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Discussion Starter #1
Problem #2.

I got everything back in my 2002 OB. Started it up, runs fine, but doesn't move.

I just replaced the tranny with a known good one from a 2000 Legacy that got totaled (broadsided on passenger side). I used the train from my 2002 OB to solve the gear ratio issue (Legacy has 37 teeth on the crown wheel vs OB's 40 teeth).

The teeth on my crown wheel just needed a good de burring. Two teeth have a nick about 1/3 the size of a pea. I checked everything for play, and everything checked fine. I used the 2002 PNP shift switch on the tranny.

I put 32oz of Lucas 80 / 90 gear oil in the train, and 4 qts of Valvoline Mercon III in the tranny. The tranny fluid just touches the dipstick, but registers. I had trouble getting the torque converter on, but got it, and checked the tranny cooler return line to see if it is getting fluid (no fluid is a sign of a damaged torque converter), and it is getting plenty.

The numbers on the new tranny are TZ4ZCACA (with the new diff TZ4ZCABA), and my numbers are TZ4ZCDBA.

Your help will greatly be appreciated.
 

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Lawn ornament XT
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I don't have a 4eat, but I could swear that thing took a lot more than 4qts when filling from empty.

Also I don't know how close mercron is to subaru HP fluid... and subarus seem to be picky.
 

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2011 Tacoma TRD Sport Double Cab Long Box
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^Last two posters are correct.

I think the 4EAT takes about 9 quarts from bone dry. Just draining the pan is about four quarts.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Much appreciated replies to all.

I looked at other possibilities, and the shift solenoids / wiring harness has a different pt number from 2000 vs 2002.

I will add more fluid and pray. I need this car running ASAP, as my customers are counting on me, and we have possible snow coming next week up here.
 

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2000 Outback 5MT
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Per the service manual for MY 2000 Outback with 4EAT "9.8-10.1 US Qt, or 9.3-9.6L" Dexron IIE or Dexron III


Front Diff = 1.3 US Qt 85w-90
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Anybody know what is different about the tranny wiring / shift solenoids from 00 vs 02 ?????

Better still, can 2000 tranny wiring / shift solenoids be used in an 02 ?

FYI I looked at the DOM on my car, it is 03/02 (March 2002)

Update: I checked the wiring harness on the replacement tranny (00) and the harness on the old tranny (2002). All of the wires are the same color, and the connectors look the same. I don't see why the 2000 harness is different enough to not work on a 2002.

I added more fluid, and now the car at least moves. The problem is, it only moves about a foot, and seems to be binding on something.
I look forward to more input.

Hey, baby steps are better than none at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Strike the Mercon claim. I am using Dextron III.

See the above post. The car now moves (now that I put enough fluid in it) but only moves about a foot either way. Just before it stops moving, I can hear something hitting in the tranny area. When I shift from R to D, it lurches forward and binds up again.

I think something related to the torque converter is the culprit, but would appreciate confirmation.

The first time I put the tranny in, something was binding to the point where I couldn't turn the motor with a breaker bar.

The driveshaft went in kinda funny too. I couln't get it to slide all the way in on the splines, so I rocked it back and forth, and it seemed to screw in the rest of the way.
 

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Lawn ornament XT
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So you're saying it's good for short trips only?

Sorry, had to.

I'm glad the fluid top-up got you some progress anyway. I'm afraid I don't know enough about the 4EAT to give further advice. I'm worried about your solution to the gear ratio change, but again- I don't know enough.

Have you considered installing the FWD fuse to disable the rear axle? For troubleshooting's sake anyway, that might be my next shot. But again, I'm out of my depth where that gearbox is concerned.
 

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If there was something catching in the torque converter that stops the car, I would think it would prevent the engine from turning. When in Neutral, both the impeller and turbine are turning with the engine, as is the ATF pump and the input to the transmission. So everything at that end is turning.

If, when in Drive the car will move a foot or so and then stop, but the engine doesn't stall, then there's something mechanical downstream of the torque converter that's catching.

If the car will go forward about a foot and then stop, if you turn the engine off and restart, will the car then move forward again, or is one foot the limit of travel regardless? If the car is reversed, does it stop at some point as well and not go further?

The problem could be in the front differential or in the transmission. In this regard, I recall that you had to work on the crown gear. I wonder if it's more damaged than appeared. Or, does the crown gear from your old transmission match the pinion gear on the new transmission?

Perhap try this: raise the front of the car, engine off, key at On, transmission in Neutral. With someone at the other front wheel, turn both wheels in the same direction at the same rate, and see if the wheels lock-up. If they do, then the problem is in front drive train. Do the same at the rear -- raised wheels, engine off, turn both together and see if they lock up. If they do, the problem is in the rear, probably downstream of the AWD clutch.
 

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2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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Dito on what Plain OM posted.

Since the car is moving, its a good indication that the torque converter is seated in all the way.

It seems that the gears are locking because of mismatch or something is broken causing the bind.

And you are sure the replacement transmission is good?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks to all for the responses.

Yeah, she makes short trips only allright, darn short.

The original damage consisted of the pinion gear bing completely trashed. The crown wheel suffered minimal damage, just burrs on the teeth, and two teeth receiving edge ticks 1/3 the size of a pea. When I redid the diff, I used a piece of 120 grit sandpaper to deburr the gears, and inspected all of them for cracks, warping or other damge. There were tons of metal chips in the bottom of the case, so I flushed the case with PB Blaster, and let it sit overnight. I made sure the case was completely clean. I slid the case onto the tranny housing just enough so I could see the gears, and I turned them several times. They checked out ok. If I jack the front of the car and turn the wheels, one spins forward, and the other backward.

The trany should be fine, as it came from a 2000 Legacy L that had been broadsided (the passenger side door and front fender were trashed). That car passed Massachusetts inspection in July of this year (had a 7/13 green inspection sticker on the windshield).

I am beginning to suspect the issue I had with the driveshaft could be my problem. I had a heck of a time getting the shaft to go all the way in, but it went in all the way if I twisted it. It felt like it was screwing in the last 1/2 to 3/4 inch.
 

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If I jack the front of the car and turn the wheels, one spins forward, and the other backward.
That's normal. But in that case, the crown gear and differential case are not necessarily turning. That's why I suggested turning the front wheels together in the same direction. That forces the crown gear to rotate. Or, just raise one front wheel, and see if it can be turned multiple times (engine off, transmission in N). This will identify any problems in their meshing, or in the reduction gears at the back of the transmission to which the pinion shaft is permanently connected.

Also, with the engine off, the rear drive should normally be disconnected from the reduction gears (transfer clutch is disengaged). But there is always that possibility there's damage at the rear and/or the transfer clutch is mechanically binding. This is where raising the rear wheels and manually turning them might narrow it down. With the engine Off and transmission in Park, it should still be possible to raise and turn both, or even one rear wheel, without binding.
 
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