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2005 Outback Wagon / Bean Model
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Discussion Starter #1
Was doing 65 on the interstate when the engine stopped & CEL came on. tried to start it when it came to a stop & it sounded like the teeth on the starter were jumping, the engine did not turn over. Scanguage said cam sensor error.

194K on the engine and the timing belt was replaced 80K ago. At that time I had to replace both heads as the valve guides were loose in each head. was told to replace the belt before 100K. $160 worth of tow later it's sitting in my driveway. My assumption is the belt has snapped and being an interference engine, the valves at the least are bent and likely there is head damage due to the problem happening at interstate speed and maybe piston damage. I have several dents on the trunk and sides and there is a 4" rust bloom on the rear quarter panel close to the seam behind the L passenger door.

Tranny is good and the brakes/calipers are fairly new but was told by the shop that did the work that there was a lot of rust on the floor after the job. The tank had rusted and 2 months ago had replaced the original with a used one from the junk yard. AC has been DOA for the last 3 years. Goodyear Tripletreads with maybe 10,000 on them.

So the question is what to do with it; it's an older car with 194K on the odometer, a bit of piston slap when starting the car which goes away after the engine is warmed. Not great MPG, about 24 on the highway if I baby it, always started fine and everything worked on it.

I don't know how much a used engine transplant should cost and then it would still be a used engine. I'm concerned the pistons may be damaged because of the RPM and I was going up a hill when it happened. I'd hate to pay someone to remove the heads to see what the damage is only to find it's more than head replacement and then I'd have to pay that labor. I had to pay $1,500 for the labor & $500 for the rebuilt heads back in 05 and would expect more today. No idea what a drop in engine would be or the labor for that. The Blue book value with it in poor condition is 2,600. $3,200. in good condition but with the existing dents I can't consider it good at any rate. My guess is the repair would equal the selling value of the car.

So the question is what should I do to make the best of this? I have a fair amount of tools to work on bikes but no way to remove the engine to get to the heads or any place to do that so I'd have to have someone else do it.

Thoughts? & thanks.
 

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My assumption is the belt has snapped and being an interference engine, . . . .
That's a possibility, but perhaps remove the partial timing belt plastic cover on the left side and verify if the belt appears to be broken or loose.

When the work was done on the belt and heads, was the TB tensioner and idler changed? Water pump?
 

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2005 Outback Wagon / Bean Model
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Discussion Starter #3
That's a possibility, but perhaps remove the partial timing belt plastic cover on the left side and verify if the belt appears to be broken or loose.

When the work was done on the belt and heads, was the TB tensioner and idler changed? Water pump?
Thanks for the reply. I can remove that cover, hopefully it's not hard to remove or needs special tools to do so. The belt was replaced when I bought the car back in 05 or 06. I don't remember if the tensioner was replaced and I do believe the water pump was replaced. I remember something about the water pump was addressed.

There were no engine sounds or rattles before or when the engine died on the interstate, there were no sounds of screeching or metal being forced, just an immediately dead engine and one that will not turn when the starter is engaged.

- Addition: The code was P0340 and when I just went out to try and start it just to see if cooling off made a difference, it did not start, the starter didn't grind as before, just spun but I could not put it in neutral, I had to turn the key several times and then the shift came free. It wouldn't start in neutral but putting it back in park, I had the same problem getting the shift to go to neutral but fudging with the key & trying to move the shift lever worked. Also, it did not attempt to turn the starter most of the time I tried, I could hear the fuel pump engage and then stop but that was the only sound when I turned the key. After moving the shift and putting it back to park it would spin the starter but then it stopped doing that again. It's definitely DOA.
 

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my subi did a similar thing, died out of nowhere. i had turned off the freeway and was cruising at about 30, and it died, CEL all that fun, didnt want to start.

turned out, (luckily under warranty, this was 48 hrs after buying the **** car) that the idle tensioner bolt had snapped, timing belt fell off or broke, and the claim was that only the valves were bent.

winter came along and the valve gaps are clearly screwed, as it slaps loud when cold but warms up nice. darn cars!
 
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