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2009 OB 2.5i 4EAT
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301 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey folks,

I should just get a new car at this point :grin2:

So the PS fluid leak I thought was from a pressure line is from the input shaft dust seal. And it seems to have gotten worse.

FSM suggests: "The oil seal is damaged. Replace the valve assembly with a new part." and "Damaged gasket or oil seal - Replace the problem parts."

A new OEM 'valve assembly' is about $120. But it looks like I need some specialized parts and would essentially be rebuidling it.

I don't think I want to mess with rebuilding a rack. And with all the problems I've been having with my steering, I'm ready to throw money at the problem to get a quick fix, so I think replacing the entire rack is likely the way to go. However I'm not willing to drop the $700 for new OEM.


Any suggestions for which reman to go for? I'd feel weird about getting a junk yard rack.
 

Master Caster
馃枻馃挃馃挋 3 Beautiful OBXTs
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Registered
2009 OB 2.5i 4EAT
Joined
301 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No ...

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums.../315850-gen3-steering-gear-differences-2.html

I think it's hit or miss, or I just experienced a really bad run of remans out of Napa. I went through like...(4) of them. I think they all come from Cardone.
Interesting you went with the Legacy rack, I didn't think of that option.

I hear ya on the reman. I'm gonna take the gamble... I really can't stomach forking out $700.

I might try out Rack Doctor. I've found as much feedback as I could, and the racks seem to be good quality... just his customer service seems suspect at times.
 

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2009 OB 2.5i 4EAT
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301 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I did one out of NAPA 5 years ago and its been solid every since. I think even when I did mine there were the rumors of bad rebuilds out there, but mine has been solid.
I'll give ya $20 for it :grin2:

I think that just reinforces the reality of rebuilds, some are good an some are dudes. Thanks for the firsthand account.
 

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2005 OBXT Limited, VF37, STI intake, 5MT
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car-part.com

I would go with a good, used one. A fraction of a new one (and reman), and it's rare that they leak from that spot.

You can replace the seal for the valve assembly, but you are, essentially, doing a full tear-down.
 

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2009 OB 2.5i 4EAT
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
car-part.com

I would go with a good, used one. A fraction of a new one (and reman), and it's rare that they leak from that spot.
Everyone here is very pro-junkyard! The PS pump I got was from a junker, and it seems to work fine but has a persistent whine that won't go away- which may be from the air in system but the old one I replaced wasn't whining. As a result, I'm feeling somewhat hesitant regarding this option.


Any tips for getting quality picks? Any items that are not good options?
 

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2005 OBXT Limited, VF37, STI intake, 5MT
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Everyone here is very pro-junkyard! The PS pump I got was from a junker, and it seems to work fine but has a persistent whine that won't go away- which may be from the air in system but the old one I replaced wasn't whining. As a result, I'm feeling somewhat hesitant regarding this option.


Any tips for getting quality picks? Any items that are not good options?
The whine is probably the inlet tube o-ring sucking air, common with age.

I tend to like LKQ's network. They back up the parts and generally don't pull junk. If you can find a place local that will let you inspect first, dry boots, clean external lines, and inner tie rods that don't flop around like a hound's ears. Try to avoid front-end wrecks. Sometimes the damage is more subtle than most yards can detect.

But generally, Subaru OE parts are high quality and do not need regular replacement. That's usually why the parts are cheap like power steering pumps, racks, knuckles, rear diffs, etc.
 

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2009 OB 2.5i 4EAT
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301 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You can replace with a 2015 STI steering rack, which has better turn ratio.
Interesting, I saw found your post/ the thread! Unfortunately I can't seem to find any from a yard, and I can't afford to shell out the $650 new.

How long did it take to swap the racks?

I'm stuck between a junker, cheap reman(likely BBB), and a Maval reman... The difficulty will inform which way I decide to go I suppose. If it isn't terrible I'd likely start first with a junkyard.

You also have me thinking if there are any other more current racks that will fit. A newer model junkyard piece would boost my confidence on that route.
 

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I found a sti rack out of a wrecked sti on craigslist and only paid $300 for it. The install isn't that hard. It took me about 3hrs. I would suggest buying or renting the tie rod tool that is the long tube style. I got mine from Harbor freitght for like $30. You will also need jack stands, it's much easier to take the front wheels off to get this out, then tryign to do it on ramps.
 

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2009 OB 2.5i 4EAT
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hey guys, threw in the junkyard rack today. Not a terrible job, but def a two person job, and not smart to start before an expected rain storm. That was fun!..

In any case, nothing seems to be leaking, I think I got all the air out.

However the steering tends to react strongly to bumps (like, it moves from them, sort of bounces left to right). The steering isn't difficult, but it almost seems like there is not enough hydraulic pressure? Belt tension seems good, however I"m worried I may have gotten some grease on the pulley when I was hand turning it.

Second, my traction control is stuck off. Pressing the button doesn't do anything.

I'm getting an alignment tomorrow morning- could that be causing the traction control issue?


EDIT: Looks like the fact that my steering wheel is slightly off is causing the issue. If it's fixed via alignment, would this rememdy it? Looks like it's related to the steering angle sensor.
 

Master Caster
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You need to bleed it some more. This should be done with the wheels in the air, going slowing to full lock. You need to let the system settle doen in between foamy sessions in the reservoir. It can take a while. It will eventually self bleed, but it's tough. The system has to go to full lock.

BTW, I can change a rack in my sleep almost, solo. !st time can be a pita, especially outside.
 

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2009 OB 2.5i 4EAT
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I've gone through the bleeding procedure, maybe I'll give it some time and go through it again.

---

VDC issue is C0071... steering angle sensor is off I think. Well, I know it's off. When I go straight the wheel is cocked right. I disconnected the battery to see if it does it, but looks like I'll get the alignment tomorrow morning then go to Subaru when I can to get the sensor reset/recalibrated (requires the SSM).
 

On the Super Mod Squad
2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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I've gone through the bleeding procedure, maybe I'll give it some time and go through it again.

---

VDC issue is C0071... steering angle sensor is off I think. Well, I know it's off. When I go straight the wheel is cocked right. I disconnected the battery to see if it does it, but looks like I'll get the alignment tomorrow morning then go to Subaru when I can to get the sensor reset/recalibrated (requires the SSM).
that is the 2nd C0071 code I read here on this forum today.

I wonder how much subaru dealers charge for that, vs. a subaru specialty shop.

I have had a VDC car since march of 2002, never needed anything.
 

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2009 OB 2.5i 4EAT
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I wonder how much subaru dealers charge for that, vs. a subaru specialty shop.

I have had a VDC car since march of 2002, never needed anything.
Will a Subaru shop have a SSM unit? I thought only dealers. I guess I'll have to call one up.

I think my issue is caused by bad alignment of the wheel and steering rack. I have some fears of damage because my dad rotated the wheel two full turns while disengaged ( then un rotated it), but I think 3+ is when you risk destroying clock spring and sensors.
 

On the Super Mod Squad
2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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Will a Subaru shop have a SSM unit? I thought only dealers. I guess I'll have to call one up.

I think my issue is caused by bad alignment of the wheel and steering rack. I have some fears of damage because my dad rotated the wheel two full turns while disengaged ( then un rotated it), but I think 3+ is when you risk destroying clock spring and sensors.
subaru specialty shops should have them, or the similar aftermarket versions.

like the mechanics that have more then 10 subarus outside for sale. call and ask.

but I wonder if the problem you are having will be fixed when you get a alignment and the steering wheel trued up to where it should be. (just clear the codes, after the alignment work, and see if it comes back)
 

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2009 OB 2.5i 4EAT
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
subaru specialty shops should have them, or the similar aftermarket versions.

like the mechanics that have more then 10 subarus outside for sale. call and ask.

but I wonder if the problem you are having will be fixed when you get a alignment and the steering wheel trued up to where it should be. (just clear the codes, after the alignment work, and see if it comes back)
Can I clear the codes from the dash? I have a code reader but it doesn't recognize anything, I had to pick up the code from the dash. I'd be surprised if it fixed it, but worth a shot.


------
Alignment fixed a bunch of the craziness when hitting bumps, but it's still wonky when hitting bumps while cornering, and it's strangely hard to steer when going straight. Once this rain relents I'll get to purging some air, I make have to cook up a method to apply vacuum.
 

Master Caster
馃枻馃挃馃挋 3 Beautiful OBXTs
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Alignment fixed a bunch of the craziness when hitting bumps, but it's still wonky when hitting bumps while cornering, and it's strangely hard to steer when going straight. Once this rain relents I'll get to purging some air, I make have to cook up a method to apply vacuum.
This just doesn't sound right. Doesn't your alignment shop road test?
 

On the Super Mod Squad
2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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Can I clear the codes from the dash? I have a code reader but it doesn't recognize anything, I had to pick up the code from the dash. I'd be surprised if it fixed it, but worth a shot.


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Alignment fixed a bunch of the craziness when hitting bumps, but it's still wonky when hitting bumps while cornering, and it's strangely hard to steer when going straight. Once this rain relents I'll get to purging some air, I make have to cook up a method to apply vacuum.
I don't have a 2005-2009.

but read / re-read this sticky thread:
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...9-how-read-diagnostic-trouble-codes-dtcs.html

______

but something does not sound correct if you have such problems after a alignment.

like the aliment computer is stuck on "legacy", or "impreza outback sport" ,...and NOT the "legacy outback wagon" you have.
___


or something is worn / broken / bent / installed wrong, and no one including the alignment people are noticing it.

2005-2009 legacy outback wagons need to be right on perfect though. or they feel sloppy:

@traildogck has a lifetime alignment agreement with Firestone? and only lets one technician do it, ...and even then takes the car home and checks the bolts for hand tightness to see if any just oddly loosened up from the short drive home.
 
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