[plain OM]

I believe you're referring to the left side VVL oil pressure switch but look at the photos in this thread to confirm.

Let us know what you conclude . . .

 

[rash_powder]

That is indeed the sensor I have leaking. Is it o-ring sealed or a gasket I can replace, or just the whole sensor?

Thanx!

 

[plain OM]

Whole sensor. The VVL pressure sensor switch is similar to the engine oil pressure sensor switch. (The latter is the one that turns on the OIL warning light if the engine oil pressure disappears. It has a different connector, and possibly switches at a different pressure, but is based on the same internal operating idea.)

The VVL switch is screwed into the block, and otherwise is a factory-assembled, one-piece, component. The leak is probably not where the sensor screws into the block; rather, the oil is more likely coming out through the connector at the top or from the joint between the metal lower part and the gray plastic upper part, but you should be able to confirm this with cleaning the area and then observing. There's nothing that can be done to correct a leak from the switch other than replacing.

For a closer look at how an oil pressure switch is made, based on an engine oil pressure sensor switch, see my thread: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...22-oil-pressure-sensor-switch-how-clicks.html

There's quite a few posts about these sensors. Try a search using the words: variable, valve, oil pressure switch.

If you plan to do this yourself, do not overtighten the new one. The area on the block where the switch screws in is relatively thin, and there have been instances where it has cracked. (See: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/45237-just-messed-up-big-crap.html and the Forester thread that's linked.)

 

[rash_powder]

Thank you for the guidance and tips. As soon as I can get one it will be changed.

Matt

 

[rash_powder]

So the check engine light and flashing cruise control light finally came on tonight. I dropped the kid off and drove home to park it.

If I keep driving it, will I mess anything up? I have a mini-van I can drive too.

A little poking around looking for the sensor tonight and I found this

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_35/engine/cylinder_head/illustration_3/

That tells me I need diagram part #6 which has a catalog part # of 25240AA060. Subarupartsdepot.com has the sensor, but says that they cannot verify that it belongs on my car.

So, do I have to get this from subaru? Can I order it from Napa or O'Reilly's?

I asked at the local Subaru shop and he said $130 for the part. I think he quoted me for the installed price rather than the part price; or the servo motor by mistake.

If anyone can hook me up with a vendor that has the for sure right part I would be grateful. The van sucks gas bad; real bad.

Thank you,

Matt N

 

[plain OM]

Subarupartsdepot.com has the sensor, but says that they cannot verify that it belongs on my car.

No on-line or local Subaru parts vendor can be certain a particular part belongs to a particular car without seeing the car. Most, however, will ask for the car's VIN number, because where there might be different part numbers, they are usually distinguished by VIN number. The on-line dealer obviously doesn't want to sell a part and then have the buyer say it's the wrong one.

The CEL might be related to the switch or it could be something else. We can't say without knowing what trouble code is causing the CEL. If it is the switch, it means it isn't working and the variable valve lift mechanism won't function properly. I can't say if this can damage the engine, but depending on where the failure is on the switch, it could deteriorate. That could risk losing oil at an even more rapid rate. I'd probably want to get that fixed as soon as possible.

The on-line list price for that part seems to be in the $20 - 30 range. So the $130 might well be the installed cost. Why not go back and check that with the local Subaru dealer. It might be worthwhile having the Subaru dealer replace the switch -- then they're responsible for getting the right part and installing it properly.

 

[tdelker]

You need to get a scanner on it to read the CEL to be sure. Free at most autoparts stores.

 

[plain OM]

Or just follow the instructions here:

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...9-how-read-diagnostic-trouble-codes-dtcs.html

 

[rash_powder]

Ok, I finally got around to looking at this again. Its -7*F so why not, right?

Went to my Subaru dealer, he showed me the right part on the screen and gave me the oil pressure sender. Not sure whats up there.

Anyway, the two codes that I was given are:
P0028
C0108

0028 is a Intake valve Control Solenoid Circuit Range/Performance Bank 2 problem. Does that mean the solenoid is bad or that the sensor is bad? Is the passenger or driver's side bank 2?

0108 I am not sure. There are no C codes that I can find. If I assume it to be a P code then it is a MAP Pressure Circuit High Input. Not even sure I know what that means - I know what it says, but not what it means to my car.

Thanks for all the help in this stretched out event. I am so glad I have a second vehicle!

 

[plain OM]

Bank 2 is the driver side.

I would be surprised if the P0028 is not due to the pressure sensor, especially if it is leaking and the solenoid is not.

Look back at the link I provided in post #2 above for my reason.

Do you have a digital multi-meter? If so, then measure the resistance between the terminal and ground (engine block) at the pressure sensor that's on the car, and then measure the resistance between the terminal and the metal part of the new pressure sensor. (Let us know what you find.)

If the old one has a high resistance across the terminals, while the new one has low resistance, that can be significant. The old one could be causing the "performance" (inconsistency) type of code; in other words, when the ECM is "commanding" the solenoid to maintain a low pressure on the valve lift mechanism, the pressure sensor, being open circuit across it's contacts, is indicating a high pressure state.

"DTC C0108 FRONT ABS WHEEL SPEED SENSOR LH MALFUNCTION (ABS
WHEEL SPEED SENSOR ABNORMAL SIGNAL)"

Is the ABS warning light on? If not, it could be an old code that is in memory but not indicating a current problem. Again, this is for an "abnormal" signal, which could be due a weak or noisy signal, or a poor connection. It can happen, for example, if the wheel sensor gets clogged with ice or snow.

 

[rash_powder]

So I got a new sensor in and have driven the car about 3-4 times including the test sit and run to see if it still leaks.

Good news is the leak is gone.

Bad news is the light won't go out.

Driving home tonight, it hits me that maybe, just maybe, the teflon tape I wrapped the sensor threads in might be preventing an electrical connection with the engine. This would cause the circuit to appear to still be 'open' and trip the light.

I am quite certain that I read a post somewhere that said to use a sealer of some sort; and that teflon tap was good to go.

Is this my problem yet??

Thanks again for all the help!!

Matt