. The inner race lip was flush with with rotor flat. OEM hubs on the car.

Anyone have any ideas?
 

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2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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2005 Outback, 2.5 L
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46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
did you compare those part #s with what rockauto.com lists. ? they sell powerstop:

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,2006,outback,2.5l+h4,1432741,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor,1896

(rockauto has a pretty nice database for parts, makes it easy to see what goes on what,
and see the differences between H6, H4, turbo and how low slung legacy mixes parts with the legacy outback).

edit, whoops I only see power stop fronts there.

how about power stop's own factory website?
Yep. Everything matches up on the powerstop rotors (both sets)
 

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2005 OBXT Limited, VF37, STI intake, 5MT
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Did your mechanic "remove" the outer, thin dust shield from the backing plate before putting on the new rotor?

I've seen this a few times, guys go to cut/hammer/bend off the rusty outer shield and end-up bending the thick, fat lip of the backing plate (acts as a "guard" for the e-brake components) which must ride in the groove of the rotor. I'd wager the old rotor also don't spin freely once torqued down either.

The fix is usually to hammer back down the backing plate lip so it stops contacting the rotor.
 

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OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
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1. OEM rotors last the life of the vehicle, could have just kept them or turned them and not think about them again.
2. are you positive the rear brakes have never been swapped? some subaru's of this era you can swap the brackets and rotors easily and retain the same caliper, so it's the easiest brake upgrade to do (no need to swap calipers/bleed lines).

if they're different, post pictures of the rotors.

look online for various rotors and see which models get what and you might stumble on the confusion, for example, here's two similar era rear rotors:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OE...ash=item1ea306a05b:g:920AAOSwd0BV1QBf&vxp=mtr

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OE...ash=item2100f60d41:g:pIUAAOSw9N1V07jA&vxp=mtr
 

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2005 Outback, 2.5 L
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46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
1. OEM rotors last the life of the vehicle, could have just kept them or turned them and not think about them again.
2. are you positive the rear brakes have never been swapped? some subaru's of this era you can swap the brackets and rotors easily and retain the same caliper, so it's the easiest brake upgrade to do (no need to swap calipers/bleed lines).

if they're different, post pictures of the rotors.

look online for various rotors and see which models get what and you might stumble on the confusion, for example, here's two similar era rear rotors:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OE...ash=item1ea306a05b:g:920AAOSwd0BV1QBf&vxp=mtr

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OE...ash=item2100f60d41:g:pIUAAOSw9N1V07jA&vxp=mtr
Did your mechanic "remove" the outer, thin dust shield from the backing plate before putting on the new rotor?

I've seen this a few times, guys go to cut/hammer/bend off the rusty outer shield and end-up bending the thick, fat lip of the backing plate (acts as a "guard" for the e-brake components) which must ride in the groove of the rotor. I'd wager the old rotor also don't spin freely once torqued down either.

The fix is usually to hammer back down the backing plate lip so it stops contacting the rotor.
I wouldn't have replaced the rotors, but they were a bit warped from rust and sitting (also- not sure the were OEM). It turns out it was the backing plate to the e brake. The dust shield was really rusty and must have pushed up the e-brake back shield a bit. I got the lip taken off the new rotors at my local subie mechanic, and hammered in that back shield. It 95% worked (where the car is drives), but you can hear the inner edge of the of the rotor hit whatever e brake shield lip that is.

I have already taken the brakes and rotors apart a few times (and its cold here) so for the time being it will have to do. I am gunna have my subie guy put it up on the lift, pop the bolts off, hammer in shield next week and be done with it.
 
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