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2000 Subaru Outback Limited, Manual Transmission
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Discussion Starter #3
battery cables, wires, grounds. (clean em up, re-seat or replace)
I'll take a look, but I just replaced the corroded terminals about a month ago and cleaned everything up. The stereo though?

Oddly enough, I did pop the hood today and added water. But that's literally all I did. The hood hasn't been popped since I replaced those terminals. Hmmmm
 

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2002 Pair: 3.0 VDC Wag & 2.5 Limited Sedan
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I'll take a look, but I just replaced the corroded terminals about a month ago and cleaned everything up. The stereo though?

Oddly enough, I did pop the hood today and added water. But that's literally all I did. The hood hasn't been popped since I replaced those terminals. Hmmmm

Were you adding distilled water to the radiator or distilled water to the battery???

maybe the terminal leads are not seated enough, and are wiggling loose, or were not good enough.

what you are talking about is like you yanked one of the battery cables off the battery or one of the leads, like on purpose to clear something.

= when someone pops the battery leads off to do any work you loose the mileage saved in the trip computer, and the radio settings.

be sure to check for the single wires leading back to the firewall from the battery.

hopefully it is just something simple that you did recently, or a battery going bad.

(vs. the other alternative, = dampness making fuse box and under the dash corrosion, which I have played in other cars,...but if it were that every Gen2 would be complaining here).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I don't think you're understanding. I know if you disconnect the battery you lose radio presets and mileage. But that's not what I'm talking about. Every time I turn the car off it zeros out. Every time.

I was adding water to the radiator. I didn't touch anything else.

I'm not seeing how the battery would make the stereo not work. My battery is going out, but there's no issues with lights or anything else when the car is off and I've got the key to accessory. And there's no starting issues either. And the stereo wouldn't be running off the battery while the engine is running.

I replaced a bulb socket for the taillight yesterday after this happened. Later that evening I noticed my dome/map lights don't work. I'll have to check fuses again. But my footwell lighting works (which is on it's own constant hot circuit).
 

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The radio, clock and the trip meter all make use of power sources that are on all the time. Take the clock, for example; it has to continue to run even when the car is shut down. The clock has two sources of power. The always-on, and a second power source that comes on when the key is at ACC or ON. Both are needed. If the always-on power fails, the clock will light up and run when the key is turned to ACC or ON because the second source of power comes on, but the clock time will be reset because it wasn't running when the key was at OFF. The trip meter is the same.

The radio also uses two power sources, but the always-on source not only is used to maintain the radio presets, it's also used to power part of the radio circuitry when it's on as well. So with the always-on power lost, the presets go and the radio doesn't work.

The radio and clock/trip meter always-on source is from fuse #2 (15 Amps) in the engine compartment fuse box.

Did you check the fuse for continuity? Is there 12 V on both sides of the fuse when it's plugged in?

Is anything else, that should work when the key is out, not working. Check, for example, the ceiling lights, the map lights and the security/keyless entry horn.
 

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Tough.

Fuse #2 (engine compartment) powers:

Luggage room light
Room light
Security control module
Security horn relay
Spot light
Step light
Trunk room light
Auto A/C control module
Combination meter (instrument panel)
Radio

Of course, the problem could be a broken or worn wire that's in contact with ground, rather than one of the devices powered by the fuse.

Have a multi-meter?

The fuse plugs into the two-blade fuse holder. One terminal is connected to the battery, so it always has 12 V on it. The other terminal (with the fuse out, of course) should have no voltage.

Use the multi-meter to measure the Resistance (Ohms) between the un-powered terminal and ground. Presumably it is very low -- that's what's blowing the fuse. You could then sequentially disconnect the devices that the fuse powers (at each of their main connectors) to see if that restores the resistance to a more normal level. It's not a quick and dirty approach, and will require patience to go through all the possibilities.

Important: Was the car worked on recently? Any modifications, non-factory accessories? Consider anything that might have involved wiring and electrical devices.

Wish there was a quick answer, but I don't have it . . . .
 

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2000 Subaru Outback Limited, Manual Transmission
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Discussion Starter #11
Tough.

Fuse #2 (engine compartment) powers:

Luggage room light
Room light
Security control module
Security horn relay
Spot light
Step light
Trunk room light
Auto A/C control module
Combination meter (instrument panel)
Radio

Of course, the problem could be a broken or worn wire that's in contact with ground, rather than one of the devices powered by the fuse.

Have a multi-meter?

The fuse plugs into the two-blade fuse holder. One terminal is connected to the battery, so it always has 12 V on it. The other terminal (with the fuse out, of course) should have no voltage.

Use the multi-meter to measure the Resistance (Ohms) between the un-powered terminal and ground. Presumably it is very low -- that's what's blowing the fuse. You could then sequentially disconnect the devices that the fuse powers (at each of their main connectors) to see if that restores the resistance to a more normal level. It's not a quick and dirty approach, and will require patience to go through all the possibilities.

Important: Was the car worked on recently? Any modifications, non-factory accessories? Consider anything that might have involved wiring and electrical devices.

Wish there was a quick answer, but I don't have it . . . .
Thanks!

Yeah, I replaced the taillight bulbs socket that day. I did blow a fuse while working on it (I was using a bulb instead of a multi-meter, yeah... not the way to do it). But that's a different circuit than what is shorted.

Trunk light though... that could be it. I have some leads run that aren't hooked up to anything yet. I could have something touching that shouldn't be.
 

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The radio, clock and the trip meter all make use of power sources that are on all the time. Take the clock, for example; it has to continue to run even when the car is shut down. The clock has two sources of power. The always-on, and a second power source that comes on when the key is at ACC or ON. Both are needed. If the always-on power fails, the clock will light up and run when the key is turned to ACC or ON because the second source of power comes on, but the clock time will be reset because it wasn't running when the key was at OFF. The trip meter is the same.

The radio also uses two power sources, but the always-on source not only is used to maintain the radio presets, it's also used to power part of the radio circuitry when it's on as well. So with the always-on power lost, the presets go and the radio doesn't work.

The radio and clock/trip meter always-on source is from fuse #2 (15 Amps) in the engine compartment fuse box.

Did you check the fuse for continuity? Is there 12 V on both sides of the fuse when it's plugged in?

Is anything else, that should work when the key is out, not working. Check, for example, the ceiling lights, the map lights and the security/keyless entry horn.
Thanks for the information, the #2 fuse under the hood was my problem. The mechanic replaced it in the wrong place, I simply replaced it and problem solved,
 
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