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2010 2.5 CVT Limited
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What have folks come up with for temporary (removeable) tie down points on the roof rack and crossbars?
I'd want temp so they can be removed when I stow the crossbars.

I tried to load a stowed and bagged pop-up shelter on the racks, but when I got up there, I could not loop the straps around anything other than the crossbar itself. Nowhere to place ratchet strap hooks. It probably would have been secure enough, but if I was hauling a larger item, I may want to have places to hook to up there.

I found generic recs on how to loop straps when securing long items like lumber and poles to the roof rack cross bars, but could not duplicate them on the OB since I can't get the strap around anything at the outboard ends of the crossbars.

Thanks.
 

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2017 Outback Premium, silver
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526 Posts
Looks like it was the 2015 model year that added the roof rack tie-down points, so if your car is earlier, the existing rack and rails kind of leaves you SOL.

If I was using the roof to carry things a lot, then at that point I'd scrap/remove the factory bars and go to an aftermarket Yakima system that'll give you a bunch of accessories. I like Yak over Thule as the Yak system installs into the factory cross bar mounting system (with the factory bars removed) and gives you a nice 30" F/R spread. The Yak cross bars sit tall though which some folks don't like.
 

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(formerly) 03 H6 OBW , (presently) 06 WRX Sportwagon & 2021 Honda CR-V
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dunno if it's helpful, but the best tip I read came from the forums...get a 10ft long 2x4, cut it in half. use the 2 5ft pieces for cross bars and 4'x8' sheets will leave 6" on either side to wrap tie-downs.
 

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2017 Outback Premium, silver
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526 Posts
dunno if it's helpful, but the best tip I read came from the forums...get a 10ft long 2x4, cut it in half. use the 2 5ft pieces for cross bars and 4'x8' sheets will leave 6" on either side to wrap tie-downs.
What do you mount the 2x4 to ?.

Possibly the cheapest solution for the OP would be to simply drill thru the factory cross bars near the outside, then and for temporary use install 4 stainless eye-bolts with wing nuts. Remove the eye-bolts when you desire to place the cross bars in their F/R stored positions, as they won't store with the eye-bolt installed.
 

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2010 2.5 CVT Limited
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2,046 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I don't use the roof racks alot.

In two years, I've carried a couple of 2x4s and a step ladder on separate occasions. But since they are attached to the car and I haul them around with me all the time, it makes sense they would be useful if I wanted to use them.

I like the 2x4 idea. I would prefer a hardwood but may be limited to what's available in 5 (or 10) foot lengths though. Affixing them to the crossbars could be either wrap straps or clamps. I'll have to lay a straight edge or board over the racks to see how that might work since there is some bow to the crossbars. Additional advantage is I could mount almost any kind of fixture I might need to the 2x4; very Red Green.:nerd:

I had thought about eyebolts. That would be a straightforward solution. I'm not so keen on drilling into the crossbars, but I think they're aluminum so they won't rust out - that's the good news. The bad news is they're hollow (I think?) and not so stout so putting a hole in them does reduce some of the strength of the beam if the hole is not filled completely (like a rivet would). It would need large fender washers to distribute the loads across as wide an area as possible. Finally, the hollow cross section will limit how tight the eyebolts can be tightened down.


I prefer to find something that clamps on. I'd looked at some of the OEM accessory clamps, and there may be something there that will work, but if someone had already devised a solution...no point reinventing the wheel.
I saw this thread started, but no replies as of this posting.

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...rmance/434113-loadstop-factory-crossbars.html

I may also try square u-bolts but I'd want to fab a filler that matches the profile of the crossbars to avoid crushing the bar with excess clamping force. Not quite sure yet how I would configure it so it gives a tie down point.

Thanks all.
 
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