[RIP IT IN AWD!]

I just got an 05 outback limited with 30k miles, has a 2.5L non turbo, U5 option, auto, CA emissions. The car was a turnover and had the roof replaced before I bought it. The motor revs up to only 4,000 rpm, when it should be 6,000-6,250? And also feels slower then a normal running outback when using it till 4k rpms. The check engine light flashes but stores no codes regarding this problem (has abs problems). Please help me fix this problem.

Thanks

 

[CSFiend]

Was the ECU replaced?

 

[RIP IT IN AWD!]

Yes, before me it was replaced and recoded-rewrote multiple times.

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

look under the dash in the driver's footwell, perhaps near the right side, and if you find 2 green connectors together - disconnect them.

there may be a white test connector too. not sure. anyone ?

 

[RIP IT IN AWD!]

When I got the car, the green connector was connected! I disconnected it. But that only stopped all the relays from cycling.

 

[subiesailor]

Any number of things could be causing this. Bad sensors causing the ECU to run the car in a safe mode to prevent engine damage. Lots of modification and who knows what stuff done to simply make it run but obviously not run correctly etc.

I hope it was free

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

try disconnecting the neg batt cable, step on the brakes, wait maybe 15 minutes and reconnect.

as said above, seems a lot like 'limp mode' and maybe resetting the ecu will at least set a code you can read. If you're lucky, the problem will go away.

I had my WRX in limp mode once from tumble generator valve failure. Reste the ECU and it was fine and has been for 6 months. sometimes, the ECU just freaks out. I've had a bad cell in a battery set 'false' codes in my wife's Outback.

 

[RIP IT IN AWD!]

I will try that, I had the battery disconnected a number of times, but never with the brake on. I also cleared codes on it many times. The engine light is still on but I have only one code now, its the vehicle speed sensor... Yet to find out which one. Sadly the car was not free After all this it should have been!

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

I will try that, I had the battery disconnected a number of times, but never with the brake on. I also cleared codes on it many times. The engine light is still on but I have only one code now, its the vehicle speed sensor... Yet to find out which one. Sadly the car was not free After all this it should have been!

OK well, the only reason to hit the brakes is to drain any possible residual charge in a cap somewhere so, sounds like you have already been down that road.

did someone replace an axle and get a non-tone ring part ?

 

[cardoc]

What were the other codes? This would help narrow down possibilities.

 

[plain OM]

The engine light is still on but I have only one code now, its the vehicle speed sensor...

ditto cardoc's request. Codes shouldn't be disregarded. Is the one current code P0500? If so, I believe that code would cause several failsafe conditions including engine rpm limiting.

 

[RIP IT IN AWD!]

I did more research, and no axle shafts were replaced, I had two right bad ABS sensors which I replaced. No more ABS codes. Just one P0500 code pops up about 3 sec after I erase it with a code reader. Before the 3 sec are up the motor reaches 6,250 rpm!! But for only 3 secs. It's 100% running in 'limp" mode. Going to be replacing the speed sensor, which should be closer to the motor. There should be 2 on the tranni.

 

[RIP IT IN AWD!]

As far as the previous codes..... When I got this car... There was like 16+ codes!!! Most had to do with bad grounds, Plugs not connected, Some bad sensors as well.... And the green plug under the glove box WAS connected while the vehicle was driven, before I found it.

 

[cardoc]

Can you scan other systems for error codes? TCM? ABS?

What electronics were removed from the car for the repairs? Or swapped due to damage?

 

[plain OM]

Can you scan other systems for error codes? TCM? ABS?

What electronics were removed from the car for the repairs? Or swapped due to damage?

cardoc might be on the right track -- it could be an ABS issue, rather than one of the vehicle speed sensors on the transmission.

My 2005 service manual links the P0500 to the ABS system but provides little more information. My 2007 manual is more detailed, explaining that the vehicle speed signal being referred to by the P0500 is provided from the ABS control module. The P0500 is specifically generated when the signal for the front right or front left wheel speed is indicating 186 mph or more; in other words, it's out of an expected "normal" range. The troubleshooting looks to the ABS diagnostics for related codes, or to a poor connection at the ECM connectors.

 

[RIP IT IN AWD!]

I swapped two speed sensors out of another tranni I had. It did NOT fix the problem, I will try to get it scanned for abs codes tomorrow. it had two bad ABS sensors... I thought it was fixed... but never had it rechecked....

 

[RIP IT IN AWD!]

The car still has the right front abs sensor code, I replaced the sensor with a new one...?

 

[cardoc]

The car still has the right front abs sensor code, I replaced the sensor with a new one...?

Is the right front bearing good? Harness from the sensor good? Ground at the ABS unit connected?

 

[RIP IT IN AWD!]

The bearing seems good has only 30k miles, feels good, drives quiet. New sensor connected good. The connection coming up to the sensor from the computer is also very good cond....

 

[plain OM]

The RF has a relatively new hub, and that's setting an ABS trouble code? Is it a genuine Subaru or an aftermarket hub (if you know)?

There are threads here where an aftermarket front hub was installed on 2005s and subsequently there were problems with the cruise control. It either wouldn't "set" or would but then cut out after some driving. As best I can recall now, the problem was traced to a weak/incorrect front wheel ABS signal. Apparently the ABS wheel speeds are used by the cruise control software, which being part of the ECM probably means the ECM itself might also be affected. The aftermarket hubs were replaced with a genuine Subaru one, and the problems disappeared.

It's not clear if the problem caused by the hub itself (i.e. not being correct in some way), or the way it was handled during installation. In regard to the latter, the hubs have a programmed magnetic ring on the back which the Hall effect ABS wheel speed sensor picks up. Use of magnetized tools in the vicinity of the hub during installation can affect the magnetic "program" in the ring, as can hitting the hub, heat, or any number of other actions that will affect a magnet in general.

Probably a long shot, but might be something to consider if all else fails.