Is there a writeup to replace the spark plugs on 5th generation? All I can find is 4th gen and I dont know if there are any differences. Also, what is model of NGK spark plugs to use? Search has not really helped me as all I can find it for older generations.
Spark plug DIY?
1 - 20 of 204 Posts
Here you go, at least for the 6. Don't have for the 4.
Should be about the same process. might just be different things that are in the way...
Go to the parts store and tell them you need plugs, they'll get you the right ones (if they are competent).
A spark plug socket (the kind that actually holds onto the plug) is a life saver on the horizontal plugs. I've used a magnet on the end of a stick in a pinch, among many other things, and the spark plug socket is the best.
Go to the parts store and tell them you need plugs, they'll get you the right ones (if they are competent).
A spark plug socket (the kind that actually holds onto the plug) is a life saver on the horizontal plugs. I've used a magnet on the end of a stick in a pinch, among many other things, and the spark plug socket is the best.
Per the 2015 Legacy/Outback Factory Service Manual and 2015/2016 Owners Manual:
- NGK SILZKAR7B11 (2.5 liter FB25 engine)
- NGK SILFR6C11 (3.6 liter EZ36 engine)
Crazy, man! A $15 spark plug. ☹
Depends on how long they last and provide good service. Might actually be a deal.
(formerly) 03 H6 OBW , (presently) 06 WRX Sportwagon & 2021 Honda CR-V
Joined
·
19,216 Posts
more like $12 and they last 50-60 thousand miles. maybe more
many people have tried other brands - only to have to switch them out for NGK
many people have tried other brands - only to have to switch them out for NGK
A few suggestions.
First, I've found the best price on the spark plugs is from Rock Auto. The NGK is under $10 there, and shipping for my zip code is only $3. Don't let the part number difference confuse you. The NGK SILZKAR7B11 is the NGK 93482. One is a catalog # and the other is a part #. (Not hash tag, but number.)
Next, ss others have said, don't go cheap on the spark plugs. Stay with the factory OEM plug. You will regret using cheaper plugs. And you will really regret it when you have to change them twice.
Last, buy one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013P4C064/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I didn't have one for when I did the spark plugs on my 60k service, but I have one now, and bought it specifically with the Subaru spark plug change in mind. It will pay off big time, particularly for the #4 (left rear, from the driver's seat) cylinder.
First, I've found the best price on the spark plugs is from Rock Auto. The NGK is under $10 there, and shipping for my zip code is only $3. Don't let the part number difference confuse you. The NGK SILZKAR7B11 is the NGK 93482. One is a catalog # and the other is a part #. (Not hash tag, but number.)
Next, ss others have said, don't go cheap on the spark plugs. Stay with the factory OEM plug. You will regret using cheaper plugs. And you will really regret it when you have to change them twice.
Last, buy one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013P4C064/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I didn't have one for when I did the spark plugs on my 60k service, but I have one now, and bought it specifically with the Subaru spark plug change in mind. It will pay off big time, particularly for the #4 (left rear, from the driver's seat) cylinder.
jws360, thanks for the file but now I have a question. It shows what looks like three different length extension bars and a universal joint. Is the universal joint absolutely necessary? and do you know the lengths of the extension bars? I should be attempting this tomorrow but I only have a couple short 3" extensions.
Used NGK Iridiums in my FX35 (OE), changed at 100K miles (manual spec). Still in there when I sold car at 211K miles after 12 years. No issues with that! I really wouldn't be in a hurry to change them out. This is not 1948 (however, today's $15 is only a buck and a half in 1948 dollars...).
4-cyl plug R&R attached.
2016 Subaru Outback 2.5L CVT Premium with all the safety features added including Eyesight
Joined
·
3 Posts
One other forum indicated wobble socket extensions would work best and they sure worked for me in my 2016 Subaru 2.5L Outback. A universal joint does not afford enough control when attempting to attach to the string of items (spark plug socket; additional small extension) that are already in the hole. A 3" wobble extension with the correct 14mm spark plug socket did the job for me.
TLDR: I highly suggest sending your car to the professionals for spark plug replacements on the 2017 year!
Longer version:
I attempted to replace the spark plugs on my 2017 2.5i at 60k miles. This job took me 8 hours over 2 days (I had to order some items on Amazon to complete the job). Note that I did a lot of homework and read all the forum posts on this job so I thought I knew what I was getting myself into. It was much worse than I expected. Here were my struggles and some tips if you do not not heed my above warning.
1) The connectors that attach to the coils are a HUGE pain on the 2017s. Based on other write-ups on this forum, they must have introduced a new connector that is VERY difficult to disconnect in my year. See my post here for a picture of what I'm talking about. It took me no less than 15 minutes of struggling for each connector (4 total). That is an hour of pure frustration.
2) You must remove the entire battery box to access the driver's side spark plugs. Luckily I had a 10mm deep socket to remove the battery so getting the battery out was not a big deal. But, to remove the box below the battery, there are two 14mm bolts that must be removed that are oriented horizontal with no more than 2 inches of clearance. They also happen to be very deep in the hood so the only tool that seems to work for this situation is a long (or extra long) 14mm ratcheting wrench. I did not own one of these so this was an unexpected $25 Amazon purchase. Here is the one I bought.
3) The drive's side spark plug in the back is HORRIBLE to get out. There is no room to work with. Getting the clip out (see #1 above) is even harder than the other 3 because of this. Then, you will struggle to get enough clearance with any socket wrench to remove and replace the spark plug. I highly recommend a 2 inch wobble extension because a 3 inch extension is too big. Here is the one I bought... $13 more that was not expected. Even with this tool, it was really a struggle to replace this spark plug.
Good luck for anyone that tries this DIY! Happy to answer any questions if people still plan on doing it themselves.
Longer version:
I attempted to replace the spark plugs on my 2017 2.5i at 60k miles. This job took me 8 hours over 2 days (I had to order some items on Amazon to complete the job). Note that I did a lot of homework and read all the forum posts on this job so I thought I knew what I was getting myself into. It was much worse than I expected. Here were my struggles and some tips if you do not not heed my above warning.
1) The connectors that attach to the coils are a HUGE pain on the 2017s. Based on other write-ups on this forum, they must have introduced a new connector that is VERY difficult to disconnect in my year. See my post here for a picture of what I'm talking about. It took me no less than 15 minutes of struggling for each connector (4 total). That is an hour of pure frustration.
2) You must remove the entire battery box to access the driver's side spark plugs. Luckily I had a 10mm deep socket to remove the battery so getting the battery out was not a big deal. But, to remove the box below the battery, there are two 14mm bolts that must be removed that are oriented horizontal with no more than 2 inches of clearance. They also happen to be very deep in the hood so the only tool that seems to work for this situation is a long (or extra long) 14mm ratcheting wrench. I did not own one of these so this was an unexpected $25 Amazon purchase. Here is the one I bought.
3) The drive's side spark plug in the back is HORRIBLE to get out. There is no room to work with. Getting the clip out (see #1 above) is even harder than the other 3 because of this. Then, you will struggle to get enough clearance with any socket wrench to remove and replace the spark plug. I highly recommend a 2 inch wobble extension because a 3 inch extension is too big. Here is the one I bought... $13 more that was not expected. Even with this tool, it was really a struggle to replace this spark plug.
Good luck for anyone that tries this DIY! Happy to answer any questions if people still plan on doing it themselves.
Sounds like fun! I'm looking forward to the challenge, but I'm a lot of miles away from having to change mine. I have the dainty hands of a 12 year old girl and a hidden extra elbow in both arms. Sounds right up my alley! I'm kinda known for making tight space jobs look easy. Just don't ask me to perform feats of strength... I fail there.
1 - 20 of 204 Posts
