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2006 OB 2.5, previous cars 1977 4wd Wagon, 1979 4 wd Wagon, 1983 4wd Wagon, 1992 Loyale 4wd Wagon, 2001 Outback H6 ( all previous vehicles sold)
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Discussion Starter #1
My 2006 Outback wagon has never been in an accident. I had stored it about 1/2 halfway through the winter and then I noticed that the right signal was on, but not flashing, all the time. Both front and rear. And this is with the ignition off. I thought perhaps rodent damage but there is no sign of rodent infestation. Switching the ignition on and off and the signal switch on and off had no effect. I disconnected the battery and reconnected, to see if that would re-set something; no luck. Any ideas where to start? Thanks!
 

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03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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others here have better sources/memory for the actual circuitry but, first 3 things I'd suspect; bad dual element bulb or its socket, bad wiring in the 'gaiter' from the body to the hatch (see if raising the hatch affects the light?) , or bad switch on top of the steering column if marker lights are on???
 

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Switching the ignition on and off and the signal switch on and off had no effect.
Is the car new to you or have you had it for a long time?

Does the car have the turn signals in the side view mirrors?

Just to be sure, it's all the turn signal bulbs on the right (passenger) side, and not the front marker and rear tail light?

With the ignition On, if the turn signal switch is moved to the left turn position, do the left side turn signals flash at all?

When the remote control fob is used to lock or unlock the doors, do any of the turn signal lights (front, rear, and mirrors -- if equipped) flash once, or twice when a button is pressed?

What happens when, with the ignition Off, the Hazard switch (4-way flashers) is turned on?

Does the car have a trailer hitch? If so, does it have a trailer wiring adapter in the cargo area?

Try (with ignition Off):

1) Remove fuse #1, 20 Amps, in the cabin fuse panel. (See Section 12, Specifications, in the Owners Manual for the ID and location of each fuse.) If no change then with it out . . .

2) Remove fuse #14, 15 Amps, in the engine compartment fuse box. If no change, then with the two fuses still out, remove fuse #11, 7.5 Amps, in the cabin fuse panel.

If the right side turn signal bulbs remain on when all three fuses are out, then the problem is downstream of the Hazard and Turn Signal module (aka "flasher unit"), probably in the wiring.
 

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2008 OB Limited 2.5i, Portland OR USA
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Attached are Gen 3 schematics for turn signal and hazard light system.

If you're sure it's the turn signal lights and not marker lights, as Texan suggested, and it's also illuminating both front, side mirror (if you have this option), and rear turn signals, but only right side, then I suspect either the combination switch at the stalk, or the turn signal / hazard module itself.

Does the left side work normally - both for the turn signal and the hazard light operation?
 

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2006 OB 2.5, previous cars 1977 4wd Wagon, 1979 4 wd Wagon, 1983 4wd Wagon, 1992 Loyale 4wd Wagon, 2001 Outback H6 ( all previous vehicles sold)
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Discussion Starter #5
others here have better sources/memory for the actual circuitry but, first 3 things I'd suspect; bad dual element bulb or its socket, bad wiring in the 'gaiter' from the body to the hatch (see if raising the hatch affects the light?) , or bad switch on top of the steering column if marker lights are on???
None of theses panned out but thanks for the suggestions!
 

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2006 OB 2.5, previous cars 1977 4wd Wagon, 1979 4 wd Wagon, 1983 4wd Wagon, 1992 Loyale 4wd Wagon, 2001 Outback H6 ( all previous vehicles sold)
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Discussion Starter #6
Is the car new to you or have you had it for a long time?
Owned it for 6 years.
Does the car have the turn signals in the side view mirrors?
No
Just to be sure, it's all the turn signal bulbs on the right (passenger) side, and not the front marker and rear tail light?
Yes it is the turn signals, not markers or tail light.
With the ignition On, if the turn signal switch is moved to the left turn position, do the left side turn signals flash at all?
Yes
When the remote control fob is used to lock or unlock the doors, do any of the turn signal lights (front, rear, and mirrors -- if equipped) flash once, or twice when a button is pressed?
What happens when, with the ignition Off, the Hazard switch (4-way flashers) is turned on?
Yes they all work normally
Does the car have a trailer hitch? If so, does it have a trailer wiring adapter in the cargo area?
Yes it has a hitch and the trailer wiring adapter. I unplugged it but made no difference.
Try (with ignition Off):

1) Remove fuse #1, 20 Amps, in the cabin fuse panel. (See Section 12, Specifications, in the Owners Manual for the ID and location of each fuse.) If no change then with it out . . .
BINGO! The light went out but everything else seems to work normally. Since I don't have a cargo fan (that I know of?) and I am no longer using the trailer hitch/wiring, I guess I am good. Thanks!!!
2) Remove fuse #14, 15 Amps, in the engine compartment fuse box. If no change, then with the two fuses still out, remove fuse #11, 7.5 Amps, in the cabin fuse panel.

If the right side turn signal bulbs remain on when all three fuses are out, then the problem is downstream of the Hazard and Turn Signal module (aka "flasher unit"), probably in the wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Attached are Gen 3 schematics for turn signal and hazard light system.

If you're sure it's the turn signal lights and not marker lights, as Texan suggested, and it's also illuminating both front, side mirror (if you have this option), and rear turn signals, but only right side, then I suspect either the combination switch at the stalk, or the turn signal / hazard module itself.

Does the left side work normally - both for the turn signal and the hazard light operation?
Yes the left side works fine and no, it is not the markers. I removed fuse #1 (as suggested by plain OM; see above) and the light went out. So the problem is solved.....sort of. The problem must lie wit the trailer connector. I will dig into it tomorrow.....Thanks for the help!!
 

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@greenghost45
Yes it has a hitch and the trailer wiring adapter. I unplugged it but made no difference.
. . .

BINGO! The light went out but everything else seems to work normally. Since I don't have a cargo fan (that I know of?) and I am no longer using the trailer hitch/wiring, I guess I am good. Thanks!!!
Okay!

That fuse provides an always-on power to Pin 1 of the 6-pin trailer connector R79 on the Rear Wiring Harness. It provides power only to the trailer connector, so removing it doesn't affect anything else.

Pin 2, which is right next to it, is part of the right side turn signal circuit. (I suspect you've already worked this out from the wiring diagram that was posted by @johnre earlier.) A short between the two would result in the right turn signal lights, including the right turn arrow in the instrument panel staying on all the time.

Inspect the harness trailer connector for signs of overheating, or conductive material between the pins. Also check the wires in behind for bare sections near the connector that might be shorting together. Use a multimeter to check for a short between pin 1 and 2. The wire at pin 1 is blue, and at pin 2 blue with a green stripe.

As the fuse is 20 Amps, it's possible there was a short in the trailer adapter, or at the connector, and it caused the harness wiring to overheat, melting insulation and leading to a short that is then independent of the trailer adapter being plugged in.

Hope you will let us know what you find . . .
 

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It does sound like a pin 1-2 bridge somewhere around the trailer adapter, as @plain OM suggested.

Be aware that if you do find this is the case and manage to clear it, the turn signal / hazard module might have been damaged by backfeeding the +12V into the right turn signal driver - it depends on the kind of circuit they used. But they're not that expensive to replace.
 

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Just a FYI if one ever installs a tap to turn device, when you leave the stalk in the left or right turn position it will leave the corresponding turn signal lights on even with ignition off.
 

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. . .
Be aware that if you do find this is the case and manage to clear it, the turn signal / hazard module might have been damaged by backfeeding the +12V into the right turn signal driver - it depends on the kind of circuit they used. But they're not that expensive to replace.
It's not clear from the last two posts, but I suspect that with fuse #1 out, the turn signals and hazards worked.

While working on this thread I did some bench testing of the Turn Signal and Hazard Module. According to the second schematic attached to post #56 (below) the 12 V from the fuse #1 line should not damage the module.



The high side of the turn signal bulbs is isolated from the electronic components of the module by a relay. That relay would have been open most of the time, the exception being when the turn signal lever was set for a right turn. But even that would not damage the circuit because the relay connects the lights to a separate, always-on power source (through the shunt and then on to the battery positive). In other words, the power from fuse #1 applied to the top end of the turn signal bulbs and through the relay to the shunt is, in effect connected to itself and does nothing.
 

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In other words, the power from fuse #1 applied to the top end of the turn signal bulbs and through the relay to the shunt is, in effect connected to itself and does nothing.
Correct you are; I had gone looking for that thread and never did find it. I was imagining perhaps it was an electronic driver directly on the right / left lamp circuits.

Let's hope OP can clear the harness / trailer hitch issue; those kinds of things can be difficult to chase down at times.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
@greenghost45


Okay!

That fuse provides an always-on power to Pin 1 of the 6-pin trailer connector R79 on the Rear Wiring Harness. It provides power only to the trailer connector, so removing it doesn't affect anything else.

Pin 2, which is right next to it, is part of the right side turn signal circuit. (I suspect you've already worked this out from the wiring diagram that was posted by @johnre earlier.) A short between the two would result in the right turn signal lights, including the right turn arrow in the instrument panel staying on all the time.

Inspect the harness trailer connector for signs of overheating, or conductive material between the pins. Also check the wires in behind for bare sections near the connector that might be shorting together. Use a multimeter to check for a short between pin 1 and 2. The wire at pin 1 is blue, and at pin 2 blue with a green stripe.

As the fuse is 20 Amps, it's possible there was a short in the trailer adapter, or at the connector, and it caused the harness wiring to overheat, melting insulation and leading to a short that is then independent of the trailer adapter being plugged in.

Hope you will let us know what you find . . .
The problem was the trailer lights converter. I installed it about 5 years ago and it worked fine until this happened. The install was done properly as I am bit of a fussbudget about electrical installs. I NEVER use crimp connections; solder and heat shrink only. I replaced the number #1 fuse after removing the offending part, and all is good.

The failed unit is a Curt #55370. It plugs into a factory female plug which is under the driver side interior rear fender panel. The attached picture shows the green wire (right signal) is melted and obviously shorting to the red power wire adjacent. Since the unit is a potted "black box" there is no repair; it's junk. I spoke to the Curt folks just to see if it might be under warranty or perhaps a "goodwill" replacement, but no luck. Only a one year warranty. I was a little disappointed since I have bought lots of Curt stuff in the past including several hitches and brake controllers. After this experience, I would NOT recommend Curt wiring products for your Subaru.
IMG_20200407_141754571.jpg
 

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The failed unit is a Curt #55370. It plugs into a factory female plug which is under the driver side interior rear fender panel. The attached picture shows the green wire (right signal) is melted and obviously shorting to the red power wire adjacent. Since the unit is a potted "black box" there is no repair; it's junk.
Failure of the adapter is not uncommon; it's the reason I asked if the car has one. I thought the response was that the adapter had been disconnected with no positive effect; the right side lights stayed on regardless. Must have misunderstood.

Does the car have a trailer hitch? If so, does it have a trailer wiring adapter in the cargo area?
Yes it has a hitch and the trailer wiring adapter. I unplugged it but made no difference.
In any event, good that it's been found.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Failure of the adapter is not uncommon; it's the reason I asked if the car has one. I thought the response was that the adapter had been disconnected with no positive effect; the right side lights stayed on regardless. Must have misunderstood.



In any event, good that it's been found.
I actually have a 7 way trailer wiring connection. I first unplugged the point where the 4 way plugs into the 7 way. To access the point where the factory connection hooks up to the converter is a bit more time consuming. I initially suspected the charging wire that goes from the battery to the 7 way, but ruled that out by disconnecting it and the electric brake power, from the battery. In any case, thanks for the help. Pulling the #1 fuse was a great way to diagnose the problem without taking the car apart. Thanks so much for the assistance!!:)
 
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