[mpwlm]

Hi Guys, joined the group recently and have got a lot of good information regarding my vehicle. I have previously owned Impreza turbo wagon, Catalunya and a WRX. Also a classic Lotus Elan +2 S130 and an M100, all great cars.

I live in Spain for half the year and Scotland for the other half. I have recently purchased a LHD runabout for use only in Spain. Using a VIN decoder i have found out the the car started it's life in Baltimore, MD and was then exported to the UK. In 2004 it was re-exported to Malaga.

It is in pretty good condition for the year, have just had the front and back bumper plus the roof repaired/resprayed and it is looking pretty good. Just needs a set of classic alloys to set it off rather than the steel wheels.

I think i have a split CV boot, front inner i think, and have been trying to source spares in UK and Spain.

Looking at the condition of the main hoses i aim to replace, top and bottom radiator hoses, heater inlet and outlets plus CV boots inner and outer on the front on both sides. Plus oil and air filters.

Rock Auto seem to have everything i need, looking at the OEM number equivalents, BUT every item in my cart has a note in red saying "designed for US, CA market vehicles"

Can anyone tell me the difference with these parts and others, the car originated in Baltimore which is not in CA.

Thanks for any help/suggestions you can give me.

Having very little luck with sourcing OEM parts in Spain or the UK, most seem to be aftermarkets.

rgds Mick

 

[eagleeye]

the US and the Canadian market are almost the same.
(very few things separate the offerings,... speedo head outer edge in KM vs. MPH, ...daytime running lights on 1990s cars in canada, and not the US,...)

so I would think that notation is saying "designed for the US AND Canadian market" and Rockauto is showing it as it sees your IP is in Europe.

and is this a 1999 US spec or a 1998 US spec, *in the thread title it says one thing , and under your name at the left it says another,...and I am aware of the US / Canada model year vs. the world model year.

edit: what is the month and year of manufacture on the sticker inside the door or on the plate on the front shock tower in front of the driver.?

 

[eagleeye]

here is a spec page from a US dealer sales guy,...it is about 97-98 impreza including the outback sport.

for some reason as of today the 1999 -01 page is down.

Subaru Impreza Archives: 1997-1998

 

[idosubaru]

I'm expecting CA to mean California, not Canada.

There's no significant difference for california vehicles. And by now - aftermarket parts will simply meet both requirements. So "US, CA" simply means it will work for both.

But in reality it doesn't even signify anything meaningful since the CA exceptions were mostly only emissions related and timing belt related.

Around the time this car was made there was the possibility of a california spec'd timing belt and a non-california belt. But regardless of the nuances to that point - it doesn't matter now. They're the same belt for maintenance discussions.

Keep in my you should mention what car you're talking about. I see you have a car listed but that's often inaccurate (not updated, you're asking about a different vehicle, etc) or may not show on mobile sites.

That's an interference engine so most importantly you want high quality timing belt and timing components.
The belt, tensioner, and three pulleys should all be replaced. The lower sprocket is the most common failure item and the belt and tensioner are probably tied for second. Just replacing the belt is almost silly. Most breakages are caused by a failed pulley.

You can also have a machine shop just install new bearings in the pulleys as that's their only failure mode. Very easy.

 

[v2rocket]

I'm expecting CA to mean California, not Canada.

exactly...we all know Canada isn't a real place.

But in reality it doesn't even signify anything meaningful since the CA exceptions were mostly only emissions related and timing belt related.

right, usually it is something as simple as a heated oxygen sensor that differentiates CA vs US cars.

You can also have a machine shop just install new bearings in the pulleys as that's their only failure mode. Very easy.

labor for the shop to do that would probably be as much as just buying a new pulley.

 

[mpwlm]

Thanks to eagleeye, idosubaru and v2rocket for your thoughts and advice.

The "1998" - now amended - was the first registration in Baltimore, since i signed up the VIN decodes to a MY1999.

This information is also confirmed via CARFAX Europe, with a free CARFAX US included in the EUR 9.99 fee. No mention of month/year on either plate on the car.

The previous owner replaced the timing belt two years ago, doubtful re pulleys.

using opposedforces.com I have compiled a list of OEM part numbers for hoses, CV boots, oil and air filters and took it to a Subaru dealer here in Spain. He is going to call me with availability and prices. Failing that it looks like Rockauto or someone similar and getting the parts shipped to the UK/Spain.

I have had some success with getting replacement keys, the car only came with one plain steel key which unlocks the drivers door, rear tailgate and fits the ignition.

I have sourced two blanks from the UK (£6 each) and two transponders from a Barcelona company (4D60's) (EUR 5 each), just need to visit the local garage for cutting and pairing to the car to get the central locking working again.

Lots to do - thanks again.

 

[eagleeye]

no need to go to a garage to pair the fobs,...these are simple things vs. say 2005 and newer wildly expensive fobs.

at least try it DIY with the owners manual and or this:

Subaru Keyless Entry, Security Alarm, Immobilizer Key, Remote Start Systems. Most years and models alarm

____

keys I have had computer cut at dealers, hardware stores, or locksmiths, and the keys are cheap for this. (like $3 hardware store -$12 subaru dealer US)

..however if ordering you can't try it in all the doors/ hatch / ignition and then go back inside with it for the tech to hone / polish it a bit.

and I would think a 18 year old car would need some honing after the cut at the key machine,...due to the locks not being as sharp as the subaru dealer computer thinks they are, vs. just getting your existing key copied the old fashioned way with a machine or a nipper. ...a simple hardwares store might need to round up the right uncut blank. (which are also easily found on the internet).

... in places like Seattle, Washington people take any old 1998 era subaru key and can try it in any old 1998 subaru and maybe drive it down the street with a little bit of giggling as the locks are so worn.... (only in Seattle, or Portland Oregon would anyone want to steal a regular 20 year old subaru though and consider it a joy ride or a investment,

 

[mpwlm]

Hi eagleeye, according to the online manual I found on manualslib ..... (there wasn't one with the car), in fact there was nothing with the car, history or servicing wise so guess i was lucky to even get a key (lol)......

Remote locking was an option and a spare remote can be programmed by pressing the "program" button beneath the steering column - mine doesn't have one. The other method of open/close drivers door, switch ignition on/off 10 times without starting the car, does not give me the "program mode" beep.

I think other electronics/switch, etc would need to be fitted. At least my local garage are very reasonable at small jobs and can cut, hone/polish and pair the transponder in the new door keys x 2 ..... I hope.

 

[eagleeye]

Hi eagleeye, according to the online manual I found on manualslib ..... (there wasn't one with the car), in fact there was nothing with the car, history or servicing wise so guess i was lucky to even get a key (lol)......

Remote locking was an option and a spare remote can be programmed by pressing the "program" button beneath the steering column - mine doesn't have one. The other method of open/close drivers door, switch ignition on/off 10 times without starting the car, does not give me the "program mode" beep.

I think other electronics/switch, etc would need to be fitted. At least my local garage are very reasonable at small jobs and can cut, hone/polish and pair the transponder in the new door keys x 2 ..... I hope.

if you actually live where there are car thieves that will steal anything. that is a easy mark,...and 20 year old cars are, you might consider getting a brand new alarm system, and at that time have the alarm guys strip off any factory keyless entry that the car had.

 

[mpwlm]

Very good point and good advice. My initial concern is that i only have the one key and without it i am stuffed.

If as a consequence the newly cut keys and new transponders give me the "program mode" beep then i can program a remote central locking fob.

The car is backed up against a concrete wall by my Disco 3 which does have a good alarm/immobiliser system, if the hyenas break into that I don't really think they would bother with the Scooby.

 

[eagleeye]

when you typed disco, for a second I thought you meant a dance club,

and then I realized you were typing of a land rover discovery 3.

 

[mpwlm]

Yeah, sorry LR Discovery 3 - 10 years old but in excellent condition, full LRSH, probably the best car i have owned - A gentlemans club on wheels and it's got a fridge!