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MY04 Outback 3.0
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all

I've read on some newsgroups that Subaru adds run-in oils into new engines and one shouldn't change the oil too soon or at least until the run-in oil has done its job. Is this true?
 

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03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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From what I ahve read the jury may still be out. Folks have been told by dealerships it is 'regular' oil(dino). Some folks have sent their break in oil in for an analysis and noted certain significant substances (molybdenum for example) reported at elevated levels. However, this could be simply washed off from certain components treated with moly or coated with a high moly assembly grease.
 

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Formerly 04 Outback 3.0R VDC, now 2011 Mitsubishi Pajero GLS DiD
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Hi Loopy, I was told by the dealership that the oil was changed pre-delivery and it did not need to be changed again until 6000 km. How does that compare to what you were told? I certainly think it beats having to take the car back after only 1250km or so.

Cheers,

Karl
 

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SubaruOutback.org Founder
2018 Outback Limited 2.5L - 105,000+ miles
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Here in the States, I've seen nothing to suggest that Subaru has used break-in oil in any of its vehicles from the 90's to the current models. I don't know about the pre-90's cars though. As far as I know, none of the recent model years has any Subie with break-in oil as far as Subarus in the American market.

I can't say for Australia though, I'd suggest checking around some Australian Impreza sites, etc. I say this because if Subaru Australia puts break-in oil in the Impreza or any other models I can almost guarantee that they would do it in all their other models.
 

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MY04 Outback 3.0
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Discussion Starter #5
Well, the Subaru technician told me that there wasn't any need to change the oil before 6000km. He never mentioned anything about run in oil etc etc. So maybe we will never know...:eek:

Anyway, I got to admit I changed my oil a bit too often. But I do it at the local garage where I know the guy and its quite cheap compared to going back to the dealership. Gotta buy own filter and oil though.

This website provided some interesting reading about the oils. http://www.chris-longhurst.com/carbibles/index.html?menu.html&tyre_bible.html
 

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Outback onsight...
'03outback, '98 forester S lifted m/t's, 4eat, lsd
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change your oil at 500 miles for first break in on all engines reguardless of make. If you really want to check it scientificly have a oil sample test done and look at the results. lots of meterials are contaminating the oil such as: gasket material/sealants/metal(moly)from rings).

Remember the factory wants your return business (cash)for services/warranty service(extended warranties) means big bucks for them. All dealerships practice this. It's a huge scam. Just like all these credit card companies selling fraud protection services they can't do anything for you but take your money.

Remember they sell cars to make money not go broke!nickel and dime you they will.
 

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Jondalar said:
Hi Loopy, I was told by the dealership that the oil was changed pre-delivery and it did not need to be changed again until 6000 km. How does that compare to what you were told? I certainly think it beats having to take the car back after only 1250km or so.

Cheers,

Karl

What Dealer changes oil on P.D.I.(Pre Delivery Inspection) I worked for Subaru for 8 yrs & Nissan for 11 yrs.And we never changed oil on P.D.I. I was told that you should leave the fact. oil in there for at least the first 1,000 miles for break in.
 

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MY04 Outback 3.0
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Discussion Starter #8
:eek:

I changed at 750km then at 1400km.. and then the dealership 5000Km. Oil filter was included with every change... not a good idea then?
 

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In my 3.0R, I changed at 1600kms, then 3000kms, then the service at 5000kms. Changed again at 8000kms and then went to Neo Oil 100% diester based synthetic at 12,500 service.

All the oil changes to 12500kms were Castrol 5/30 semi synthetic.

The Neo Oil is **** nice stuff. Car runs beautifully on it. Smoooooth and very peppy. Have since done the diffs with 75/90 Neo Oil full synthetic. Seems a little quicker again, but it's early days.

Rear diff bolts drain and fill were 10mm allen key types, which was easy, but the front diff drain is a 6 clover leaf design which is a real pain. Had to use a torx type key in the biggest size they make which is size 60. Anyway, its done now.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
subah6 said:
In my 3.0R, I changed at 1600kms, then 3000kms, then the service at 5000kms. Changed again at 8000kms and then went to Neo Oil 100% diester based synthetic at 12,500 service.

All the oil changes to 12500kms were Castrol 5/30 semi synthetic.

The Neo Oil is **** nice stuff. Car runs beautifully on it. Smoooooth and very peppy. Have since done the diffs with 75/90 Neo Oil full synthetic. Seems a little quicker again, but it's early days.

Rear diff bolts drain and fill were 10mm allen key types, which was easy, but the front diff drain is a 6 clover leaf design which is a real pain. Had to use a torx type key in the biggest size they make which is size 60. Anyway, its done now.
I used Castrol Magnatec (think semi-syn) and will upgrade to full synthetic Mobil1 when 7500km comes up. Don't really know anything about the Subaru oil that was put in at 5K. Where can I find Neo Oil?
 

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Loopy,

Neo Oil is expensive, but I don't mind paying for peace of mind.
It is distributed here by Anthony Stefulj at South Hurstville in Sydney. His company name was A.E.R.L.E.I. but he is in the throws of renaming his company and redoing his website, so I don't know what he's his company now.

Neo uses 100% diester base stock for their oil which is supposedly the best type motor oil. Talk to him about the locally produced oils and you may never buy the local oil products again!

Castrol Magnatec is supposed to have a small amount of diester in it and this is what is supposed to give it it's "magnetic" quality. Apparently the diester is supposed to cling to the metal better. There are many other benefits of diester base but you're best of talking to the "expert"

Anyway, his contact no. is 02 9547 3794.

US website for Neo Oils is www.neosyntheticoil.com

Let me know how you go with him. Where abouts are you situated in Australia anyway?

Lance
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hi Subah

Thanks for the info. I will contact the Australian distributor as the times comes for me to do the 10k service.

How much is expensive for the oil? I probably have to order them in Sydney as I am based on the Gold Coast
 

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A 5lt drum is about $115 from memory for the "Platinum" (top spec) grade Neo. He does have a "Gold" series which is a bit cheaper but I don't know the cost.

I have also just changed the diff oils to synthetic. It seems to have freed them up a bit and I seem so far to be getting better fuel economy. I am not getting as good fuel economy as probably other 3.0R owners due to the fact that I changed my tyres to 235/50 17" on the original rims. When I did that my fuel economy went worse to the tune of about 0.5lt/100km. I now seem to have gained that loss back and maybe more, so the diff oil seems to have made the difference. It sure feels peppier off the line.

The original diff oils seem to have alot of molybenum in it and is quite thick in comparison to the synthetic even thought they are both 75/90 weight. It might be my imagination but it seems quieter and smoother too now.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Boxer3.0R said:
A 5lt drum is about $115 from memory for the "Platinum" (top spec) grade Neo. He does have a "Gold" series which is a bit cheaper but I don't know the cost.

The original diff oils seem to have alot of molybenum in it and is quite thick in comparison to the synthetic even thought they are both 75/90 weight. It might be my imagination but it seems quieter and smoother too now.
That price is about what I had paid for 5L of Mobil 1 Tri-Syn for my old car. $10~$15 more expensive I think.

My mate has suggested that to run the car after the syn oil change as the lighter oil might help the car rev better? Probably the same thing with the dif oil?

BTW how many L of oil did you use for your oil change (including filter change)? Mine was around 7 which was way above what the manual states?
 

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BTW how many L of oil did you use for your oil change (including filter change)? Mine was around 7 which was way above what the manual states?
I bought the 5lt drum and a 1 lt. I used about 5.7lt or there abouts. I have since bought another 1lt as I changed the oil filter and tha used about 600ml.

If you need any help in obtaining your oil from my distributor let me know and Ill see if I can help in some way.

I must say that the Neo oil in both diffs and the motor have really made a difference. It definitely feels smoother and peppier. It really takes all my will to not rev the bejesus out of it and fly around at well over the posted limits. I can't get over how well this thing goes!!!!

The diff oil is expesive too. Its $32.21/1lt and you use about 2.2lt all up for both diffs. I think the rear uses about 0.8-0.9lt and the front about 1.3lt. Shame you have to buy the extra 1lt to only use 0.2lt from it although I suppose I could give you 0.3lt from what I have left and then you only need to buy 2x1lt.

The biggest problem with the diff oil change is the front diff drain plug. It uses a 6 clover leaf type allen key (Subaru part). I used a Torx type key #60 but I think a #70 would fit better.

I believe the diff oil change is really worth it. I think a bigger difference in performance than the motor oil change.


Cheers, Lance
 

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I know Honda uses a run-in oil in their vehicles...says so in the owners manual. Hated to wait until 5K miles to change but I did on my CRV.

Nice site folks, wife just bought the '03 2.5L Outback. better mileage and better AWD system than the V. I use Honda filters and Mobil 1 in the V and will probably go Subaru/Mobil 1 in the OB.
Joe
 
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