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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I just bought a 2009 Subaru Outback 2 weeks ago and it needed a little bit of TLC to get it where it needs to be. Right now, I'm working on repairing the audio on the drivers door. Both the tweeter and speaker don't work. I've replaced the headunit with a nice Double-DIN headunit with Android Auto and it works great, but the speakers on the left door still didn't work. A few days ago, I ordered a replacement wiring harness and today I had the chance to do a test run and dry fit with the panel off. It looks like two of the connectors (tweeter and speaker) do not match up with the wiring harness I received (though looking at the video below, it convinces me the harness I got should be fine).


Harness I bought (speaker connections only):
469785


Harness in the car currently (tweeter):
469783

Harness in the car currently (speaker connector):
469784


As you can see the connectors don't match up. My current plan is to cut the old connectors and reuse them (at least for the tweeter) and wire them into the harness I received.

Before I take this approach which will likely destroy the original harness, I want to ensure that replacing the wiring harness shouldn't require removal of the door (it's a little tight). Basically, I'm planning on spending 1-2 hours tomorrow or later this week swapping the harness. I was able to access the connection under the dash for the front left door fairly easy and looking at the rest of the connectors, this harness matches up. Does anyone have experience replacing this harness and if so, any advice? Additionally, should I order a different harness and if so, does anyone have the part number (I'm the base model FWIW).

Thanks in advance!
 

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Don't know how much different the procedure would be, but I replaced the wiring harness in both front doors earlier this year. (I swapped out the original side mirrors with the ones with integrated turn signals and needed the proper connector to be able to use the turn signals.)

In short, you should not have to remove the door.

What I did was to unbolt the arm that supposedly hold the door open (mine doesn't) so that the door could open to its' maximum potential. Unless you like a door constantly banging into you, find something to prop it open with.

Next, the weatherproof grommet that carries the wiring from the door into the body. The connector is round on the body side and oval on the door side.

The body side connection consists of the rubber attaching to the lip of a round plastic piece that snaps into the body. If you carefully peel the rubber away from the plastic ring, you can see the location of the three plastic tabs around the ring's circumference that hold it in place on the body. Press in on these tabs to release the plastic ring.

Now you can pull the body side connector of the harness through the plastic tunnel that leads from inside the car to the outside. You may have to work the wires at the connector into a tight 90 degree bend to allow things to pass through.

The door side is a little easier: Carefully work the lip of the oval grommet free from the door. once you have done this, the door side of the harness with its eleventy billion connectors can be worked through the hole. (I exaggerate- it was only seven connectors for me. But those seven connectors managed to snag everything on their way out!)

Pay careful attention to the routing of the different connectors- you don't want to snag something on, say, the window or the like.

There are several snap-in zip tie retainers that secure the harness in position. Most of them will look similar to these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/25-Push-Mount-Cable-Tie-For-Imports-200mm-Length-Made-in-USA-Free-Shipping/401311397271 I stress similar, because when I wen to install them some of the mounting holes were different sizes, etc.

If you are patient, it may be possible to reach inside the door, behind the original clips, and press the tabs together to remove them. Then ya gotta release the tab securing the zip tie, try to thread it onto the new harness, etc. I can't remember exactly everything I did, but the important thing is to make sure the wiring is secure and won't foul on anything.

(Now my favorite part from almost any car manual)

Installation is the reverse procedure of removal.

Good luck!
 

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I just bought a 2009 Subaru Outback 2 weeks ago . . Both the tweeter and speaker don't work. . . .
Are you replacing the wiring harness because there is a confirmed fault in it, or solely because the speakers don't work? Are you sure the two speakers themselves are still good?

As you now have access to the individual harness connectors at the speakers, and to the large connector at the other end under the dash, the continuity of the wiring to the speaker connectors can be checked with a multimeter.

Similarly, the continuity of each speaker can be checked at their connectors; they should measure somewhere in the 4 - 8 Ohm range.

I've attached the wiring diagram for the audio system. Note that with the basic system, the front door tweeter connector (D93) and main speaker connector (D2) are wired to the same lines coming from the large connector at the other end (D83). (In the Premium system they are separately wired.)

Which raises the question: Which model Outback do you have, i.e., with which HVAC/Audio system?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the guidance, @sgoti ! If the clips end up breaking, I have some nice wire tie adhesive clips I can use in-place of those.

@plain OM I have a 2009 Subaru Outback 2.5L 4AT Base model (manual climate control, headunit with FM, AM, and CD). When I tested connectivity at the speaker, I got nothing on my multimeter yesterday. I did a test fit and threw the new harness in and wired up the speaker temporarily from the new harness to the speaker and received a proper audio signal and sound.

I'm open to repairing the current wiring harness and I guess a good step would be to figure out if the issue is inside the car (under the dash) or inside the door.

Looking at the diagram provided, it's not immediately obvious to me which wires on the connector inside the car are for the front left speaker (looks like D83/D84 are the connector, and pins 24/25 are for the front speakers).
 

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I'd repair the existing wiring. Essentially that's what you're going to be doing if you splice the connector ends anyway....except you'll be adding all the other work of removing and installing.

Although if the issue is in the door hinge area there coudl be other damaged wires. I've gone in to repair a harness before and repaired the 2 bad wires and found 1-2 others that were cracked/damaged and would have failed later as well. I've seen broken copper with the insulation still intact too. But this is really really rare! That would be nice to identify where the issue is.

Trace it to find the issue or just install new wiring from each speaker to:

A: a point right before it exits the door - this would be easy, but you might miss the issue if it's in the door jamb/pass through area which is the common movement/failure point on all vehicles.

B: Pass the wiring through body side kick panel.

If you do replace it just take your time, there's nothing hard about it, it's just time consuming snaking it from all the clips and connectors and pass throughs but eventually you'll get it.
 

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When I tested connectivity at the speaker, I got nothing on my multimeter yesterday.
Not sure what you were measuring "at the speaker". Between the two pins of the door harness connector at the speaker?

Looking at the diagram provided, it's not immediately obvious to me which wires on the connector inside the car are for the front left speaker (looks like D83/D84 are the connector, and pins 24/25 are for the front speakers).
D83 is the large, 25-pin connector for the left side door, D84 is the identical connector, but for the right side door.

Yes, the two wires for the speakers are at pins 24 and 25. The diagram at the bottom of the page is the Door Cord connector, when looked at face on. (I.e., it not the back of the connector where the wires go in.) When looking at the connector with the lock tab on top, the two would in the lower right corner.

The two wires are twisted together ("twisted pair") as indicated by the zig-zag line along their length. They're colors can be another way to ensure you have the correct two; the wire at pin 24 is red with a yellow stripe (YR) and the wire at pin 25 is white with a black stripe (WB).

The two wires go to both speaker connectors. Test for continuity (zero resistance) between pins 24 and 25 of D83 and their corresponding pins at the two speaker connectors. If there's no continuity to both speakers, then the problem is between D83 and the point where the two speakers wires branch off. As has already been suggested, one possibility is in or near the flexible coupling between the door and the car body.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
@idosubaru and @plain OM I think you are both correct about the problem likely existing in the grommet between the door and body.

I already need to do a wiring harness swap on my rear hatch (3-4 visibly snipped/damaged wires (picture below), but I ordered the harness direct from Subaru), so I was planning on taking a more nuclear approach, but I think you both make a valid argument to look through the loom on the drivers door and find where the fault is and remediate it there (if possible) rather than spending hours installing a new harness.
469816


Assuming the weather places nice today, I'll get a chance to try the above suggestions. Thanks for all the help so far!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So as an update, I took some time to check the harness under the dash a bit further. Upon inspecting pins 24 and 25 on the harness going to the door, I noticed that the pins are in the wrong spot! The speaker pins for the door are in position 23 and 24 which makes perfect sense as to why I'm not getting anything out of the speakers.

Picture of door harness:
469850


Picture of harness connector (notice pins 24 and 25 exist, but not 23 and 24):
469851


I checked the continuity under the dash of the speaker wires going to the door and I received around 4 ohms, which makes me think the problem is only with the pin locations.

I feel confident that swapping the pins on the door harness into 24 and 25 will remediate this issue. Does anyone have any guidance for popping these pins out? I don't have a pin remover tool, so any advice is welcomed! Additionally, does anyone know the polarity of pins 24 and 25 so I can make sure I put them in the right spot on the first go (if not, I can base the polarity off of the wiring harness I bought online)?

Thanks again for all the help! I think I'm getting real close to having sound once again!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah, but the colors don't match up. My speaker wires are brown with silver and white with silver. The wires on the male connectors are pin 25 - Green and pin 24 - brown with a white stripe.

Additionally, looking at the diagram @plain OM provided, it doesn't provide polarity for the speakers. I can definitely figure this part out, but it will probably take some testing to get it right (might be able to hit it with my multimeter and get polarity).
 

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I checked the continuity under the dash of the speaker wires going to the door and I received around 4 ohms, which makes me think the problem is only with the pin locations.
Certainly a possibility.

Was that measuring at the large door harness connector (D83), between pins 23 and 24?

The wires on the male connectors are pin 25 - Green and pin 24 - brown with a white stripe.
The Green and brown with a white stripe correspond to the wiring diagram at connector i76.
My speaker wires are brown with silver and white with silver.
And those go all the way to the two speaker connectors?

As, apparently, the two wires going from D83 to the speakers are different colors than in the wiring diagram, and one is on a different pin, I'm wondering if the door harness is from another car; i.e., the door harness, or the whole door, was replaced at some time. I checked the wiring diagrams for years 2005-8, and none showed brown with silver and white with silver going to the speakers. But I see from the photo that the silver appears to be rings, rather than a linear stripe. Perhaps the wiring diagram is correct, but during production, the colors were changed due to, e.g., shortage.

Odd . . .
 

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Yeah, but the colors don't match up. My speaker wires are brown with silver and white with silver. The wires on the male connectors are pin 25 - Green and pin 24 - brown with a white stripe.

Additionally, looking at the diagram @plain OM provided, it doesn't provide polarity for the speakers. I can definitely figure this part out, but it will probably take some testing to get it right (might be able to hit it with my multimeter and get polarity).
Certainly a possibility.

Was that measuring at the large door harness connector (D83), between pins 23 and 24?


The Green and brown with a white stripe correspond to the wiring diagram at connector i76.

And those go all the way to the two speaker connectors?

As, apparently, the two wires going from D83 to the speakers are different colors than in the wiring diagram, and one is on a different pin, I'm wondering if the door harness is from another car; i.e., the door harness, or the whole door, was replaced at some time. I checked the wiring diagrams for years 2005-8, and none showed brown with silver and white with silver going to the speakers. But I see from the photo that the silver appears to be rings, rather than a linear stripe. Perhaps the wiring diagram is correct, but during production, the colors were changed due to, e.g., shortage.

Odd . . .
Or... A previous owner monkeyed with the harness and/or the speakers in a botched attempt at... Something.

Consider these facts:

1) Car purchased used, left front speaker found to be inoperative.

2) Replacement left front door harness purchased, speaker connector found to be different than what is in car.

3) Old harness found to have left speaker connections on pins 23 and 24, new harness has left front speaker on pins 24 and 25.

4) Audio tested by connecting new harness to vehicle and making temporary connection between new harness and speakers. Speakers work as expected.

5) Wires at pins 23 and 24 have wrong color code according to service manual. Wires do not match other wires in terms of longitudinal striping vs silver rings, etc.

It is HIGHLY UNLIKELY this is the original door harness in its original form. Think about it- Would the original owner have allowed a non-functioning speaker to go on? Wire color codes are specified to ensure the correct wire gets routed to the correct connector/location.

And... What do we have here?

Looking at the picture of the end of your original door connector, a green wire with yellow stripe jumped out at me. Looks like pin 14. Pin 14 shouldn't have anything (my old harness sure doesn't).

Unless you have the premium audio option in your car.

Look at page W-151 in the information plain OM provided.

1) Pin 14: Green wire with yellow stripe.

2) Front left main speaker connection... Pins 23 and 24!

3) Color of wires at pins 23 and 24: White and brown (I think the silver is irrelevant, as many of my other wires have silver rings in addition to longitudinal colors).

4) In the premium version, the main speaker and tweeter have separate connections with separate color combinations. In the base model, the wires feed the tweeter first then parallel to the main speaker.

Someone tried to replace the harness with one from a different option level.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Certainly a possibility.

Was that measuring at the large door harness connector (D83), between pins 23 and 24?
Exactly :) and thanks for taking a look. Even the factory wiring speaker adapters I have don't match up for this door on this make/year.

Looking at the picture of the end of your original door connector, a green wire with yellow stripe jumped out at me. Looks like pin 14. Pin 14 shouldn't have anything (my old harness sure doesn't).

Unless you have the premium audio option in your car.

...

Someone tried to replace the harness with one from a different option level.
When I looked up the VIN on Subaru's site(s), the model is reported as base and it didn't have satellite radio either which I think was a feature of the premium audio feature. As for the harness being replaced with the wrong one, this is what I'm starting to come to the conclusion of.

I spent some time this evening popping pins 23 and 24 out with a small flat head screw driver. Afterwards, I tested the speaker polarity with a 9V battery on those removed pins (since the speaker had no indication of what was positive/negative on it physically). I put the brown wire into pin 24 and the white wire into pin 25 and voila, I have sound out of the front left speaker (mid/woofer only).

I'm guessing that since this is likely the wrong harness that the wires at the tweeter are wired separately as I'm not getting anything out of those (though I didn't immediately notice the same color wires on D83, maybe I missed it).

If I can confirm the tweeter is in working order, I'm planning to wire those into the connection going to the speakers by snipping the old tweeter wires and crimping the ends of the harness inside the door. My only concern is I'm unsure if there is any crossover that should exist or if the tweeter can be wired straight into the speaker line. Looking at the wire diagram I was provided earlier, it seems like a pretty safe bet to wire it straight into the speaker wires (in parallel).

Thanks again for all the help!
 

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My only concern is I'm unsure if there is any crossover that should exist or if the tweeter can be wired straight into the speaker line. Looking at the wire diagram I was provided earlier, it seems like a pretty safe bet to wire it straight into the speaker wires (in parallel).
If you look at your new wiring harness, you will see two wires on each terminal of the tweeter connector. One pair from the D83 body connector to the D93 tweeter connector, and one pair from the D93 tweeter connector to the D2 speaker connector.

No crossovers.
 

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@sgoti hit it on the nose; the colors do, indeed, correspond to the premium audio door harness where pins 23 and 24 are used. In looking at the wiring diagrams, I failed to look beyond the basic system wiring diagrams. (The premium wiring is on separate pages.)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Just to follow-up, all the wiring issues in the car have been remediated. I've replaced the faulty wiring harness in the rear (took all of 45 minutes to pull the old one out and put the new one in). As for the tweeter, I've wired that up and I've got a full-range of sound from the drivers door now! Thanks again for all the help and I'm glad to have been able to have remediated this problem :).

Tweeter wired into the speaker wires.
470606


The previous wiring harness and it's botched repair attempt from the previous owner
470607


A properly sealed and functional wiring harness going into the trunk
470608
 
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