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Discussion Starter #1
Well... I did it. I trade my ‘17 Outback manual transmission for a ‘18 (with CVT of course).

Almost same monthly payment. 40$ more.

Why? First, I didn’t like the manual tranny even if I’m a fan of manual driving. The cvt is sooooo more efficient. I could not believe it. Second, I felt I had a lemon. Engine change at 18k km (around 11000 miles), various problems, etc.

I like the new led DRL, CarPlay, auto door lock, better fuel economy, rear camera that stays on and better sound isolation.

Thanks to the dealership who really gave me a excellent service !




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That's great. There are benefits to upgrading to a newer vehicle.
My dad used to buy a new vehicle every year. The car may only have 2,000 miles on it, and he would trade it in on the next year. He did that from 1958 to 1973. Of course vehicles cost a lot less than they do now.
For me, I did that once and I figure it cost me over $10,000.00 dollars.
Besides making the payments for a full year on the vehicle, which was about 4 thousand dollars, then they didn't give me as much as I owed on the trade in, so I lost about 6 thousand on that.....and of course my 5 year loan started all over again.
I did get a much nicer vehicle and really loved it. I also got a lower interest rate on the loan. So there were some up's to the deal.
My wife's 17 Subaru 2.5i Limited has everything on it available for that trim and we both love it.
The only thing I need to keep working on is the active cruise control, it does not speed up fast enough when cars pull away from me in traffic and then it does not slow down early enough for my liking, it waits until I am squirming in the seat before it hits the brakes.
It sure keeps your heart pumping that's for sure!
I am considering buying a legacy fully loaded for myself.
Good luck and congratulations on your Outback
 

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2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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My dad used to buy a new vehicle every year. The car may only have 2,000 miles on it, and he would trade it in on the next year. He did that from 1958 to 1973. Of course vehicles cost a lot less than they do now.
A new 1970 Volvo Station Wagon was less than $4000. I remember, we had one. When it finally wore out, new Volvos were $28K 15 years later.
 

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My cars typically have around 200,000 miles when I trade them in. As a result of waiting so long, the technical updates between my new cars are dramatic and I spend a several weeks getting use to them.


I traded in my 02 Suburban in on this 2018 OB Limited a month ago and I'm still trying to learn all the stuff it can do. Who would have thought the tailgate would be so complicated, but I have to turn the car off and open the door to open and close it using the dash button. I'm sure I'm not holding my mouth open right, but why is it so hard to push a button and open a tailgate?


Beary
 

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2011 Outback Limited. White, Sunroof, 2.5, CVT. Bought 2/15/11. Love it! Broke 109K, 2/20.
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CarlDufault enjoy your new ride. Sound like you got a good deal and will be happy with your new vehicle. I'm at the other end of that. My '11 has around 92K miles and is paid for. It's nice not having a payment book and knowing the car satisfies me and my wife whenever we use it. Long trips and short.
 
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'18 Outback Touring 3.6R, '11 Legacy 3.6R Limited. '11 WRX not stock
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Congrats on the upgrade glad you stayed in the Subaru family. The '18's are :dance2:
 

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2011 Outback Limited 2.5i/2018 Crosstrek limited
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...and for another $40.00 a month they’ll put you into a new 2019 when it arrives too...:laugh:
 

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Never trade in; sell private party. I sold my 2015 Crosstrek private party before upgrading to my 2017 Outback. It cost me less than $150/month to own the Crosstrek...considering depreciation. That's cheaper than any lease or car payment you can get. This is a tremendous benefit of owning a Subaru and upgrading every couple years.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Never trade in; sell private party. I sold my 2015 Crosstrek private party before upgrading to my 2017 Outback.


In my case, selling a manual transmission car in a market of CVt was not an easy option. Specially when the engine has been change at only 18000 km and it appears on the maintenance schedule of the car.


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My cars typically have around 200,000 miles when I trade them in. As a result of waiting so long, the technical updates between my new cars are dramatic and I spend a several weeks getting use to them.


I traded in my 02 Suburban in on this 2018 OB Limited a month ago and I'm still trying to learn all the stuff it can do. Who would have thought the tailgate would be so complicated, but I have to turn the car off and open the door to open and close it using the dash button. I'm sure I'm not holding my mouth open right, but why is it so hard to push a button and open a tailgate?
We share your Rip van Winkle sentiment on the new cars, hence my tagline.

And yes the power liftgate on the Subie is bafflingly unintuitive not only on the dash button but also the keyfob. In contrast, the one on my new Grand Cherokee simply works, and works every time, exactly like you would expect it to.

But - and here's the good news - the answer to making it work with the dash button is to hit the door unlock button first.
 

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My cars typically have around 200,000 miles when I trade them in. As a result of waiting so long, the technical updates between my new cars are dramatic and I spend a several weeks getting use to them.


I traded in my 02 Suburban in on this 2018 OB Limited a month ago and I'm still trying to learn all the stuff it can do. Who would have thought the tailgate would be so complicated, but I have to turn the car off and open the door to open and close it using the dash button. I'm sure I'm not holding my mouth open right, but why is it so hard to push a button and open a tailgate?


Beary



I thought I was the only one!!!! Regarding having to open the driver door just to get the dash button to open the rear gate. I thought for sure it was a problem with the car because the concept is so dumb. I took it to the dealer complaining there was something wrong with my rear gate dash button and they had no clue what I was talking about. Seeing that you have the same “problem” as me makes it appear to be a normal feature of the car of which I am still trying to get used to... that button drove me crazy.
 

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Congrats - I have the '17 Limited - and it's a nice vehicle, not perfect but not bad. Just to be clear, you were making payments on your '17 of $X per month. You made roughly 12 payments, let's say it was $200/month x 12 = $2400, then you traded it in and your payments are now basically the same (4 cents more or so), so you basically leased the 17' for $2400 for the year, and now are starting over again on new payments for 48-60 months - so you got to drive a new Outback for a year for about $2400, and now you start over again making payments for the same term.


I don't see loosing $2400 (if your payments were $200/month) for a year as a bad deal as you got to drive a new car for that time. Did you put any money down on the '17? If so, you perhaps lost this money too? Did the dealer take other price off the trade in - as I would agree with the above, trading in a car is never to your advantage - selling to a 3rd party is a better way to go financially.


Good luck with the new '18 - I think your gonna like it. Don't look back - you got a nice car.
 

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Congrats - I have the '17 Limited - and it's a nice vehicle, not perfect but not bad. Just to be clear, you were making payments on your '17 of $X per month. You made roughly 12 payments, let's say it was $200/month x 12 = $2400, then you traded it in and your payments are now basically the same (4 cents more or so), so you basically leased the 17' for $2400 for the year, and now are starting over again on new payments for 48-60 months - so you got to drive a new Outback for a year for about $2400, and now you start over again making payments for the same term.


I don't see loosing $2400 (if your payments were $200/month) for a year as a bad deal as you got to drive a new car for that time. Did you put any money down on the '17? If so, you perhaps lost this money too? Did the dealer take other price off the trade in - as I would agree with the above, trading in a car is never to your advantage - selling to a 3rd party is a better way to go financially.


Good luck with the new '18 - I think your gonna like it. Don't look back - you got a nice car.
What if payments were $300? $400? $500? At what point is it not worth it? These questions will keep philosophers busy for a long time :grin2:
 

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What if payments were $300? $400? $500? At what point is it not worth it? These questions will keep philosophers busy for a long time :grin2:
This is where my situation gets a bit unique. I am a sales rep responsible for covering WA State. I drive samples, visit customers, shuttle customers, wine and dine, etc. I have a few mountain passes to cross each winter so AWD is a necessity. We are a small agency but the rule is each outside person gets a side check for a car payment. The expectation is we use it on whatever we like but the car must be presentable, reliable, practical etc. Could I choose to drive a Lambo? I guess. But the monthly cost over my allowance would come out of pocket and the interior space would not be practical. Could I drive a 2001 CRV with 350k and pocket the difference? I think my boss (Dad, family business) would not be thrilled.

Therefore, the Outback Limited is the perfect option for me. Easy to maintain, great fuel economy, reliable in any weather, limited package is a very nice ride when I need drive a work-related passenger. I care a bit more about fuel economy than the others so most other salesmen drive 6 cylinders. I had a Crosstrek my last go around and this time I wanted just a skoshe more space. I hated having to move the front seats to lower the rears all the way. It's the little things right???

After having done the same thing over a few times, I generally drive a brand new car for 3 years/100k and trade it in.
 

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Congrats - I have the '17 Limited - and it's a nice vehicle, not perfect but not bad. Just to be clear, you were making payments on your '17 of $X per month. You made roughly 12 payments, let's say it was $200/month x 12 = $2400, then you traded it in and your payments are now basically the same (4 cents more or so), so you basically leased the 17' for $2400 for the year, and now are starting over again on new payments for 48-60 months - so you got to drive a new Outback for a year for about $2400, and now you start over again making payments for the same term.


I don't see loosing $2400 (if your payments were $200/month) for a year as a bad deal as you got to drive a new car for that time. Did you put any money down on the '17? If so, you perhaps lost this money too? Did the dealer take other price off the trade in - as I would agree with the above, trading in a car is never to your advantage - selling to a 3rd party is a better way to go financially.


Good luck with the new '18 - I think your gonna like it. Don't look back - you got a nice car.
So much is wrong with this, you're buying (literally) into the dealers BS. Its never a good idea to trade in a one year old car financially. He also said his payments went up $40 a month, not 4 cents. $40 a month is $2400 more then he was paying for the previous loan and add the year of payments he already made. Best case is he lost about $5000-6000 and worst case if he did not put a down payment on the car would be out $9000 assuming $550 a month payments on the 17 plus the $40 a month for 12 months.

Never work deals based on monthly payments, that's a scam and too many people get ripped off without knowing it. Work all deals based on total price paid.
 

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So much is wrong with this, you're buying (literally) into the dealers BS. Its never a good idea to trade in a one year old car financially. He also said his payments went up $40 a month, not 4 cents. $40 a month is $2400 more then he was paying for the previous loan and add the year of payments he already made. Best case is he lost about $5000-6000 and worst case if he did not put a down payment on the car would be out $9000 assuming $550 a month payments on the 17 plus the $40 a month for 12 months.

Never work deals based on monthly payments, that's a scam and too many people get ripped off without knowing it. Work all deals based on total price paid.
Bad idea, sure, but keeping it for 1-2 more years is not better, it is worse... Biggest deprecation is in the first year, but next years are about half of previous at best. So if he sold it 3 yrs down the road he'd be out for almost 2x first year.

You can do this only for cars that hold their value well, you can forget about this for luxury cars or anything by FCA.
 

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Bad idea, sure, but keeping it for 1-2 more years is not better, it is worse... Biggest deprecation is in the first year, but next years are about half of previous at best. So if he sold it 3 yrs down the road he'd be out for almost 2x first year.
Ummmm.....it would only be worse to keep it longer if they weren't buying another car or was buying something extremely cheap. The math looks like this for an Outback:

Year 1: $6k
Year 2: $3k
Year 3: $3k

Total for three years: $12k

If you bought a new car every year, the math is more simple...you'd lose $6k per year for a total of $18k over three years. It really doesn't "work out" for any vehicles but it may be better for some.
 

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All I am saying is that if he intends to trade it in, there's no benefit in trading it in year 3 or 4 vs year 2.
 
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