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Discussion Starter #1
was wondering if anyone in practice has had to use an 8mm bolt to get rotors off of hubs ?

its something i saw in the maintenance manual but figured if the rotors are seized i can use a mallet to loosen them off the hub.

dont have an outback, doing the first brake replacement on a 2016 forester (2.5L premium model).
 

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05 Xt beatin' to an inch of its life
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Ya. Threading the bolts in the two holes is best practice. Its more sympathetic to the whole assembly and easier than a mallet.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ya. Threading the bolts in the two holes is best practice. Its more sympathetic to the whole assembly and easier than a mallet.
thanks

what type of thread should i look for ? 8mm diameter but what pitch ?

i will go buy some to have on hand for the brake job but i suspect the rotors will come off with some light tapping.
 

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2012 Outback Ltd 3.6r
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I replaced the rotors with my pads, and didn't care about damaging the old rotors. - Used a 2lb hammer, and all but one popped off in 2-3 good taps. (That 4th one I had to take a few good strikes at).

On the rears, at least for the 4th Gen, you may need to retract the shoes on the parking brake, for which there's a rubber plug on the rotor you pop out to access the star-adjustment wheel, in order to pull the rear rotors. (They use a secondary shoe/pad for the parking mechanism). - Be sure to align the access hole with the rubber plug when re-installing the rotor, if so equipped, or you may not be able to remove them without damage the next time.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i
I replaced the rotors with my pads, and didn't care about damaging the old rotors. - Used a 2lb hammer, and all but one popped off in 2-3 good taps. (That 4th one I had to take a few good strikes at).

On the rears, at least for the 4th Gen, you may need to retract the shoes on the parking brake, for which there's a rubber plug on the rotor you pop out to access the star-adjustment wheel, in order to pull the rear rotors. (They use a secondary shoe/pad for the parking mechanism).
was wondering about that, i dont have the service manual for the forester so im not sure how to retract the hand brake shoes. assumed that keeping the hand brake down/not engaged would do it.

i have the service manual for my legacy, might take a look to see. my legacy has an electric e brake so it doesnt have shoes to retract.
 

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05 Xt beatin' to an inch of its life
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^not sure, all discs are different and the holes are always rusty. Just try any junk 10mm head bolt and it should work.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
a few good taps does nothing with a metal hammer. i decided to go and get a few 8mm bolts. using just one of the threaded holes with wd40 sprayed on the bolt ... made removing the rotor as easy as plugging your phone in to charge.

so the correct bolt size is m8-1.25.
the front caliper supports bolts (17mm) were pretty tough to get off. had to use a long ratchet and smack it with a heavy duty mallet to break them loose.

stainless steel hardware and brake parts would make it easier to service over these alloy steel parts that rust like crazy.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i am coming up on doing the brakes on my Legacy and since I do not have the Subaru select monitor thing to put the vehicle into brake maintenance mode, i found an alternate procedure without doing brake maintenance mode ....

basically just compress the piston using a c-clamp.

would that be alright to do on the rears, which have the parking brake actuator/motor ? wondering about that because the actuator might work like a lead screw on the actuator and i don't want to put a c-clamp on that to force it if that's not the right way to do it.
 
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