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How is there not a "patented drive-thru applicator" (aka puddle) already in operation?

...asking for a friend
I wonder if in WV there are whole rivers of anti-corrosive water,

and/or hyper corrosive water.

and @Brucey 's current green 3.6 is the sacrificial tester of each type.....maybe he will put them up on google maps so all can find....or avoid them.
 

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Since moving back to the rust belt I've started doing the annual fluid film. Over the summer the coating seems to melt/drip off when the temps rise above 90 but it stays put all winter long. I bought the gallon-sized cans of the product and spray it on with an undercoating gun or the guns with the 360-degree tip for getting inside cavities.
 

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Having lived on Beech Mtn(salted roads all winter) and now on the coast. I always spray everything with Ospho- or phosphoric acid all the time.
 

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Krown sells there stuff in 5 gallon pails. By far the best to use, creeps everywhere. A pail will do dozens of vehicles and its thin enough to be sprayed with a undercoating gun.

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
 

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I think it's time to do this.
summer is over,...time to rinse all the accumulated dust off,

stop jumping the river, and just drive in and park to let it rinse off.,

...and then put the car in a garage with a air furnace to get 100% of the river water out of the nooks and crannies/

 

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asked locally to a farmer that uses "old" pickups that look like new. one is a 1985 chevy 1 ton duelly.

2 parts use engine oil, to 1 part diesel fuel.

the diesel makes it creep,

he applies it with compressed air,

and does it outside, as inside the drips would make for quite a mess.

I guess I would recommend putting the car up on 4 ramps on some sacrificial earth, (jackstands can suck outside).
far away from a well, and blacktop.

....but hey you live in WV so anyplace is great.
Haven't read all the way through, but didn't you just describe WD-40? LOL!
This might be a cool idea!
 

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Whatever you do please DO NOT use oil. It is an environmental issue.

I don't have experience with Krown but have extensive experience with Fluid Film. Part of my background is Toyota trucks, which got me started on it. Fluid Film is lanolin based. The spray cans work well, but you can use a bucket with an undercoating gun as well. I used about 3-4 cans on the whole frame, axles, and suspension of my Tacoma. Make sure you have plenty of room and air. The over spray is like a mist and sticks to everything and takes a good scrubbing to remove. Fluid Film will slowly wear off but it won't completely wash off unless you wipe it down and scrub it good. I would do my truck every year in October and after the first year it would only take about 1-2 cans. It is a little drippy the first day or so and you can smell it burning off the exhaust. It never really drys and is kind of a waxy greasy texture and after a bit dirt/grime sticks to it. It basically made working on the underside of the truck a huge mess after that point. I will say it worked fantastic though. No rust on ANY of the areas it was applied to. I guess that's what happens when it's covered in a gooey film though.
 

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Just did my Fall service, and after reading this thread went ahead and got some of (This).
It went on nice and had very little dripping.
I think I'll be doing this from now on as part of my Fall service.
 

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Fluid Film application or comparable product

I've heard great things about Fluid Film. Just Wondering if anyone has used it before. If so how was it applied? Are there areas to avoid spraying? Brakes... Are there other products like fluid film that anyone has used?
 

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I've heard great things about Fluid Film. Just Wondering if anyone has used it before. If so how was it applied? Are there areas to avoid spraying? Brakes... Are there other products like fluid film that anyone has used?
merged with existing.
 

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I've heard great things about Fluid Film. Just Wondering if anyone has used it before. If so how was it applied? Are there areas to avoid spraying? Brakes... Are there other products like fluid film that anyone has used?
merged with existing.
Thanks @eagleeye I found this after I started the new thread. It's advisable to search for existing threads of any particular topic before starting a new one. In case y'all didn't know.
 

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I was reading some of the post and i cringed . please DO NOT use engine oil or oil/diesel to undercoat a vehicle. It may have been great in farm tractors 30 years ago, but it will destroy most rubber parts. Stuff like weatherstrip, suspension bushings and so on, will expand, melt or crack very easily.

The best product i have ever used, made by FUCHS, it's wax based product. Its used to coat cast iron engines after they are rebuilt. This stuff will stick to metal and will likely last life vehicle. Some spots may require touch up once while. It's expensive, hard to get and i only been able to get in spray cans. It's brownish color, doesn't look great on pearl white car, but does the job.
Fluid film next on my list, it needs to be applied yearly, at least first few years. Great at getting into door and frame cavities. It's also its downfall, it tends to run into floor. Best to apply and let vehicle outside in the cold, will slow dripping down. All waxed based products i have used will do well.

Krown, and few others petroleum based products don't work as well, but better than nothing. Have to be careful when applying them, they can also damage some rubber parts.

I once did experiment, cut bunch sheet metal strips, coated them with bunch different products and put them in salt bath. Only one didn't rust, in fact i left in water and forgot about it, till about month later or so, most water had evaporated and still no rust. That was Fuchs wax product. Second best, Fluid Film. There was one called Honey Goo, was ok too. The krown stuff wasn't much better than wd40. Again, any rust proof better than nothing.

Who apply it, many times more important than product used.
 

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I started using "Fluid Film" about a year ago and typically don't put a lot emphasis on products like this. Now, I'm a
advocate and love the product. My first try was coating screws which I installed under my GM truck to anchor wheel tub liners. I could not believe they specified drilling through factory sheet metal, I wanted something which worked to preserve the integrity of the factory coatings. After 18 months and two salty winters in Michigan, the areas are totally rust free. Nuff said, I now look for areas to use it in. I'm sold.
 

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Yep I am sold on Fluid Film and Amsoil Metal Protector HD. They are both outstanding. Fluid film stays wet and great to just spray on a spot that is already dirty. The Amsoil product is awesome for new or clean surfaces, and dries like candlewax and will not rinse off.
 

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Some great info to consider. I'm going to try Fluid Film. Thanks for the insight.

To add to what helped me slow down or prevent rust this is what I've done and experienced;

Years ago I had a 300ce benz that leaked oil and no rust ever developed in the undercarriage but not so lucky with the where the plastic met the metal that wrapped around the car.

Turns out parking my car in the garage with snow on it mixed with salt would melt and find these accumulation spots.

Therefore I no longer park my vehicles in the garage in winter time.
 
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