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2013 Outback 2.5 manual
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Discussion Starter #1
Yesterday I went over to Napa and bought a new battery for my 2013 Outback 4cyl manual. Cranked it yesterday to make sure all was well but didn't do much more. Drove it today to work and it stalled on me many times. As an important note it has never done this before until today. I've had no issues with stalling before. The car had a lot of trouble idling, the rpms were down around 500. It would stall when I would shift into neutral or depress the clutch at lower speeds as I was about to shift gears. I have to think this problem is electrical or the battery because of this happening abruptly. any thoughts on what to do. My plan is to clean the connectors and check the wiring to make sure everything is good. Also I need to confirm Napa sold me the appropriate battery.
 

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'15 Outback 2.5i Premium
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After being de-powered, the ECU "forgets" the settings for your engine and reverts to a default set. Drive it around some and it should re-learn the proper settings.
 

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03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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hmmm....try disconnecting the battery, (hit the brake pedal or touch the removed neg terminal to the pos term to discharge any residual electricity in caps somewhere)

Then, reconnect and start the car WITHOUT touching the gas pedal. The car may need that condition to get a true lower range for the throttle position.


what prompted the battery swap?
 

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2013 Outback 2.5 manual
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Discussion Starter #4
How far would I need to drive it to "relearn" the proper settings? Yesterday after I installed the battery I cranked it and let it run for about 5-10 mins in my driveway but didn't actually drive anywhere. This morning I drove it about 35 miles through stop and go traffic to work.

The last couple days (maybe even weeks) the car was slow to turn over when cranking. It got really bad the last couple days where it almost wouldn't turn over. Yesterday afternoon I went to start it and it wouldn't turn over at all. Napa tested the battery and said it was reading 10 volts / needed to be replaced. I swapped batteries and it cranked right up and I thought everything was fine (until I drove it this am).
 

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2013 Outback 2.5 manual
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Discussion Starter #5
ok I have found some other threads on this topic and found a procedure to reset/relearn the idle that others have stated worked for them. Going to try it once I get home today.
 

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2013 Outback 2.5i Convenience
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How far would I need to drive it to "relearn" the proper settings?

Mine took 3 days until it figured things out and drove normally again (never stalled on me though, was just hesitant). Seems the car needs to go through a few drive cycles before the ECU figures out throttle settings.
 

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2000 Subaru Outback Limited Sedan, 2.5L
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163 Posts
It's issues like this which prompt me to keep my 2000 Legacy running as long as possible. My biggest concern after replacing the battery is resetting my stored radio stations! :grin2:
 

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2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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14,464 Posts
My Clarion keeps the radio stations stored with the battery out for days. The car was stored without a battery for about a year and the Clarion kept the memory.

On the stalling: If your old battery measured at 10V, did they check the alternator output when they checked the battery? And has anyone checked the alternator output with the new battery?

It may also be as simple as a loose ground, or one with corrosion build up within the cable insulation. Do you live in a humid environment? Salty air?
 

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2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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26,308 Posts
if inspecting what napa sold and if it was a "good" one,...you can also read up on better choices in size, (CCA/reserve capacity)

2013 marks the dawn of the FB25, and subaru putting crappy batteries in, and odd recharge schemes aimed at high mpg.

we have these sticky threads in gen4
https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/104-gen-4-2010-2014/43293-gen4-bigger-battery-group-size.html

and this thread in gen5
https://www.subaruoutback.org/forum...5-replacing-original-lame-battery-better.html

(gen 5 has more activity as there are more years effected).
 

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2008 Outback Base, 2.5, automatic in Granny Gold
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I've had this happen on my 01 legacy and my wife's 08 impreza. After I cleaned out the throttle body a bit, it started fine and kept the idle. My understanding is that the computer adjusted the throttle settings to account for the buildup and it was too big of an adjustment for the computer to learn once you reset it. Cleaning the throttle body just involved removing the air intake box at the throttle body and using an old toothbrush, some carb cleaner, paper towels and q-tips while lifting the throttle plate. I also sprayed the MAF with some MAF cleaner too.

Now, I wipe down the inside of the throttle body everytime I replace a battery.

Ultimately, I think this is a problem with the intake pulling too much oil from the PCV or contaminants through the air filter. After this, I actually switched from a K&N to a premium paper filter. I installed a new OEM PCV too. I was thinking about installing a catch can which should keep it pretty clean, but haven't gotten around to it yet.
 

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07' Outback LLB
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It may also be as simple as a loose ground, or one with corrosion build up within the cable insulation. Do you live in a humid environment? Salty air?
I wouldn't think the car would stall just from a loose ground?? We had a bad terminal that wasn't making connection on ours and the car would randomly go dead, but never while driving or "on." Perhaps we just lucked out though. Was a strange issue as the terminal looked perfect.
 

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2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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I wouldn't think the car would stall just from a loose ground?? We had a bad terminal that wasn't making connection on ours and the car would randomly go dead, but never while driving or "on." Perhaps we just lucked out though. Was a strange issue as the terminal looked perfect.
There is the ground from the battery, yes. But also, there are several ground lugs throughout the front half of the car. These grounds are interconnected to the ignition circuit, charging system, AC, accessories, etc.. All the grounds lead back to the battery in one way or another, like the harness inside the car is grounded to the body and metal frame of the dash, which in turn is connected to the battery by different cabling. If there is a loose or corroded connection under the dash, you lose conductance and things shut off or act erratic. This is just an example to illustrate my point. Any poor ground connected to the ignition or fueling system can create problems such as the OP is experiencing. If everything had direct connection to the battery, it would be easier, but alas, that would cost too much to build.

If the system is not setting diagnostic codes, then that indicates an issue outside the realm of the ECM's ability to track. Like when you shut off the ignition, the ECM loses power to run the car, things shut down, but it doesn't see an error with this. So whatever is happening is not in error as far as the ECM is concerned. That's why I suggest looking into the grounding and battery positive feed to the car.
 

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2013 Outback 2.5 manual
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Discussion Starter #13
So it's been several days since I made this post. I wasnt able to do anything to the vehicle that night and drove it the next day to work again. To my surprise it did seem to improve (only stalled once and the idle rpms were a bit higher). I decided to wait and not do anything and it improved more to the point where after about 3 days it seems to be back to normal.

As a side note I have an oil leak problem that prompted me to make an appointment with my mechanic so I plan to mention it to him when I take it in in about another week.
 

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2013 Outback 2.5 manual
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Discussion Starter #14
if inspecting what napa sold and if it was a "good" one,...you can also read up on better choices in size, (CCA/reserve capacity)

2013 marks the dawn of the FB25, and subaru putting crappy batteries in, and odd recharge schemes aimed at high mpg.

The battery napa sold me is NBP7525 - NAPA LEGEND GROUP 25 625 CCA. Any good?
 
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